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Mig Wire Feeds as Soon as 12RC Suitcase is Powered Up

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  • Mig Wire Feeds as Soon as 12RC Suitcase is Powered Up

    My 12RC Powered by Regency 250 feeds full speed as soon as I power on> Cleaned the Roughneck 300 Gun and opened the switch housing and cleaned the micro switch contacts still feeding non stop, is this the P1 motor board failure?

  • #2
    I just acquired a feeder that I run on my regency 250. If the two wire lead on the gun is reversed, it does a wonky slow feed after you let off the trigger. I was made aware of that by the fine gentleman that set me up with it and it turned out to be a very helpful hint. That’s probably not much help, but maybe it is. But that’s all I got man.

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    • #3
      Thank you, yes the trigger wires can be swapped and it has had an effect in performance previously, this is a different issue now> Thank you for your contribution

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      • #4
        Have you checked with an ohmmeter with power off to see if the switch is stuck shut or some wires may be shorted together?

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        • #5
          Does it feed if you power it up with the gun unplugged? Does it always feed full speed regardless of the control knob? If neither, there's a short in the gun. If the first but not the second, there's probably a problem in the input side of the control board. If both, there's probably a problem in the output side of the control board.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
            Have you checked with an ohmmeter with power off to see if the switch is stuck shut or some wires may be shorted together?
            Yes, I checked the continuity of the two wires through the gun and found open when the switch was not depressed and full continuity when depressed or closed numerous times.
            Last edited by Houston IV; 05-09-2020, 04:50 PM.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Bushytails View Post
              Does it feed if you power it up with the gun unplugged? Does it always feed full speed regardless of the control knob? If neither, there's a short in the gun. If the first but not the second, there's probably a problem in the input side of the control board. If both, there's probably a problem in the output side of the control board.
              The motor is full speed as soon as the power is on whether the gun is installed or not. My next step is to pull the motor board and inspect for any noticeable defects or soot. I cannot find a schematic of the board just wires in and wires out on the operator's manual.

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              • #8
                I'm with Bushytails--guessing there is a shorted driver in the motor controller, or something forcing it to full on. Might be possible to isolate even without a schematic if you know someone who can do circuit board repair.

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                • #9
                  I'd start by looking for whatever looks like a big transistor near the motor output connector, and checking it and parts near it. That may not be the problem, of course, but it's where I'd start, and work outwards from there.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
                    I'm with Bushytails--guessing there is a shorted driver in the motor controller, or something forcing it to full on. Might be possible to isolate even without a schematic if you know someone who can do circuit board repair.
                    I have repaired boards before if the conduit is melted I have chased it down and removed/replaced by 22 G wire then tracking the reason. New boards are $500.00!

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                    • #11
                      Might be board failure.

                      But my personal favorite welder is Miller Maxstar 150 STL which I got last year and working super cool til now.

                      Last edited by aametalmaster; 05-09-2020, 06:20 PM. Reason: removed spam

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                      • #12
                        Go the the Manuals database on this site--SUPPORT at the top of this page, then MANUALS AND PARTS. Put in your serial number in the box at the left on the bottom and see if you get a hit. If not, put in the specific model name in the box at the right, and then find your serial number in the list of hits. Let us know what manual is correct.

                        Have you verified the JOG switch is not stuck closed/wiring shorted?

                        Can't say much else without knowing what specific machine you have--several options in the database. From looking at a random manual for a random configuration I picked, first thing I would do after verifying the JOG switch is unplug the connector between the trigger hold board and the motor control board and see if it stops. Turn power off, of course, before unplugging. Not knowing how this circuit works, that may or may not prove anything but it would at least be a datapoint. Maybe one of the techs that has access to the drawings will be able to give some better direction. But I would start out just like Bushytails said. If you understand circuit functions, take a look starting at the biggest transistor/FET/SCR --whatever they use to drive the motor--near where the wires leave the board for the motor, test it, and work backwards from there. Also look for any overheated/burned components on any of the boards.

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                        • #13
                          Jog feeds at the speed set with the knob... if it's ignoring the knob, it's not the jog switch.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Bushytails View Post
                            Jog feeds at the speed set with the knob... if it's ignoring the knob, it's not the jog switch.
                            I agree, I followed the jog circuit not the issue, actually has no effect open or closed, I have the board out and will look at it tomorrow Thank you

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                            • #15
                              I found out it was Mother's Day in time to get flowers, and make a decent brunch for the wife and son. After the honey do list i examined the motor board. It is now obvious that the board is BER. There is a mid-sized diode at position Q3 with connection G,D and S that is melted. I am certain that I cannot replace this component on my own. Miller Electric has the updated motor board at $500.00 which is $125.00 less than Ebay or Amazon. My unit is s/n LE184480 the existing (failed) board is labeled LE 17 p/n 212193> Miller has the updated 236696 unit in stock looks like I have to bite the bullet and pay the piper. I do not have an idea why it burned out, The electric part is non refundable, I will have to clean and test every wire and connection

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