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  • 330 ABP problem

    How do I trouble shoot my 330ABP all of the sudden I have to scratch start it I've clean and adjusted the points cleaned the foot pedal. Where do I go next I bought this machine new and I use it in my home shop not everyday.

  • #2
    If you don't already have the manual, I would download it off this site. Ryan will probably see this eventually. He has a 330 and he may have some tips for you. Do you have access to another pedal you could try? There are some knowledgeable folks here. I'm sure some of them will chime in when they see this.

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    • #3
      Ignore the crabby old prick Gocha, he’s on a mission to ensure nobody posts questions about broken welding machines on this forum again....for some reason he thinks he’s helping.

      First thing, yes, get the book. Check all the switches again. Sometimes when she sits up, those contacts like to get picky. Work em a few times and see if she chooches. I had a similar problem and I had two issues that I solved and it fixed her. First, I had to replace a couple of relays. Not a fun job because the relays that are in there are older than Franz’s underwear and probably just as crusty. However, there are updated parts that you can put in there, but it will require you modifying the mount and the cover for the relay rack.

      My second problem was simple. I had a failure of the panel switch for the contractor control. When I wiggled it, it would work. So I replaced it, problem solved.

      I was not alone in the repair of my machine. There are a couple other guys on here that are jam up with reading those old wiring schematics and can dadgum newr pinpoint a problem component.

      The suggestion to check the foot pedal is also great advice to take BEFORE you start pulling panels.

      Good luck and post back.

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      • #4
        I found out today that if my switch is on continuous It will start without having to scratch start.

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        • #5
          You only want continuous if you’re welding on AC. Of course the AC will fire on continuous, as soon as you drop the foot pedal it should be firing. So it’s likely your pedal is fine. You don’t want continuous on DC, that’s for sure. While you have it in continuous and switch the amperage control from remote to standard the HF will kick off, foot pedal or no foot pedal.

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          • #6
            When you press the pedal, does the gas solenoid still work?

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            • #7
              Yes the gas solenoid works

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              • #8
                Ok, it sounds like relay CR3 is doing it's job since your gas comes on. But CR2 (upper right relay) isn't doing its job. Are you able to check whether or not CR2 is clicking? It's worth checking the connections to/from relays CR1 (upper left), CR2 (upper right), and CR3 (lower right).
                Last edited by jjohn76; 10-07-2019, 03:21 PM.

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                • #9
                  I had a long write-up, but had to review the schematic again. It looks like since you have power at the output, contactor W and relay CR3 are working. CR1 monitors the output voltage (or some part of it across R2) and when it goes above a certain voltage (open circuit condition), it connects the 115V secondary to SR4, which rectifiers it to turn on the DC relay CR2. CR2 bypasses the HF continuous switch, and when it is activated, turns on your HF.

                  If all of your connections to CR1 and CR2 are good, I would check R2 to make sure it isn't open circuit (R2 is the big horizontal resistor on the relay board), then check to see if you can actuate CR1 by putting 12V across its coil. CR2 needs at least 80V DC to actuate, so it might be best to watch/listen for that one. Ryan, please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it should actuate any time there is an open circuit voltage on the output.

                  ​​​

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                    You only want continuous if you’re welding on AC. Of course the AC will fire on continuous, as soon as you drop the foot pedal it should be firing. So it’s likely your pedal is fine. You don’t want continuous on DC, that’s for sure. While you have it in continuous and switch the amperage control from remote to standard the HF will kick off, foot pedal or no foot pedal.
                    Ryan, when you have it on HF start and put the contactor control from remote to standard, does the HF kick off too?

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                    • #11
                      No, it has to be on continuous.

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                      • #12
                        Dang, I can't figure out what that normally closed contact from relay CR3 does in the start circuit. It opens when you press the pedal, but I don't see how that changes voltage across the HF relay (CR2) or start amperage relay (CR4).

                        Either way, I found this thread that helps make sense of relays CR1 and CR2.
                        https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/...ting-a-330a-bp

                        Gocha, if you remove the right panel, you should see the relay board. When you press the pedal, both of the top two relays should actuate. Do these two click/actuate when you press the pedal?

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                        • #13
                          The relay rack probably has a plastic cover screwed down over it. The relays are most likely the old style, open body type.

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                          • #14
                            Ryan, your 330 looks like this inside? My brother's was a little different and had the closed clear cover relays with no big plastic cover. It was in the same place though. I think either way, the top two relays should actuate when pressing the pedal. Does that sound right?

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                            • #15
                              Yes, very similar. The relays are under that the lasting rectangle box thing.

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