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Syncrowave 180 HD Troubleshooting

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  • #16
    Thanks for the heads up, Wayne. All I currently have is a DMM anyway. I have a feeling this repair will be beyond my skill set. He sent me a couple of blurry pictures of what looks like some parts that fried, but it’s always worth a look in case it’s something I can repair. Kind of like Provincial’s machine here, may as well take a look and see if there’s something obvious.


    • #17
      Sorry that is has been so long in replying. I got busy and just got back to this project.

      I purchased a capacitor through Ebay. It is a "doorknob" type, 10KV, 2000 PK, ceramic, with 6mm female threaded terminals. It came from China, so it didn't cost much. I attached some leads so I could test it.

      I disconnected the old capacitor at the points and the output transformer. This allowed me to connect the test capacitor without modifying any part of the machine. I then reset the points to the recommended 0.012" gap.

      I set up the machine for TIG, electrode negative and tried it out on some clean steel sheet. It performed like it should!!!!!

      I will try it on some aluminum in AC mode, but expect it will perform well.

      Many thanks to jjohn76 and Aeronca41 for steering me to the C3!! You guys are great!!!!!!

      Now I have to decide if I should build some sort of mount for the China capacitor or buy a Miller 215-779. The best price I see online for the Miller part is $125 plus shipping, but that should be plug-n-play. To mount the China capacitor, I need to figure out how to mount it in a way that protects the terminals and fits in the space occupied by the old one. I should be able to cut the leads off the old part, so the wiring will not need to be changed.

      Has anyone done this before?

      If I buy the Miller part, the China unit can be plugged into another welder to test the C3. Does anyone know if that same C3 part was used in other Miller units? If so, it makes sense to keep it available for others to use in troubleshooting. I only have $23.00 invested in it.


      • #18
        For a hundred bucks difference and the same functionality, I think I'd find a way to mount it, but that's just me.


        • #19
          Areonca41, I took your advice and built a PVC housing to hold the "doorknob" capacitor. I used the old leads, which are silicone insulated, and used one of the original mounting holes.

          I've played around with mild steel and yesterday melted two scraps of 3003-0 aluminum .063 sheet together on the edges. It seems to work well on both AC and DC, so if I can keep the tungsten out of the puddle and away from the rod, I'll be able to weld!

          I first learned to weld using O/A, so this is similar. But the intervening 60 years isn't helping.


          • #20
            Fantastic! Glad it's working for you.

            I have to say, I still think OA is my favorite process, followed by TIG. Learned to weld with OA when I was about 10 years old, probably about the same time you were learning, and it is still just a "captivating" process to me. Unless you're welding something heavy (which I wouldn't do these days since other processes are so much easier--and quieter!), I just love the quietness of it, the more forgiving nature [I never dip the tungsten with OA :-) ], the ability to minutely control the puddle, and the beautiful welds you can get. You can of course do all those things with other processes, but I have to say it's still a favorite.