I have a Miller CP302 that has blown its fusible links F1 and F2. What would cause this to happen? Before I change them, I would like to find out why they blew.
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Fusible Links Blown
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Hi, I don't have a CP-302, but do have it's older version, the CP 300. Are you referring to the two circuit breakers on the front of the machine, tied to the 110V and 24V circuits that feed your feeder through the remote receptacle? If so, then it likely was your wire feeder. Did you change anything on your wire feeder when they blew?
Edit: those fusible links are between your transformer output and rectifier assembly (big octagon looking metal thing between your transformer and fan. First, check for resistance across your output leads. If they are shorted, then you likely have a bad component in your rectifier assembly. It could be one of the capacitors across your SCRs and diodes, but it's probably at least one of your SCRs or diodes. There should be three diodes and three SCRs (look just like the diodes except they have a little wire coming out, probably the three of them on the top half of the metal octagon). Do a diode test on each one (they look kind of like bolt heads with a big wire sticking out the top, the SCRs also have a little wire that goes to the circuit board at the top inside of your machine). If these pass, there is a diode/resistor/varistor assembly that connects the two metal pieces of the octagon. Hopefully this makes sense, it would be easier with pictures... If the resistance across the leads is not high, maybe you were burning 1/16+ wire at 800+ ipm?
JonLast edited by jjohn76; 10-07-2019, 08:02 AM.
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Those aren't fusible links, they are fuse elements somebody punched holes in the ends of and misused.
They were designed to function inside a powder filled tube to protect them from vibration. Once vibration works on a fuse element it fractures and then blows itself.
Also fuse elements are ONLY accurate in current limitation when operating in the environment they were designed to occupy, such as a powder filled tube.
Portable Heliarc machines often employ a "water fuse" to insure coolant flow thru the torch. That 10 Amp element surrounded by flowing coolant will pass 300 amps without blowing. No coolant the element cooks off before the torch is damaged.
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Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View PostI popped mine a couple years ago, the max output is 150 amps, I was pushing 225 through it. Oops.
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Got lucky by switching from google to Duckduckgo for a search engine. "renewablefuselink" = search term
Bet they are all a lot less expensive than Miller department of Supergianttransglobal part sales.
Manufacturer lists higher amperages as "obsolete" and their site lets you search all their distributors for availability
When it comes to Fuse Blocks, Holders & Covers, you can count on Grainger. Supplies and solutions for every industry, plus easy ordering, fast delivery and 24/7 customer support.
lists links as available in their system, usual insane pricing
I'd suggest if you have a machine using these fuses investing in spares now is a good idea.
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To blow mine, I was pushing the machine way over it’s limit for far too long. If you keep blowing them, either you’re over working your gear or there’s something wrong. I was running a scratch start tig rig at about 225 amps when the rectifier is very clearly marked to not exceed 150. Whooda thunk it was right?
How much did those cost you with a miller part number? I’m interested to know because mine were maybe $2 each from a parts house. They’re a very common component. I bought five, one to replace then have some spares, but I haven’t needed them. Most got 5 because there was a minimum order.
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