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Dry cut saws

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  • Dry cut saws

    I’ve been trying to research saws. I’m wanting a better way to cut stock, besides my porta ban, torch, zip disc etc.
    ive been reading about the dry cut chop saws with carbide blades, they claim they are way faster, way more accurate etc. from researching, I see a lot of complaints on the dewalt and Makita, some decent reviews on the skil, and a ton of good reviews on the evolution saw.. which really surprised me, it being made in China. But then again, they probably all are.
    Does anyone have some hands on advice... are they worth the 500.00, which to avoid, best bang for the buck etc?
    Would be looking to cut , square tubing from 1”-2” and probably 1/8, to 3/16” thick. Angle iron etc. I very seldom would be working on much anything thicker than 1/4”.
    Any help would be much appreciated. Hate to spend 500, and find out it was wasted

  • #2
    There was a really good thread on welding web about these, but the site is down now. It seems the most positive comments were about the bigger/heavier Evo and the Fein Slugger.


    • #3
      I used the DeWalt Multi-Cutter for many years, and a friend still has one. We loved it for the stuff it could do, like what you are describing. We also would never be without an abrasive chop saw because they can cut stuff that the carbide shouldn't. If I could only have one, it would be the more versatile abrasive.


      • #4
        I really like the dry saws. I've had a few for a while now from the Dry Fein Slugger 14" carbide chop saw, the evolution 7" hand saw, and a Milwaukee cordless 5 7/8" carbide saw. Love all of them. If I was to do it again I might would get the Milwaukee 6370-21 8" Metal Cutting Saw over the evolution just because I like Milwaukee tools. I also screwed up my evolution saw cutting 2" thick 25000 volt 500 mcm copper wire wrapped in rubber insulation. It kicked back from the rubber and now it makes a awful noise but still works. Sounds like the bushes are chattering but haven't killed it yet. The biggest thing to me is the accuracy. I can cut shims from pipe with the 14" saw a 1/16" thick and they are dead on thickness wise. You wont do that with a band saw. Only down side is the blades are expensive. Long as you don't knock any teeth off them they last awhile though. I still use the big band saw for certain cuts or large material but really try to use the dry saws when I can. You don't have to worry about the blade walking like with band saws and dry saws gives you nice stright square cuts. I can say they are also faster at the cuts too. I also do a lot of aluminum and got the high dollar aluminum blades but they seem to still clog the teeth and dull fast. I have a dewalt 12" compound miter wood saw and do most aluminum cutting on it if I am cutting angles as the faster blade seems to do better on the complex aluminum cuts. The 12" 80 tooth wood carbide blades work ok on the aluminum and are much cheaper than the big 14" draw saw blades. Standard stright cuts the Fein 14" dose good to the teeth dull but that happens will all carbide blades. I still do the stainless steel cuts on the band saws and have tried it on the draw saws but the stainless seems to knock the teeth off faster. I don't think standard draw saws are not made for ss any how but I had to try it. Probably need a wet carbide saw for that. I would love to have a wet saw but they are really expensive. If you do get one make sure you get the higher HP model if there are two offered like in the fein. The $500 Higher HP model I have works well but I have heard that the lower HP $350 model dose not work as well. I would also like to try the Milwaukee 6190-20 14" dry saw as it looks to be better built. The Fein has a crappie handle on mine with a small set screw on the end that seems to fall out all the time. I ended up making my own handle for the clamp but the rest of the Fein seems ok.
        Last edited by mwahl; 02-05-2020, 05:53 AM.


        • #5
          Thanks for the reply Mwahl. Milwaukee was the first brand I searched for, since I have a ton of Milwaukee stuff , but for some reason they discontinued there saw. I’ve looked at a lot of different brands online, they all have pros and cons. Hard to make a decision, but I’m definitely buying one of them


          • #6
            Dry cut saw all the way. The blades are probably cheaper then an abrasive in the long run. You can also sharpen them for a bit cheaper. I pretty much only do aluminum now and have never changed the blade in 8 months and I've used it a ton.

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            • #7
              I am only a hobbyist, but bought the Makita LC1230; around $450 with two 12" blades on sale a couple of years ago at CPO tools on line. Use it mostly for 1/8 and 16 ga. tubing, but have also cut a lot of angle--1/8 to 3/16, and sched 40 steel pipe from 1/2 to 2". I spray the blade with lubricant while cutting. I am absolutely amazed at the precision and smoothness of the cuts after using my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw for so long. Still use it especially for heavier stuff, but I love this Makita. What has really impressed me is after maybe a thousand or so cuts in steel, I cannot tell the original blade has dulled at all. I don't push it, and as I said, always lubricate the cut with whatever I have handy, but every time I use it I'm thinking the blade HAS to be dull by now, but it isn't. Swarf comes off in little perfectly-shaped chips just like a mill.


              • #8
                I have the Dewalt saw so here's my $0.02. It was a HUUUUUUUGE improvement over my nasty abrasive saw; I don't have to wear a respirator anymore to make cuts. I'm on the original blade after 1000(?) cuts (WAG) of mostly structural steel and some aluminum and no signs of wear. I think the saw will easily pay itself off in money saved on abrasives, even considering the carbide blades are $100/ea.

                The base is pretty much is a piece of ****. I have to put shims between the work and the base on the left side for long pieces. If I cut a short piece, the right side goes down due to the pressure from the blade and the right side of the base is about 1/16" lower than rest of the base so those cuts aren't square. I've tried to put shims under the right side but they just fall out from vibration.
                I'll make a new base someday, I just haven't got around to doing it yet.

                This guy sells a base. Somewhere in his youtube videos, he had put a big chunk of aluminum on top of the ****ty base which made for a quick and easy fix. Then he just put the parts to be cut on top of the alum.

                Having used my saw, I can't imagine putting it on a slide (Evolution Saw). I have to assume that would be a **** show and kind of elaborates on what [486] said, the setup has to be rigid.