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Miller AEAD 200LE help requested

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  • Miller AEAD 200LE help requested

    I have an old gas powered Miller aead 200LE welder that runs great but can’t control the amperage. It welds at or near full power regardless of the amperage range that is selected. I have checked the fine tune rheostat and it seems good. Checked with an ohm meter it will provide a 0 to 50 ohm resistance. That’s the extent of my ability to diagnose. Any help or advise from the members would be appreciated.

  • #2
    Post a serial number. Review past threads on the subject. Wait and be hopeful. That's my advice. .

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    • #3
      Genuine Miller Electric product from back in the 70s.

      Worshiped by some, sworn at by others and even has its own web sorta site.
      Mucho good info here.
      http://stickweld.com/old-welders/the-miller-aead-200le/

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      • #4
        No guarantee but this MIGHT be your user manual.

        http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/12...ad-200-le.html

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        • #5
          Will need the serial number. You are saying that even changing the position of the range switch does nothing to control current? I just picked a random serial number to look at a diagram. That is a really strange-sounding failure--that machine uses a tapped autotransformer to set the current ranges--are you sure the shaft on the switch isn't loose from the internal mechanism?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
            Will need the serial number. You are saying that even changing the position of the range switch does nothing to control current? I just picked a random serial number to look at a diagram. That is a really strange-sounding failure--that machine uses a tapped autotransformer to set the current ranges--are you sure the shaft on the switch isn't loose from the internal mechanism?
            It wouldn't be the first case of a current selector switch shaft developing a strong bond to the barrel and the knob attachment to the shaft yielding.

            Sometimes you need a second pair of eyes or one of the little fiber optic cameras to see everything on these machines.

            I prescribe 2 drops of MMO on each shaft and a couple hours soak before employing violence.

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            • #7
              Just bought a new case of that stuff.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Franz© View Post

                It wouldn't be the first case of a current selector switch shaft developing a strong bond to the barrel and the knob attachment to the shaft yielding.

                Sometimes you need a second pair of eyes or one of the little fiber optic cameras to see everything on these machines.

                I prescribe 2 drops of MMO on each shaft and a couple hours soak before employing violence.
                MMO--Mouse Milk Oil???

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                • #9
                  Mammoth Moose Ointment

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                  • #10
                    Or marvel miracle oil, not sure which one.

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                    • #11
                      My dad was a "true believer" in Mouse Milk-several of the old time airplane mechanics i grew up around swore it was the best stuff available. Of course, that was in the 1950s-1960s. Hard to find; you can get it at Aircraft Spruce, or order directly from the company. Their web presence is not the greatest. I didn't look but Amazon probably has it, too. About a dollar an ounce I think. I just generally use Kroil, but will probably order some MMO now that it's been brought back to mind, just to see if it works any better than Kroil. Or homemade Acetone/ATF mix. That's much cheaper, and pretty effective--far better that WD-40. Just kind of a pain because if you pre-mix it, the acetone tends to evaporate away and you're left with just ATF.

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                      • #12
                        Acetone and ATF works better than anything I’ve ever used. I have a spray bottle I use to mix it in as I need it. 50/50 mix.

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