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Welding A2 Steel

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  • jv123
    replied
    Thank you all for the excellent information!!!!

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  • Franz©
    replied
    I'd deal with the Hardie first by using a couple inches off one piece with the square hole accomplished by burning out a U & finish grinding. Then I'd bevel that piece and it's mating surface on the remaining long piece AFTER drilling a Pritchle into the Hardie piece. S L O W cool wrapped in insulation or buried in a tub of vermiculite.

    If you can do the job in a single section lay the top flat and weld the shortened piece on narrow side to wide bottom face of the top.

    Bob needs to come up with a stick rod number that is close to AH-10

    Stand the T on top of a mild steel plate, probably 1/2" to marry to your stump and skip weld T to base. Probably best to predrill the base if you intend to bolt it to the stump. Base should be minimally twice as wide as the top. 7018 will probably suffice there since the impact force has spread by that point of interaction.

    Peening ain't going to hurt, but I'd do that with a rear exhaust needle scaler or .401 hammer with a rounded over chisel. That operation would happen in the tub of vermiculite.

    ESAB calls out a well detailed procedure for tool steel.
    https://www.esabna.com/euweb/as_handbook/596as3_2.htm

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    I agree with the peening as well. Do it right away after welding. If you have a needle scaler that will make it easy, provided you know how to do it without bending your needles all up. Plus it’ll take the slag off nicely.

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  • aametalmaster
    replied
    I welded A2 steel for almost 7 years, daily. I preheated and ran stringers with Crown Alloys AH-10. Peen after welding and cool slow...Bob

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  • Noel
    replied
    No, leave them as they are.

    Yes, preheat you should. Min. 150, to a max of 400. You goal is to prevent a rapid quenching. E7018 should be fine. I'd post heat as well and don't force the cooling.

    Yes and no. Yes to a "V groove, no to a need to go crazy in depth or width. 3/8" deep, 60degrees open, three passes. The important is the preheat and your ability to lay a bead. Yes, weld all at once. Preheat, tack weld to align, tack weld to support, grind out the alignment tacks and start welding, grind tacks as you go, and yes to balance the weld contraction by doing one side then the other.

    No. Follow above you should be fine. Other's may say other wise? That's good. Never hurts to get a second opinion.

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  • jv123
    started a topic Welding A2 Steel

    Welding A2 Steel


    I'm a beginner welder, and just getting into knife making. I recently purchased two pieces of A2 steel, 2 1/4 X 3 1/2 X 8", and I want to weld them together to form the main body of an anvil. I will be using them on edge, so the seam will be vertical and not horizontal. I would appreciate any advice about how to make this weld, and to approach this process. Specific questions:

    * Should I heat treat the pieces prior? they are already pretty hard, and barely dent with a hammer. They also have good rebound. I would not be able to fit them into my forge in the welded state.

    * Should I/how should I approach pre-heat before welding? I'm aware that cracking is a big danger in welding this. I have 7018 rods I've purchased for the task, and I have only a stick welder.

    * I presume it would be best to bevel the edges a good bit and make several passes - yes? Should I weld all at once, or do one or two beads on different sides and then cool, repeat, etc.?

    * Once I've welded together this main body, I plan to build a hardy hole onto the end of the anvil using mild steel, by welding several pieces of 3/4" mild steel then welding to the body - will that also be a difficult task with this steel?

    In any case - any advice at all here would be most welcome!
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