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Spoolmatic 1 and WC-1, how to test?

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  • Spoolmatic 1 and WC-1, how to test?

    Hey all,

    A local shop was closing down and I bought a couple of things from them to include a Spoolmatic 1 and WC-1. I plan to sell the package, but would like to test it out before I sell it and have a couple of questions.

    I have a Millermatic 251 and a Millermatic 35S that I can use for the power source. The 35S would be the easiest to use because I already have the wrapper off since I'm in the process of converting it to an internal gas solenoid/valve setup and a modern gun adapter. Would it make more sense to use the 251 for any reason?

    I think I've got the cabling/power figured out with one exception. From the gun to the front of the WC-1 is self-explanatory, and the 115V AC from the back of the unit to a wall outlet makes sense, but what do I do with the contactor control wire on the 35S/251 side?

    The 35S serial number is: HG039431.
    The 251 serial number is: LC620409.
    The WC-1 serial number is: HF892111

    The fuse cap on the WC-1 disappeared in transit, but I replaced it after the pic was taken and the contactor wire with 2 blades on the plugs is hiding in the picture, but present. I posted the question on another site but haven't had any comments yet.



    Attached Files

  • #2
    The contactor control wire(s) from the box go to the power unit and turn the machine on and off just as the trigger on the machines gun would.

    Long and short of the situation is the gun and box substitute for the machine's wire drive and gun.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Franz© View Post
      The contactor control wire(s) from the box go to the power unit and turn the machine on and off just as the trigger on the machines gun would.

      Long and short of the situation is the gun and box substitute for the machine's wire drive and gun.
      Thanks, I don't know why that didn't occur to me! I'll have to go back and find some threads I saw on the topic to see if I can't figure out how to connect the contactor wires to the 35S without back feeding 115V into the 35S trigger circuit.

      Comment


      • #4
        Well, it don't look like it's gonna be easy.
        Also looks like the situation of WC-1 boxes has been addressed before by Duane.

        https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/...tic-1-hook-ups

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Franz© View Post
          Well, it don't look like it's gonna be easy.
          Also looks like the situation of WC-1 boxes has been addressed before by Duane.

          https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/...tic-1-hook-ups
          They did discuss it in that thread, but never provided a solution....turns out it was actually quite easy. Disconnect the jumper between posts 3 and 4 on the WC-1 terminal strip, then jumper wires from posts 2 and 4 on the terminal strip to the trigger wires on the power source. Here's a reply on the other forum in case anybody is looking for it. The big thing is that the jumper between 3 and 4 has to be removed. If not, you send 115V to the 24V trigger circuit on the power source and kill it.

          https://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...-1-how-to-test

          Comment


          • #6
            Question becomes; Is the trigger circuit AC or DC?
            If DC I'd look into using an arc supressing diode across the trigger to maximize life of those cotacts.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Franz© View Post
              Question becomes; Is the trigger circuit AC or DC?
              If DC I'd look into using an arc supressing diode across the trigger to maximize life of those cotacts.
              It's 24V AC. I was only doing this is a brief test to make sure the WC-1 and SM1 work properly so I can sell it. It's already back to the stock configuration.

              Comment

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