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  • fun4now
    replied
    sawsall with case and blades $55.00

    nice score on the sawsall,

    as for the portacable porta band saw not shoure they make 1 of the 2 milwaukee i would see it you can tell if 1 of them can be atached to a base, i know they make a version that will base mount giving you the best of bolth worlds, base and portable maybe someone here can get ya some modle #'s to compare with

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  • nnn0rau
    replied
    Pick up a almost new 6 amp sawzall and two packages (5 each) of some Milwaukee bi-metal blades in a nice handmade oak case at an auction Saturday for $55. Used it yesterday for the first time - tis very nice. My next purchase will be the portaband. The Northern Catalog (used for benchmarking) shows two differant Milwaukee portabands, one with a case and the other is a two speed (with or without case, I dunno..). Basically similar in price. Not sure which is better. Where I can find the porta-cable to compare? Thanks for all the help!
    Lord, it's going to be another hot one today... 95+ & 99.9999% humidity.

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  • Kelly Aitken
    replied
    I agree with fun. I have a porta-band and a sawsall. My first choise usually is the porta-band but it can be bulky and just won't fit in some spaces. The sawsall would be my choice if I could only have one. Also they are about 1/3 the price of a porta-band.

    Kelly

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  • fun4now
    replied
    nnn0rau

    glad i could help

    joebass
    they are 2 totaly different tools you cant compare they bolth have different aplications and he already said he could not use 1 as it would not fit between the bars. kind of an appels and oranges thing they bolth will make juce but in different manners

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  • joebass
    replied
    I would buy a Milwaukee portaband before a sawzall.

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  • nnn0rau
    replied
    Fun4Now, OldNavy,

    THANK YOU!

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  • OldNavy
    replied
    Only have used bi-metal blades.

    I have never used anything other than bi-metal blades (Dewalt and Milwaukie). You can get them in a hack-saw blade type with the varying off set but don't remember what the tpi is but likely 18-24 tpi range. One thing I do not do is to use the saw rest/stop against the work but free hand it. If you are steady and use a light pressure you won't have a problem.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    i use Morse bi-metal blades 14teeth per inch. I think most blades are about the same, i use Morse because i got 150 of then for $40.00 off e-bay. if you look and watch for a wile you can get some sweet deals. it took me about 2weeks to get a large batch within my $$$$ cash range but it realy is nice to have a bunch around and not get caut short in the middle, not to mention $0.26 each is prity hard to beat . i was trying for a wile to get just Milwaulkee or dewalt blades but they are harder to find in big enough quantitys to be afordable . the sawsal is a great tool and sees alot of use in my shop as it is quick and can be real acurat or atleast close enough that a sanding disk can finish it off . i have 3 a milwaukee, a dewalt and a portacable. my milwaukee is the oldest about 15 years old and the portacable and dewalt are bolth about 2 or 3 years old. the portacable being my favorate they realy are a verry versatal cutter. i have even used mine to trim some of the larger limbs off the trees

    a bycicle hanging hook from walmart will alow you to hang them up where they are handy and out of the way (see pic)
    Attached Files

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  • nnn0rau
    replied
    Fun4Now, OldNavy,

    Do you recommend any particular blade for the sawzall???
    For rusty stuff, seems like an ideal solution for some of my projects as well.
    thx

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  • OldNavy
    replied
    Agree with fun4now.

    I concur with fun4now about the saw. I have cut 2", 3/16 sq tube with a DeWalt variable speed sawzall accurately and cleanly free hand as well as cast iron 3" pipe. It will cut faster if not just as fast than the portable plasma.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    3/16 square tubing is not going to be verry good at, a nice saw sall would be the ticket. as for the 1/8" it will do nicely. but on the 3/16 you will have a lot more cleanup if looking to reinstall a new rail. a sawsall would cut smooth and strait along the bottem/top rail and leave it ready for a new 1 to be welded in.

    i realy like my 125 but would use my sawsal first in your aplication.
    as for precision work on up to 10gage it is sweet (see pic)
    Attached Files

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  • tommyd
    replied
    Originally posted by nnn0rau
    Best wishes with your decision... It'll work if your not in-a-hurry.
    A decent chop saw may be another consideration.
    I would be using it to cut out old rusted tubing in hand railing were band saws, chop saws, grinders want work.

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  • nnn0rau
    replied
    Best wishes with your decision... It'll work if your not in-a-hurry.
    A decent chop saw may be another consideration.

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  • tommyd
    replied
    Originally posted by nnn0rau
    yes... it'll work IF you take it VERY slow and easy and your tip is in decent shape... 3/16 is toward the max side of this unit. I only use my 125 for precision work. Most of my cutting with it is with 10, 16 or 18 gauge etc. Have a very nice O2/fuel torch for the larger stuff. If 3/16 or larger is a majority of your work and/or, you're in a hurry - I would recommend a larger unit. I am happy with mine as-is due to my application(s).
    1/8 to 3/16 square tubing is what i would be cutting and a unit with its own compresser is what I'm looking for so i don't have to lug around a compresser

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  • nnn0rau
    replied
    Originally posted by tommyd
    have you ever cut any 3/16 with it?
    yes... it'll work IF you take it VERY slow and easy and your tip is in decent shape... 3/16 is toward the max side of this unit. I only use my 125 for precision work. Most of my cutting with it is with 10, 16 or 18 gauge etc. Have a very nice O2/fuel torch for the larger stuff. If 3/16 or larger is a majority of your work and/or, you're in a hurry - I would recommend a larger unit. I am happy with mine as-is due to my application(s).

    Leave a comment:

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