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  • Regency 250 fan quit

    Regency 250 s/n KE686289.

    Welding yesterday, fan never came on, CB1 tripped. Let her sit, CB1 reset, 15” of weld later CB1 trips again, fan still not coming on.

    Pulled the side panel and put a fan blowing into the machine and finished the job.

    I have the owner’s manual but not the tech manual. I wouldn’t make a pimple on the backside of you electrical circuit guys and know when to reach out for advice before I spin my wheels for a week on the wrong stuff.

    Any advice where to start?

    The fan motor spins easily by hand and seems to be in good shape. Other than that, the thermostat connections by the diodes do have some corrosion on them. The manual lists a 3rd thermostat but I can’t find it.

  • #2
    Ryan, what is the resistance across your fan? TP3 is the second thermostat on your rectifier, in line with your output contactor. What feeder (Spoolmatic?) are you running on it, and I am guessing it is powered through the remote socket? CB1 limits current through your 115V circuit, which is the fan, the output contactor, and possibly the feeder (if it's 115V feeder). Has CB1 only tripped when your feeder is going? If CB1 is tripping as it warms, it could be that either the fan windings are shorted (check resistance across the fan), CB1 is worn out and needs to be replaced, or the fan and feeder combined are drawing too much current, probably in that order. CB1 is rated to 5A and is pretty common if the fan resistance checks ok (double digits, probably somewhere between 15 and 40 ohms would be my guess, higher is ok).

    Hope this helps,
    Jon

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    • #3
      Hey Jon. I’m at the fire house today, but I’ll be at the machine shop tomorrow and can check it then.

      I was running a 30a with the WC-24. Ive combined forced with this shop and this machine is new to me. The guy that had it said he doesn’t recall the fan ever coming on. He never welded aluminum with it, just off and on steel through that spool gun. Seems like a waste to me. I also need this power source for the s-22 feeder I recently got.

      I was going through the wiring diagram in the user’s manual and looking for parts to see the availability if I need them. From miller, TP3 and contactor W ain’t cheap.

      Comment


      • #4
        Ryan, I don't think the contactor or TP3 are the issue, but if you ever need replacement, it's probably best to match the contactor with another one. It's a 60a three phase contactor with copper E shaped links to run the three contactors in parallel. I replaced one on my CP-300 for much less than the Miller price, and that machine went back into a structural fab shop last year still without issues. If the contactor isn't humming, it's probably good for a while if you blow out the machine every so often. If it is the fan, that fan's part number is the same one listed for a MM200, which is likely a Dayton fan available for $55-$75. Here's a thread from back in January with the details on the fan:

        https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/...n-motor-repair

        It's probably worth replacing CB1 anyways. You can search the specs listed in the operator manual to get a replacement for pretty cheap.

        A buddy who has a ran a lot of different industrial inverters over time still runs and likes the Regency 250 the most, especially for short arc.

        Jon
        Last edited by jjohn76; 05-17-2020, 11:48 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the info Jon. You think a bad CB1 would cause the fan to not come on? When it pops, the machine has to sit for a while before it’ll reset. Like I said, the previous owner doesn’t ever remember the fan running, but he also didn’t use it much as far as I can tell. I don’t think he was the original owner either.

          Comment


          • #6
            Ryan, the more times CB1 trips, the less it takes to trip it again. We don't know what caused it to trip before, because it could have been the fan or a previous bad or miswired feeder. It's transferring enough current to close the output relay (small current), but seems to me it's tripping when TP1 or TP2 close, connecting the fan to the 115V circuit (fan motor turns on when either the transformer or rectifier get hot enough and why you need to let it cool before you can reset it). The resistance across the fan will tell you if there is a problem with the fan or wiring between the TP1/TP2 and the fan (leads 40 and 33). It still could be that the fan is good but CB1 is so weak from tripping too many times that it can't handle the fan's surge current.

            Comment


            • #7
              Tell you what I’m going to do. Tomorrow morning when I get off duty I’m going to go grab that machine and take it back to my shop, that way I have all my tools and can better address this stuff.

              Thanks for the help, Jon.

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              • #8
                Ryan, Circuit breakers tend to weaken the more they trip.

                Most are a thermal strip or something of the sort and due to the overload of amperage, it heats it up and it springs to another position, you can always check something simply, when it trips, put your hand over the breaker and feel if it's really hot, a thermal imager works too.

                How you been otherwise?
                if there's a welder, there's a way

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey Oli....glad you poked your head back around here...

                  I’m going to invest the time into this machine to make sure it’s running properly. I need it to run properly in that shop. So, finding out why the dadgum fan doesn’t run is probably the key to that. Hopefully I’ll have a little more to go on tomorrow sometime.

                  Otherwise been busy at the fire house and busy in the shop. Combined with a machinist to make a full on job shop. We’ve actually had quite a bit of work too. What about you, Oli?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I poke back around here regularly, just not a lot of subjects I can help with.

                    I can understand that, I would think that checking your A draw on the breaker and seeing if it exceeds the rating would make sense as a first step as well, they DO go bad these darn breakers.

                    Good to hear you've been busy, I've been busy as well, not as much welding as I used to do but still enough to keep the burns on my arm fresh enough to be annoying.

                    Helga still kicking?
                    if there's a welder, there's a way

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Oh ya, she breaths. Her HF isn’t as steady as I need and I don’t have time to crack her open when I have other equipment that works as well. I mainly use her for stick welding. I love using her for stick welding. One of these days I’ll have to get down to business and see what’s happening in there. I used her to weld up an aluminum boat trailer a few weeks ago though. The foot pedal feels a little wonky so that may have something to do with it.

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                      • #12
                        Good to hear, I've had some odd stuff happen when my foot pedal on my Dynasty 200 was acting up, was just a messed up wire and I got it fixed but it did some off stuff.

                        Had an odd problem the other day stick welding some rails into a trailer for a mod project, on a seam between 3/8" angle steel and 1/4" plate I could not for the life of me get the rod to run, the arc was all over the place and it just wouldn't run. I summed it up to all the small metal particles between the 2 confusing the arc.

                        Just throwing that out there for no good reason.
                        if there's a welder, there's a way

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                        • #13
                          Not an expert and I'm sure others know better but why not disconnect the fan and run outside
                          voltage to it to see if it works? You can also hook a meter to it to see what it draws while running.
                          MM250
                          Trailblazer 250g
                          22a feeder
                          Lincoln ac/dc 225
                          Victor O/A
                          MM200 black face
                          Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
                          Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
                          Arco roto-phase model M
                          Vectrax 7x12 band saw
                          Miller spectrum 875
                          30a spoolgun w/wc-24
                          Syncrowave 250
                          RCCS-14

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                          • #14
                            Hopefully I can give that a try today. My list of needs is already growing, but I have to swing by the machine shop first off this morning anyway, so I’ll toss it in the back of the Jeep and get it over to my shop and crack her open. Thanks for the replies, I’ll follow up with what I find today and, most certainly, what else I’ll need help with once I get in there.

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                            • #15
                              Didn’t have a second to even think about a broken regency today. I know you guys are on the edge of your seat....it is pretty exciting though.

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