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hobart iroman 230 impressions

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  • hobart iroman 230 impressions

    alright, ive had my ironman 230 for about a month now. had a hard time deciding between it and the lincoln 256mp, decided on the hobart for the simplicity and less things to go wrong over time. but even after purchase i felt i was taking a step backwards due to the simple design, tapped voltage and no creature comforts ect... but after have done a few jobs with it, the more i use it the more i like it. has a very very nice arc, the stepped voltage had me worried at first. but its not like the older stepped voltage machines ive run in the past that have noticable gaps between the steps. each one flows well into each other and is almost impossible to tell its a tapped machine. the fan is very quiet and moves alot of air, vs some newer machines that wouldnt blow a mouse fart away. seems to be well built other that the wheels and the mig gun. i will see how the m-25 gun stands up but it does feel chinsy and the rubber feels like it will get stiff when cold. the drive system is typical miller, uses all the same consumables which is nice. cant wait to put it through its paces and see what its made of. im very impressed like i said and would recomened one in a heart beat.

  • #2
    https://www.hobartwelders.com/equipm...-welder-m00235

    If that's what you got, I'd say your shining.

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    • #3
      Thanks for taking the time to post up your review. I’m sure it will come as valuable to folks searching the inter web for info on that machine.

      Do you have plans to get the spool gun for it? I haven’t heard much about it but what I have heard has not been great. Mostly shielding gas issues. So if you go that route, report back!

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      • #4
        I've had a Hobart 190 for several years and put miles of wire through it - no complaints here. I once accidentally pulled the trigger lead out, low and behold, Miller parts were a direct fit!
        J.Caraher
        Wide Open Throttle Technologies (WOT-Tech), Pompano Beach FL
        Miller Sync 300,Hobart 190
        RogueFab pneumatic, Hossfeld Manual
        Kitamura CNC, Bridgeport 2j
        TunerPRO, HPTuners, AEM, Megasquirt, DynoJet
        NASA Racing Official/Driver

        YouTube Link, Instagram Link, FaceBook Link

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
          Thanks for taking the time to post up your review. I’m sure it will come as valuable to folks searching the inter web for info on that machine.

          Do you have plans to get the spool gun for it? I haven’t heard much about it but what I have heard has not been great. Mostly shielding gas issues. So if you go that route, report back!
          im not sure on the spool gun yet. as i dont weld much aluminum. saying that, most the aluminum i come across is smaller delicate things on atv and snowmobile parts. so id most likely jump for a tig machine

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          • #6
            one thing i noticed today when fabing up a hanging bike rack for the garage.was im getting a good pop at arch start up. much like what the 250x machines were known for. not sure if it crappy settings from being in a rush or if the machine will keep doing it.will have to play with it more and will report back

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            • #7
              Try bumping up the wfs a skosh and see if that helps.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by caleb90 View Post
                one thing i noticed today when fabing up a hanging bike rack for the garage.was im getting a good pop at arch start up. much like what the 250x machines were known for. not sure if it crappy settings from being in a rush or if the machine will keep doing it.will have to play with it more and will report back
                Cut the wire for each start.
                Bring the gun in closer and shorten your wire stick out. You want a shorter cut end, and positioned closer to the material before pulling the trigger. This is a quicker start instead of the stumble your experiencing from using a longer stick out, holding off the surface and squeezing trigger.. 1/4" cut, just off the surface, squeeze trigger.

                Now what happens next grasshopper is most likely you will pull back slightly letting the stick out increase to control the width and length of the arc. If you mentioned issues more then the surge and pop until it's brought down and in catching up, I'd be on the WFS as well.

                Increasing WFS was a good suggestion. It would in fact solve the problem, but could be excessive at some point in the mix as well. Try both, take pictures, report back.

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