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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    Originally posted by techron View Post
    Aeronca41, that is what I have finally been doing. I couldn't believe how clean it needs to be compared to mig or gas welding. I believe it now!
    Yep, if I've learned anything by the time I got to this old age, it's that experience is a hard, but very thorough, teacher!

    I still remember the time as a kid that my dad told me to put a glove on before I quenched the red-hot end of a 2' piece of bar stock in a bucket of water. Warned me the heat would travel up to where I was holding it. Naah, how could that be? I learned, and he had a good laugh! That was probably 50-60 years ago, and the lesson has stuck! And, I was more apt to listen to him in the future.
    Last edited by Aeronca41; 03-30-2020, 12:54 PM.

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    You really want to get crazy with cleaning it, use reagent grade acetone. Then you can pretend you’re building parts for the space station or something cool like that.

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  • techron
    replied
    Aeronca41, that is what I have finally been doing. I couldn't believe how clean it needs to be compared to mig or gas welding. I believe it now!

    Leave a comment:


  • Aeronca41
    replied
    Some may consider it overkill, but my goal is to wipe until the rag stays clean. Takes some effort.

    Leave a comment:


  • techron
    replied
    Used the foot pedal some today. It's going to take some getting use to but the more I used it the better I liked it. Have no help and none of my drag racing friends have any experience with it. MMW I am wire brushing the coating off of the tube and wiping it with alcohol. It just seems so hard to get it clean enough. It is oily. The rag turns black when I wipe it down with the alcohol. I feel like I made a little improvement today. Thanks guys for the input.

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  • MMW
    replied
    If you know someone who can tig well see if they can come over for a bit and help you out. If not maybe hire someone for an hour? Will lower the learning curve immensely and also reduce the bad habits you will form learning on your own provided they know what they are doing?

    If the tube has any scale on it, like a black coating, try sanding it off first. Use the foot pedal, need to learn sometime.
    Last edited by MMW; 03-29-2020, 04:18 PM.

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  • techron
    replied
    New equipment (Primeweld 225x) new consumables, er70s-2 . probably mostly the Indian and not the arrows. I think most of my trouble is not keeping the arc short enough. today I find myself lifting it higher and getting some splatter and a funky looking arc. And yes I have stuck the tungsten more times than I want to admit. Thanks for the input.

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  • Electric4Life
    replied
    @LtBadd is probably right on the money
    Sorry I blurted out with the previous reply.
    Mild steel will behave erratic when amperage and/or torch angle is incorrect.
    Try putting a slight bevel on the joint to help guide the puddle.
    Did you learn to drive a car on cruise control? Neither did I. Practice with a foot switch unless chewing gum while walking and maintaining social distancing is too hard.

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  • Electric4Life
    replied
    There's a lot of things that could cause this issue.
    My first question would be to determine the quality and condition of the equipment and materials.
    Are you using well maintained equipment with new material and consumables?
    I could assume you have the ideal set-up but I could also assume you're working outside with a heliarc and scrap metal using coat hangers as filler.
    Reassure us that its NOT the latter.
    Material type. What condition.
    Torch type. Air or water cooled. What condition.
    Tungsten diameter and cup/nozzle size.
    Gas type and CFH. Regulator and hose condition.
    Filler type. New or old.

    If all the variables are correct we can narrow down the technique and resolve the issue and get you running beads in no time.

    Leave a comment:


  • techron
    replied
    The puddle starts to sort of brake up and sputter like there are impurities in the metal. I don't know that there are but that is what is seems like. I probably need a lot more playing around with this thing and trying the pedal etc. It didn't take long for me to find out it's not as easy as they make it look on YouTube! Thanks guys

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  • Ltbadd
    replied
    Given your inexperience, I ask what are you making?

    Why not run some practice beads on plate using the foot pedal and develop your skills, not using the pedal (IMO) will be harder, as the thin wall tube heats you really need to back off a bit on the amps. Using a pedal allows you to manage the heat input.

    As the material over heats the puddle won't flow as well, which is exactly what you're seeing, if too hot it can pull impurities from the back side.

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  • Oldgrandad
    replied
    That setting sounds good. what does it look like when you hit those spots? Is there a lot more stuff floating around the weld pool? Or when you dab more rod it just kind of stacks up and doesn't flow nice.

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  • techron
    replied
    Thanks Oldgrandad. I am running 65 amps with no foot pedal. The puddle will flow well and then it will get to a certain place like there are impurities in the metal. Didn't want to try foot pedal until I feel comfortable running a bead without it. Thanks, again!

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  • Oldgrandad
    replied
    With no other information I would say turn it up. .065 wall steel tube and using a foot pedal I would set amp's between 100 and 125 running the foot pedal around 3/4 throttle.

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  • techron
    started a topic New to tig

    New to tig

    Practicing on 1" .065 wall square steel tubing. It seems I am having trouble getting it clean enough. I wire brush it then wipe it with isopropyl alcohol. I'm using er70s-2 filler rod. It still seems to not flow to well. Ideas?
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