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  • Diversion180 will not power

    Hi guys my name is Brian, I have referencing this forum for sometime but have never posted anything. I have Millermatic 190, a Maxstar 150 that I use mostly for restoring an old ‘59 Chevy truck. Recently I bought a used Diversion 180 on the cheap, that was missing a few accessories and under the premise it may not work. I was able to use the adapter plugs, torch from my maxstar to test the 180. When I go to turn it on though I get nothing, no noise, the display doesn’t come on, nothing. Tried it both on 110 and 220, nothing. Took the cover off, looked inside but there doesn’t seem to be anything that’s burnt or broken, but then again not really sure what to look for or at. I’ve read a lot of the Diversion 180 posts on here and my issue seems similar to a few other posts. Seems like this thing is dead. My plan is to contact Miller on Monday, along with taking the welder to have a service tech take a look at it and see what my options are before I attempt to return it. Any ideas on what could be potentially wrong?

    I could share a few pics of the inside if that is any help to help diagnose what may be wrong. Thanks for any help or comments, I appreciate it. Thanks guys.

  • #2
    Unfortunately, it will likely be very expensive to have it repaired at a service center, with initial troubleshooting labor costs, plus components and repair labor after that. You could be lucky to find the 4-pin connector between the front panel circuit board and the main board on the left (PC1) needed some cleaning and to be re-seated, but this would be better to try yourself. If the seller agrees to take it back, that may be your best bet unless you're willing and able to tear into the machine after getting a technical manual. It will be a project though, on top of your '59 Chevy project.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply John I appreciate it. I will give your suggestion a try. Also called Miller, they said my unit is out if warranty.But according to their serial number chart I believe it should still be covered. I also was able to bring it by an authorized service center. They quoted me $85 just for them to look at it, with a two week turn around time at best before they would get back to me. They also did suggest to check the power switch as those can get burnt sometimes. I opted to have an independent tech take a look at it, they had a shorter turn around time. Ultimately though I don't think its looking too good, probably be sending it back.

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      • #4
        A couple years ago on this forum one of the members posted a fix fr a Miller TIG main board. Don't remember which TIG it was 180 or maybe 200. Anyway I followed the instructions and repaired the welder for my buddy and it stills works today. Don't remember the forum members name but here is what he wrote:

        " I found an old thread of someone who had a similar problem and he published that the shunt winding control circuit was the problem. He replaced all main components in that circuit for under $20. So I thought I would try that route. After discussing this with the EE, the SCR and the FET seemed to be the most likely culprits. There was also an opto coupler that may cause some trouble. So I bought the three new items for Q13, Q11 and OC2 from Digikey (Digikey part #'s S8055MTP, 1RG4PC4OUPBF, TLP748J) for under $20. The conformal coating is a drag, but problem fixed; and for a lot less than $300. It appears that the SCR (item Q13) was most likely the problem component. If you know what to look for, and are confident around electronics, you might want to try it for $18 before you buy a new card. I see this question a lot on many boards so it must be a fairly common problem with a common fix. My take on it is that I don't think the repair people want you to know this info as it would be a loss of easy business for them. Good luck.
        >>>>>>>>>>
        The hall is whacked, find it order a new one and all will be fine."
        Love Them Old Chevys
        www.RustyBowtie.com

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        • #5
          Now that I think about it that specific TIG welder powered on but wouldn't weld...so this previous post may not be helpful.
          Love Them Old Chevys
          www.RustyBowtie.com

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          • #6
            So I’ve had the welder looked at by a local repair shop. They were able to determine that the power cord is good, the power switch is good and they were able to get power up to the board, and that’s were it ended. I assume this would indicate something is wrong with the board? I’m thinking possibly have the board repaired? I’ve read on here somewhere about York Electronics for repairing damaged boards. My other option would be to pick up a new board. I’ve also found out through millers replacement parts site that the original PC1 board (244389) has been discontinued and replaced with PC1 (267238) I imagine that this means there were inherent flaws with the original boards?

            How difficult is it to remove/replace this board myself?
            thanks again guys for any help or advice.
            Last edited by brianp01; 03-07-2020, 08:23 AM.

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            • #7
              Those are like $1300 they aren't cheap...Bob
              Bob Wright

              Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
              http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

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              • #8
                Hey Bob I seen that, I was hoping that maybe I could find a refurbished one or have this one repaired. But the more I keep looking into it I’m not sure I want to get into going through all the trouble of having it repaired only to have it crap out again down the road. Ultimately I think I will be returning the welder.

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                • #9
                  Unless you know someone willing to work on it, I would definitely recommend you return it. It could be as simple as replacing the input rectifier and capacitors, but takes a while to troubleshoot. And because everything input is on the same board in that machine, there's too much room to miss something and have it all fail over again.

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