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Dynasty 280DX troubleshooting

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  • jjohn76
    replied
    I haven't even opened up one of those, but could spend the time, with enough time... Everything looks digital based on the wiring between boards, so I'd just track the signals. It might be worth putting it up for sale as a non-working unit to see what you can get for it.

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  • Aaron89
    replied
    If John could pin point what is wrong I would consider sending it to him. I’m debating if I just want to replace it with a dynasty 210 dx since they are around $4,000 new. I don’t want to spend $3,000 for a repair with no warranty.

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  • jjohn76
    replied
    I would enjoy that, but the wife draws the line somewhere just short of there...

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    You could just loan it to John and let him have a ball fixing it. He might even pay YOU for the joy you’ve shared!

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  • jjohn76
    replied
    You could also probably get most of that from selling the 280DX non-working.

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  • MasterKwan
    replied
    I was eyeballing some Everlast Tig welders. You can pick up a nice one with cooler that costs less than that $1900 board and comes with another 3 year warranty. Like you, I'm a hobby welder, A failed $800 welder every couple years is more palatable than a failed $6000 welder.

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  • Aaron89
    replied
    I did look over the other connection while I was in there. Didn’t see any problems. I only use the welder for hobby so it’s a big loss with only 35 hrs of weld time on it. I was hoping maybe someone had this problem before and could pin point which board to replace. This is one of the original versions of the dynasty 280 DX so I’m sure they made some changes since but I don’t know if I can trust to buy another Miller dynasty and have problems again later. I can’t gamble with thousands of dollars experimenting replacing boards either.

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  • jjohn76
    replied
    I don't know if innovative Corp or another company can check/rebuild those particular boards, but it may be worth a shot - much cheaper than shelling out for complete boards. I am surprised they didn't have you look at the connections on PC7 or PC2. I haven't looked beyond the diagrams in the manual, but it seems like the components in common between your two error codes are those two boards. Maybe PC-9, but I wouldn't think so. Just based on the number of cables in groupings.on connectors, I would guess it's all digital communication, so it could be the connectors like the ribbon cable between PC2 and PC10 or RC40 between PC7 and PC2. Maybe check connections on both sides? Is this used for business or hobby?

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  • MasterKwan
    replied
    Looks like highway robbery to me...

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  • Aaron89
    replied

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  • Aaron89
    replied
    They had me unplug RC200 and RC210. They come off the black plastic box in the back lower right side. (Water cooler control board) That did not make any difference.

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  • jjohn76
    replied
    I was going to recommend that and probably plug/check/unplug connectors RC30 and RC40 on PC7 (the water cooled board plugs into that). I am pretty sure board PC2 is the one that interprets faults from the cooler power, but the fault signals have to go through PC7. I am referencing page 68 in the operator's manual.

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  • Aaron89
    replied
    Yes I have but I don’t know what I’m looking at. The Miller Tech had me unplug the board for the water cooler but it didn’t change anything. Still had the same fault pop up.

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  • jjohn76
    replied
    Have you had it open?

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  • Aaron89
    replied
    1.4.1 is pc1 issue and 1.5.1 is cooler power supply failure.

    The cooler works like it should. No issues. I’ve unplugged the cooler from the welder and put it in stick mode and tried it. Still comes up cool pwr and shuts the welder down. I’ve even turned the cooler off in the settings. It’s like it’s getting a fake fault.

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