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330 a/bp no amperage control

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  • 330 a/bp no amperage control

    my 330 a/bp has no remote amperage control it seems to be at the bottom of the amp range it all seems to work fine other than there isn't enough amperage to melt aluminum, it started working intermittently then quit, it doesn't make any difference if it is on ac straight or reverse, it works fine if I leave it on standard and turn the amperage dial up and down, i have an amp track thumb control which wont change the amperage so I hooked up my old foot pedal and it made no change, the 10 amp fuse is good, when I press the foot pedal it closes relay 1 and 3 and 4 closes intermittently, when I start an arc 2 and 4 close and 1 and 3 remain closed, any help on where to look for the problem would be greatly appreciated

  • #2
    That’s a big ole machine man. I like it.

    I don’t understand what AC straight or reverse is....I figure you mean DC + and - .

    Has this machine been working just fine up to this point?

    Let’s confirm ALL your switches are in the right place first. Then let’s confirm your HF is firing at all. Do you know how to do that?

    I think we can help you woolley boy. I have that machine and several of the guys on here are very well acquainted with it as well.


    • #3
      ac straight or reverse polarity, yes the machine has been working until now, I bought it new and it has very little use, the hf is working ok on start or continuous but it just wont put out enough amperage to get hot enough to melt aluminum, it works ok if I set the switches that go to the foot pedal on standard instead of remote and turn the amperage dial up and down


      • #4
        Can you list your serial number? There were a few generations of this. Just in case it isn't your thumb or pedal control, can you check resistance across the leads and confirm the wiper changes resistance with thumb/pedal travel? Only other thing is to make sure the remote sockets are still connected to power and switch S2 (STD/RMT). With the machine off and STD/RMT switch sent to STD, you should get some resistance across the middle (L shaped) socket and the C socket on the amperage remote receptacle. That resistance should change as you change the remote amperage knob. If that checks out, you can check resistance between the middle L-shaped socket and B.
        Hope this helps,
        Last edited by jjohn76; 02-05-2020, 10:09 PM.