Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Regency 250 fan quit

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Alright, got her on the work bench and opened up. First thing I did is pull the two wires for the fan. One wire goes to TP2 (I think it’s TP2, it’s on the right side of the machine by the diodes) and the other to CB1. 6.8 ohms across those two wires.

    But, when I pulled the wire off TP2 (or what I currently believe to be TP2) the whole connector came off TP2. See the attached picture.
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #17
      That Fast-On connector looks like it's been pretty warm but the brass terminal itself looks OK in the picture. Is that connection just a hollow end rivet that was peened over (apparently not well enough)? May be able to reconnect it. Might have been a bad connection there that was causing the problem all along, or could be a red herring. I have fixed a number of "very obvious" problems like that over the years that turned out to just be a distraction from the real problem. But, we can hope it's just that easy in this case! :-)

      Comment


      • #18
        All the terminals are pretty corroded. That part number is 086323. $181.50 from miller parts. I have to get that assembly out to get the thermostat out of there, it’s riveted in. I’ll have to see if there are any numbers on there and try to match it up with something off the shelf. There are three wires on one side and two on the other side of it.

        If I have to get this assembly out, I may as well replace that thermowhatchacallit. Probably replace CB1 too while I’m at it.

        The ohms on that motor seem ok? A little lower than what John had mentioned.

        Comment


        • #19
          Ryan, that is probably a good resistance for that motor. My number was a little high and based on some other fans I have. Anything other than open or zero is a good sign. Those thermostats are usually pretty easy to find, a 250V 10A one should do, though you'd have to figure out the right temperature. A $186 thermostat seems high to me. You could always bypass the thermostat and run the fan all the time. It's definitely worth replacing CB1 since it's already tripped twice at least.
          Last edited by jjohn76; 05-19-2020, 09:46 PM.

          Comment


          • #20
            I punched in the part number into eBay, there’s listing for one for an xmt 300, but the part number is the same, for $60. A lot cheaper and I don’t have to spend a lot of time hunting one down. I know miller doesn’t make the part, so I’m going to get it out of there and see if there are any numbers on it first.

            I thought about powering the fan to run all the time, but there are four other wires in this thermostat and I don’t have any idea what else it controls. I figure it’s probably best to put it back the way I found it and hope, like Wayne said, that this is the only problem up in there.

            It appears to be a very simple machine inside, which I like. I figure all the complicated components are jammed into that WC-24.

            Comment


            • #21
              Got’er out. The numbers on it are as follows.

              Stenco
              430-1549
              FM125
              N.O.
              086323
              9409

              That’s a lot of different numbers.

              I’m unclear on the part number now.

              The book says it’s TP3, Miller part number 006334, but now I’m confused. That component is supposed to be NC, this part is clearly labeled NO. This part came out of position 11 on the diagram.

              Any clarity someone can share will be well received.
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #22
                That her home.
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #23
                  I think I have it figured out. There are two thermal switches on the diode assembly, TP2 and TP3. TP2 is Find No. 11 on the picture on page 21 of the manual OM-293, which should be the correct book for your welder. TP2 is the NO switch, and is on the right side of the assembly as you look at the picture in the book, which looks like the one you took out. So NO is correct for TP2. TP3 is Find No. 13, and is on the other side of the assembly. It is a NC switch. If you look at the schematic, that makes sense since TP3 is in series with the solenoid of the main contactor W. If the diodes get hot, TP3 opens up, preventing W from energizing, and allowing the machine to cool down despite the best efforts of the operator to toast it. TP2 is NO, and closes when the diodes warm up, starting the fan. So, you are replacing TP2, not TP3. Don't have time now to chase the part number, but if the specs can be found, thermal switches are not that hard to locate. Should be able to get it from any major electronics parts supplier once the parameters are known.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    If I was guessing, I'd guess it's designed to close at 125° F, based on the numbers. Stenco has (of course) been bought out.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Thanks Wayne. Always good to bounce stuff off someone that knows stuff. The picture here is of the book that came with the welder, not saying it’s the right one, it’s OM-293D. Clearly TP2 & 3 are flopped on this one. But it’s pretty clear what’s correct when the part number is printed on the part I took out. I wonder why the discrepancy? Probably an error on my part, but my serial number is included in this series of manual. Doesn’t matter, I think you’ve confirmed my problem and no sense in over analyzing things. This manual doesn’t list the specs on this thermostat, wonder if maybe miller tech support will give it to me even though it’s still an active part number in their system. I can get the tech manual for this machine but it’s $50 and will take a week to get here.

                      Thanks for all the help!
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        The manual I have.
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          the manual thing is kind of crazy. 293D with the same date is the one I got from the web site, but apparently there are different pages in it. However, this one makes sense with what you found in the welder.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            At least it’s not boring!

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Ryan, I have received part specs from Miller Tech plenty of times. It's worth a call. That said, it doesn't seem to me like that was the reason for the CB failing. It's worth doing a resistance check across the leads involved with TP2 and the fan. There is another thermostat, TP1 that's connected to the transformer and does the same thing Wayne mentioned above for TP2. I don't think it's worth the technical manual for that machine.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                While I have it apart, I think it’s smart to check everything I can. Do you have any further guidance on that?

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X