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330 ABP problem

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  • #31
    These two actuate the relay. Note where the little black ribs are located (vertical and horizontal ones).

    Click image for larger version

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    • #32
      166 volts John

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      • #33
        Originally posted by Gocha Ent. Inc. View Post
        166 volts John
        Ok, so it's likely your relay. When you pull the four wires, keep track of where they go. You need to keep 63 and 64 on the right terminals, otherwise the relay coil will not work correctly. The other two wires need to be in the normally open connections (best just to take a pic...). When you remove the relay, check continuity across A and B (the leads you just checked). Please confirm it is showing open circuit.
        Last edited by jjohn76; 10-11-2019, 03:24 PM.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Gocha Ent. Inc. View Post
          jjohn76 My CR-2 is a little different all the terminals face the same direction.
          The replacement relay is a Deltrol 20552-84. It looks like a special order if you buy OEM (Galco shows a 19 day lead time). It's Miller Part number 052603, and is around $40, on eBay or millerserviceparts.

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          • #35
            Ok John I'll let you know when I get a relay thank you for all your help and everyone.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Gocha Ent. Inc. View Post
              Ok John I'll let you know when I get a relay thank you for all your help and everyone.
              No problem. One last thing you can check while there is to make sure your wiring is good from the relay to the HF switch. With your power off, put the HF switch in either "Off" or "Start" and check continuity across the other two wires on that relay. They should be open. Now turn your HF switch to "Continuous" and measure again. Those wires should read closed.

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              • #37
                Ok will do.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Gocha Ent. Inc. View Post
                  Ok will do.
                  Actually, nevermind, that won't work. Sorry for the confusion...

                  With the machine powered off and HF in start you should have continuity across those two wires. For any other HF setting you should have an open across those two wires.
                  Last edited by jjohn76; 10-11-2019, 05:14 PM.

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                  • #39
                    If you screw up the position of the wires you’ll probably pop the fuse on the side. If yours has one. I did that, thanks to Wayne for getting me lined back out on the wire positions.

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                    • #40
                      And good luck on finding a fuse. Your hardware store will only have slow blow fuses, not what you need. If it comes to that, I have a box of the right fuses I can share.

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                      • #41
                        Forgive me for being late to the party

                        I am allways a day late and dollar short but If this will help,
                        I have and will ship to you free a diode bridge for your 330 ABP.

                        KBPC3510

                        It is rated 1000 volts at 35 amps.
                        Tabs fit 1/4" push on terminals.

                        We need to keep these older machines like Ryan's "Helga" working.
                        Miller Dynasty 350, Dynasty 210 DX, Hypertherm 1000, Thermal Arc GTSW400, Airco Heliwelder II, oxy-fuel setup, metal cutting bandsaw, air compressor, drill press, large first aid kit, etc.

                        Call me the "Clouseau" of welding !

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                          If you screw up the position of the wires you’ll probably pop the fuse on the side. If yours has one. I did that, thanks to Wayne for getting me lined back out on the wire positions.
                          Ryan, it sounds like you had the relay coil leads (the two closest to the panel) connected to the contacts' leads, and vice versa, so when you turned on the contactor, the HF primary winding energized relay CR2 and shorted the control transformer, blowing fuse F4 in the process. Does that sound right? Is it a 10A, 125V fuse, on the inside right of the front panel area, just above the duplex receptacle? I am still digging through the schematics to understand how these operate... and break...

                          Jon

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                          • #43
                            Burnt hands tell me about the diode bridge.

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                            • #44
                              That sounds about right. You don’t want a hardware store slow blow fuse in there, that’s for sure.

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                              • #45
                                Gocha Ent. Inc.

                                The diode bridge I have looks like the one in post #25.

                                PM me with your mailing address and I'll send it to you.
                                Miller Dynasty 350, Dynasty 210 DX, Hypertherm 1000, Thermal Arc GTSW400, Airco Heliwelder II, oxy-fuel setup, metal cutting bandsaw, air compressor, drill press, large first aid kit, etc.

                                Call me the "Clouseau" of welding !

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