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  • New User


    I'm a new user to the forum as well as a new user to the world of welding (I haven't touched a welder since 1976, so for intended purposes I'd consider myself "new").

    I recently purchased a Miller Multimatic 215 for use around the house. Mostly building and fixing things related to our Jeep, tractor, and tractor implements. The first project (mig), other than going through a pile of scrap trying to hone my skills, is a door dolly to store the hard doors from out Jeep,

    Two problems that I ran into while building the dolly...the first was not the quality of my welds, but the placement. I was having a heck of a time being able to see through my helmet (a Jackson AD) in order to follow a given path. Turns out that I had a fairly bright light overhead that was flooding the back of the helmet, causing glare on the inside. Once I turned the light off I could see.

    The second issue was in trusting the auto-set and welding chart on the welder. For 0.030 wire and 1/8" steel the default is something like 18V and 384 in/min (that is an approx.) However, if I use the rule that says 1 amp per .001" material x 2 for 0.030 wire I should be at around 250 in/min. In the end, I ran it at 18.5V at 225 in/min and produced nice welds.

    I also noticed that if you look at the chart the values for C25/0.030 wire at 120VAC, the values are much closer to what it should be based on the formula. But at 240VAC, the wire speed seems extremely high. Is this normal?

    Sorry for the rant, and happy to be part of the forum. Hopefully in my lessons learned I can share and answer questions.


  • #2
    Hello Dan. Welcome.

    First things solve the Jeep door problem, just throw those miserable pieces of metal in the scrap bin. There is no day that’s a good day to have doors on your Jeep. My daily driver is an old beat up Jeep. Guess what I don’t have?

    On those settings you talked about, seems a little slow to me to be honest. When you’re throwing that smaller wire out, it needs to be coming out like a mad man to punch that weld into the root. For me, 1/8” steel is pretty much the max I’d like to use .030 wire on. I hardly ever use .030 wire, mostly .035. For that size of metal, I’d probably be running about that WFS
    and voltage with .035.

    Is that machine dual voltage? If it is, and you’re on 115v, I can see why you’re running .030.


    • #3
      Hi Dan, and welcome to the play ground. New guy has to push the merry go round so don't be shy.
      I got married in 76. Where does the time go?

      So...I see you like doing math. Good skill to have. Not my strength to do calculations so I'm going to leave it to someone else to tell you if that's normal or not.
      But I do like the Merry go round to be pushed. Don't be afraid to push harder.


      • #4
        Welcome, Dan! Hope you can gain, and provide, a lot here--I certainly have, and not always about welding. For example, I just learned that I must be much older than Noel--I got married in 1968.

        Afraid I'm not much on the calculations either--I follow the chart, and tweak as necessary for good welds, being careful to get good, thorough penetration with mig. I wouldn't have a clue how many inches per minute the feed rate is, since I don't have any welders calibrated or metered for that.

        Ryan's comment about doors and Jeeps shows just how much he's forgotten since his years living up here in the cold north. Don't know where you live, but around here at 0-dark-30 in the morning when it's 15 degrees F below zero, those doors would be pretty nice! He'll be coming back north one of these days, and will be reminded.

        One thing you probably already know, but I'll say just because no one else has, whether your material is new or old, mig likes a clean surface. Be sure to grind off either the mill scale or the rust at all your weld points.

        Here's a link to a GREAT "how not not mig weld" video. This guy is so out of it, it's just amazing! Enjoy!


        • #5
          The Miller auto-set settings were on the "hot-side" on my 211, so yours might be similar. Keep in mind, with MIG it's very easy to make nice looking welds that don't have all that much depth of fusion. You said you tried 18.5V/250ipm, but did you actually try it on AutoSet as well to see what kind of results that gave you?
          HTP Invertig221 D.V. Water-cooled
          HTP Pro Pulse 300 MIG
          HTP Pro Pulse 200 MIG x2
          HTP Pro Pulse 220 MTS
          HTP Inverarc 200 TLP water cooled
          HTP Microcut 875SC


          • #6
            It’s real easy to have cold lap with a small welder using small wire, especially if you didn’t remove the mill scale. It is not unusual to see a cold weld that looks like it’s ok when it’s really just stuck to the base metal with little to no penetration.


            • #7
              Click image for larger version

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ID:	602022 I don't think it makes a difference, small wire or large. If the equipment isn't within parameters for the wire size, mode of metal transfer, the material thickness, manipulated properly, cooled to quickly, then cold lap, lack of fusion, lack of penetration, poor blending will result.


              • #8
                Thank you everyone for your feedback. After some experimentation, and getting more familiar with welding in general (it's been a very long time), I went back to the auto-set settings to give it a try. It runs fine, it was me that was moving too slowly and burning through the edges. So, I sped up my movement, and tweeked the wire speed a bit. My welds have good penetration and are solid.

                The not trusting the auto-set came from being too much of a nerd and reading about suggested starting points based on a formula vs. putting trust in a chart or "auto" setting. When I noticed there was a fairly large difference, I questioned it.

                And yes, I do make sure that the area being welded is clean, free from dirt, oil, paint, mil scale, etc.

                Once again, thanks for welcoming me to the group and providing feedback.



                • #9
                  I’ve used the auto set on a transformer style 211 and it was fine. I would agree with whoever said the chart settings tend to be a little hot. I think the chart settings would be ok for a straight drag, but not with any sort of manipulation that slows you down.

                  You’re right about the cold, Wayne, it’s been too long. I’m stubborn and like the doors off. Skull cap and ski jacket is usually plenty. It gets cold-ish here, but it’s that wet kind of cold. The kind of cold that cuts you right to the bone. But those days are few and far between and I have another car I can use if it’s that bad. Besides, having the doors off invites all sorts of adventure when you’re out and “aboot”. When I get out of here and make it back up where four seasons exist, I’ll probably get a winter coat for the old Jeep. By that time, I’ll have this shop just how I need it.


                  • #10
                    I think Oscar said he found the auto settings a bit hot, and you agree. So, it's not just me. I find the auto set on my transformer 211 just a bit on the hot side--not "burn through all the time, unuseable" hot, but a bit hotter than I like. Probably an input from Miller's lawyers to be sure the penetration was thorough. I've been through the ugliness of a legal investigation of a very, very expensive accident, and it's no fun! Thankfully, all the people involved escaped injury or death, but only narrowly. I learned; always err on the "safe" side in any design. Thankfully, we had, and came out OK.

                    I have to agree on the "southern damp cold". Even in coastal NC, with the temp in low thirties or upper twenties, I can remember being out on the ramp working inside of or on an all-metal airplane that had been "cold soaked" for a couple of days, and you are just chilled to the bone--I think I sometimes felt colder than when it was zero up north. I became a believer that cold aluminum and damp, cold air just tries to suck the very life out of you. I was blessed that most of my work was in the shop!

                    DRB, keep us posted on how you're doing!


                    • #11
                      Exactly, not totally un-usably hot, but just like "crap, I better make sure I keep moving on this at a decent pace!" kind of hot. Not to the point where it would be "well crap, that's a nice hole in my part"
                      HTP Invertig221 D.V. Water-cooled
                      HTP Pro Pulse 300 MIG
                      HTP Pro Pulse 200 MIG x2
                      HTP Pro Pulse 220 MTS
                      HTP Inverarc 200 TLP water cooled
                      HTP Microcut 875SC


                      • #12
                        Sounds like that auto-set works just fine you guys just need to move faster haha. My lincoln is so good at it that I dont even know what to set a mig at but I only ever use pulse settings. Waiting for some smart ass comment from great grandad Franz now.

                        Miller Trailblazer 325 efi
                        Miller extreme 12vs
                        Thermal arc 186 ac/dc
                        Lincoln power wave 455m/stt with 10m dual feeder


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Willvis View Post
                          Sounds like that auto-set works just fine you guys just need to move faster haha. My lincoln is so good at it that I dont even know what to set a mig at but I only ever use pulse settings. Waiting for some smart ass comment from great grandad Franz now.
                          I'm busy in the Secret Labon the rust abater product project.
                          YOU just went off the list of potential testers.


                          • #14
                            Welcome to the forum!
                            A FEW OF MY TOYS !!!

                            MX Linux

                            Miller Roughneck 2E
                            Lincoln Weldpak 100
                            Gianttech Arc 200
                            Victor O/A