Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Mil scale removal

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • aametalmaster
    replied
    Originally posted by thieswelds View Post
    I tried out the air needle scaler from Harbor Freight and it’s been pretty handy.
    I broke down and bought one. Wish i would have had it years before. Get a few packs of extra needles too...Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • thieswelds
    replied
    I tried out the air needle scaler from Harbor Freight and it’s been pretty handy.

    Leave a comment:


  • Franz©
    replied
    Originally posted by Noel View Post
    You don't think a guy could take a bar code scanner and just hot rod it up do you? Sounds simple enough when I say it doesn't it? $85000EURO's for the small one, might be worth trying?
    I'm thinking based on personal experience of a guy in a lab coat with a helmet headgear supporting a laser welding up a bleeding retina the price gun idea is a no go.
    Tell you what, that green dot he was focusing on where he wanted to weld was tolerable, and when he stepped on the pedal and the light turned from green to red it felt like I got hit by Tack's locomotive. Turns out them laser diodes can be tuned to specific wavelengths to do different things, like WELD.

    My hunch is yer price gun might need a little tuning and a touch more power.

    Nothing to stop you from trying though if you feel like it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Noel
    replied
    You don't think a guy could take a bar code scanner and just hot rod it up do you? Sounds simple enough when I say it doesn't it? $85000EURO's for the small one, might be worth trying?

    Leave a comment:


  • Franz©
    replied
    Originally posted by Noel View Post
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACGSzBXKONo

    I think this is the next generation of tooling to remove rust and mill scale. I asked and I couldn't afford it.
    Likelihood of that toy arriving in the shop via Horrible Fright or Princess Auto is pretty low in my estimation.

    There may also be a way of popping or disassembling slag employing the process often misidentified as electrolysis which is actually a form of electroplating.

    Leave a comment:


  • Noel
    replied
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACGSzBXKONo

    I think this is the next generation of tooling to remove rust and mill scale. I asked and I couldn't afford it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Franz©
    replied
    Some reading on mill scale indicates it's essentially a form of rust.
    Both LinKoon and Esab say removal down to ****** steel isn't necessary and both tout wires that claim to have no problem welding thru thin scale. Both also say slightly higher quantities of Silica and Manganese make it happen and e**-s6 wire contains sufficiency of both elements where the s3 wires don't.

    We pretty much know burning thru scale isn't a problem with stick.

    Having seen the new superlazer removsall video and having long ago used a flame scraper to pop rust and scale, I find myself wondering what if a carbon arc or even tungsten in a TIG torch was used to apply a generous dose of hot to the scale followed by a wire brush or scraper? I'm pondering on AC arc with a round pointed carbon in the TIG torch to produce a wide arc rather than a concentrated arc. Maybe I'll hunt up a hunk of scaled steel and try the idea right after I find some ambition.

    Leave a comment:


  • tackit
    replied
    I have boxes of different grit 3" roloc sanding dics that work great for me.. I would imagine they make them for all sizes of grinders, but you would need to buy a rubber backing pad also.

    https://www.amazon.com/3M-01397-Gree...4X4QNTFBSNEQMD

    Leave a comment:


  • MMW
    replied
    I think on most steel a grinding wheel works best/fastest. Flap wheels seem to dull up and take longer. On thick plate where the end finish is not so important and heavy scale is encountered, a needle scaler or chipping gun may work best.

    Leave a comment:


  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Stick welding is the least effected by mill scale of all the arc welding processes. If I’m stick welding, I almost never even bother with the mill scale.

    Leave a comment:


  • tackit
    replied
    I found this porosity test pic I did on unground HR with 7018, it had no problem at all going through mill scale, the pass was made with my 110 volt stick machine.

    Leave a comment:


  • sledsports
    replied
    I use a depressed center grinding disks. The ones with the 5/8 nut made in the disk lay it down almost flat till I see shiny steel then lay it flat and flush grind. You dont gouge the material that way. Then flush it with a 60 grit flap disc .

    Leave a comment:


  • aametalmaster
    replied
    When i worked in the big factory all of our mill scale had to be ground 1" on either side of the weld area. Angle grinder and grinding wheel was the best...Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • Metjunkie
    replied
    I usually use a knotted wire cup brush in my 4.5" grinder. I heard the paint stripping discs worked pretty well, so I got a Warrior brand polycarbide disc from harbor freight to try. Cost about 5 bucks and worked pretty well, but as previously mentioned, doesn't last very long and be real careful around the edges. I used it to remove all the mill scale from 4 6"x 13" plates. HF also has smaller ones that will work in a drill.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ltbadd
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
    I’ve found the paint stripping wheels for a 4 1/2” grinder work exceptionally well. You just have to be careful not to hang the edge of the metal on the wheel because it will tear a big chunk out of you $11 fancy paint stripping abrasive.
    They do work well, wish they lasted longer though

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X