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  • Help need to a beginner with Dynasty 200dx

    My age is 73 and I am beginning to teach myself TIG. I have a Miller 175 MIG machine that I do fine with and it serves the much of my needs, yet, at times, I want the option of TIG.

    I build drag race cars and my immediate need is welding headers built with 18 ga mild steel tubing. I am struggling with basic machine settings. It would be very helpful to know a good starring setup. I am reading and watching videos, however, I find it overwhelming.

    Can someone please post the basic machine adjustments that will let me practice then weld up those headers? As I learn, I will experiment with more, but for now, I just need to get started.

    Thank You

  • #2
    I guess it could be possible to start out on something a bit more complicated, like maybe the space shuttle....welding small diameter tubing is a heck of place to start learning tig, but I feel ya.

    You’ll be fairly low amperage, maybe 80 or so. Maybe set it a little higher so you can put a little more gas to the pedal if you need to. 1/16 tungsten and filler or 3/32 tungsten dresses down.

    Three most common errors for new to tig welding, arc length, angle of electrode and shielding gas.

    There are some variables yet we need to discover before I can help much more. So please post up if it’s steel or stainless steel, using a regular gas cup or a gas lense, and maybe briefly your experience so we don’t cover stuff you already know.

    And I want to see the drag car. I have a four link hitting my shop floor first thing in the morning that’s a rush job, first race is Saturday for this guy, so I need to hammer it out. Chromoly too.

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    • #3
      I finished the space shuttle job with my MIG It's good to go. I have 55 years of race car building experience but am just now "forcing" myself to learn TIG

      The header tubing is mild steel, 18 ga.I have an assortment of cups, 5 - 10, all regular, it is a weld craft #17 torch that came with the machine

      My struggle is with the settings of the ac pulse [or do I turn it off] high-frequency settings. I can use the machine for basic tack and short beads but I am very inconsistent.

      This is the link to my Camaro project "Lamplighter" http://drr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/t...2/m/9447054286

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      • #4
        Originally posted by uncrated View Post
        The header tubing is mild steel, 18 ga.I
        My struggle is with the settings of the ac pulse [or do I turn it off] high-frequency settings. I can use the machine for basic tack and short beads but I am very inconsistent.
        Steel is TIG welded using DC, AC is for aluminum
        Richard
        West coast of Florida

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        • #5
          Ugh....a Chevy guy.....

          ...what Ltbadd just said for starters.

          If you’re going to plan on getting up in those collectors or any tight spots where you need to stick that tungsten out, you’ll benefit greatly from a gas lense.

          But if it’s mild steel, you can just mig them.

          But number 2...if you’re trying to learn to tig, practice flat, then practice on some scrap tube, then go at it. Those same basics apply to tube as they do to flat stuff. On such small tube and odd lengths hanging out like an exhaust, you’ll have to start and stop several times to make it around once. And really think it through so you don’t end up painting yourself into a corner.

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          • #6
            A Tig finger helps you prop on the tube/sheet to keep the the arc length (tungsten height) consistent when going around the tube. You can do a slower pulse (1 pulse per second) and time sticking your rod with the high amp pulse to make it a little easier to get more uniform beads. Like Ryan said, it's best to try flat running beads on steel, then a fillets (t-joint), then lap welds. Tubing transitions from fillet joints to lap joints as you go around, and the clusters call for more heat, so a pedal is helpful.

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            • #7
              uncrated,

              Welcome to the forum.

              Unlike the old saying "you can't teach an old new tricks" -
              kudos to you for trying a new method of welding.

              Here are my poor suggestions - the pros can correct me.

              1 - Hope you have a foot control - makes it so much easier.

              2 - DC for steel - I would start at 45 amps - no pulse - HF start
              preflow - .5 sec - post flow 8 sec.

              3 - Wire - .035 or .045 diameter if you have it.

              Like ryanjones2150 said - practice.

              Since you are already familiar with MIG, this should
              be easy for you to transition.

              For me the hard part was feeding the wire in while holding
              the arc steady and moving both st the same time .

              One plus - you won't have spatter and your helmet covers wil last longer.

              Good luck

              Miller Dynasty 350, Dynasty 210 DX, Hypertherm 1000, Thermal Arc GTSW400, Airco Heliwelder II, oxy-fuel setup, metal cutting bandsaw, air compressor, drill press, large first aid kit, etc.

              Call me the "Clouseau" of welding !

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              • #8
                How well can you see

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