Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Syncrowave 300 I now have seen it all and it was actually working

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Syncrowave 300 I now have seen it all and it was actually working

    I have owned my JD16 model syncrowave 300 welder for about 20 years
    When I first got it home, everything seemed to be right on
    This machine had a water cooled torch and had been cooled from a garden hose and the water exited the torch into a floor drain
    I began looking for a cooler and had been told I could weld a little without water
    That was not correct from what many have told me and before long, problems began to arise
    Long story short, it has been sitting in the corner for years
    I since had located a cooler so a couple of weeks ago I fired it up
    With the HF on start, dc positive everything was working fine and about 20 minutes in, the HF began to get weaker until it stopped working
    I could still weld, but no HF so I called it a day
    Started again the next morning and everything is normal for about 20 minutes
    I know there are many that have had issues for years with these machines and the CR1 relay is no longer available
    I have attached two photos of my CR1 relay boards
    Look real close and you might be able to see where the solder tracks have disintegrated on both boards in several places
    The only reason I caught it was I was in the process of installing new contacts into the base and noticed silver dust all over my fingers
    How this machine functioned at all just blows my mind, and with close to 100 hours in it now, I’m about to give up
    I hope everyone enjoys the story and pictures, it might save someone a lot of time down the road, checking this out first
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Pretty amazing--doesn't look like it was burned by extremely high current--seems that would have discolored the board to some degree. So, did you solder in some pieces of wire and get it running again?

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by dt38k View Post
      With the HF on start, dc positive everything was working fine
      Not that it probably has anything to do with your problem, but don't you normally tig on DCEN?

      Comment


      • #4
        That looks like that special self-desoldering solder. It’s a highly classified CIA material. That machine must’ve been used on a super top secret project and will self destruct because it’s seen too much.

        Comment


        • #5
          Aeronca41
          There were a couple of light patches that were some what blackened, and when I wiped across the one area behind the contact body that the magnet pulls, this is when I noticed the powder
          I also asked Jeff about the VR 51 getting the board hot spotted and he said he has seen that before and that they tend to run hot
          On the fix, I had some 1/4” wide copper tape that has an adhesive back that is used on hand built slot car track verses braiding
          My wife uses a similar material on her stained glass projects
          I basically laid some of this over the areas and hand cut the excess off with an exacto knife
          Then I ran a bead of solder over it and also the remaining routes
          I called over to miller tig support group to get a spec sheet for the relay, Jeff was not even aware that there was such an animal
          Boone had mentioned it to me last week that there was a schematic to help diagnose these CR 1’s
          It is ready to test, I’m almost finished with the wiring, hoping I have it right
          I have had a rough time reading the schematics in some areas, and with the majority of the wires being unable to read, I had to number them by pin location off the two board plates
          One other thing I did was to purchase base plates for the CR 1 & 2 relays and have them mounted right side up on the top of the pc board holder
          On the welding I’m not that familiar with DCEN verses DC positive, I have a long ways to go on all the options
          I have a youngster that has much better eyes and a steadier hand than I have that will be doing the welding on the XB1200 Buell chrome moly frames for me
          If I can get this project up and running again, I’ll more than likely buy a newer Dynasty down the road for him to keep him happy, good help is hard to find
          I just took a hit for 3,500 today on my well pump failing, that I didn’t have set aside, should be finished tomorrow
          Been without water for 3 days now
          Crossing my fingers too, that the solder dust is not radioactive
          I will try in the morning to get that schematic for the CR1 and share it
          Here are pictures of the two boards that I took
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            Your trace fix for the PC board sounds great. Should do the trick. Don't worry about the solder dust-it's not radioactive. Darkened spots on PC boards by hot components are not unusual. I'm just still amazed at the disintegrating solder.

            Boy, do I ever get the "youngster with better eyes". I used to be a pretty good weldor; now, even with the best hood, cheater lens, and glasses, I embarrass myself regularly. Lots of time with the grinder now. Ophthalmologist says my eyes are fine (I'm thinking he politely leaves off the second part, "...for a guy your age!", but they sure aren't what they used to be!

            Not sure what you meant about DCEN vs. DC positive--did you just mean you usually run DCEP? Obviously depends on the filler material and process.

            That's bad news about your pump! One of those not-very-nice surprises in life!

            Anxious to hear how you make out when it's all back together.

            Comment


            • #7
              You won’t want to try tig welding in DCEP, it will make you sad and you’ll have disintegrating solder and tungsten, use DCEN.

              Comment


              • #8
                Well, I had the positive and negative mixed up
                It is always on the straight setting, must be negative because it normally works pretty good, except for the HF issue
                I have the same issues with my eyes, and the schematics in this tech manual has about made me blind
                I misunderstood the schematic for the CR1, there is no such thing, sooty about that
                i made my last call to the miller tech line, my issues have grown since I last posted and I can’t take it anymore, and they are tired of me calling
                I was about an inch short of picking up a hammer last night, frustrated to no end
                I turned on the switch, and cooked the relay repair right off the board and my lights hanging over the welder began flickering AND !!! they were not turned on
                Im so sick of working on this darn thing, and my throat is hoarse from all the cussing I’ve been doing
                I am totally confused now, I pulled both of the relays out of the sockets, turned the machine back on and am getting a 70 volt draw from the volt meter
                If I disconnect the number 1 wire from the T2 transformer, the dead short goes away
                If I turn on the switch, and slide the PC1 board out, the dead short goes away
                Two nights ago, when I first noticed the draw, and I had pulled the two relays, I said to heck to it
                I flipped the HF switch to continuous and the arc never varied for 30 minutes and I only seen the volt meter skip a downward decent a couple of times
                Who knows what I have now, I’m thinking a few pounds of copper and a 4 wheel cart
                Must not be in the HF region, or the points would have dropped the spark, I think I’m just wasting my time to try anything else
                Don't really need a stick welder, could tear it all out and put the eBay HF kit in it for 85.00 but why bother

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sounds like you are just ready to move on to another welder!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Man, that sucks.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I’m looking at Everlast
                      They have a 5 year warranty
                      I was thinking this morning the pc1 board where the 117&118 wires come in from the t2 transformer have diodes, maybe one of those went south, causing a back feed
                      The number 81 wire coming from the Hall device also shows a circle instead of a solid dot between the pc1 and the pulser going to td3
                      Can’t figure that out either what that signifies
                      I have the feeling when I pulled everything out, I got something back wrong of the two terminal strips
                      The 86,81,11&21wires have several different pathways and I joined them all together possibly causing a catastrophe
                      Shoot, it’s probably something looking me right in the eye, I’m going to take one more look, not being one to give up
                      Jeff at miller had also mentioned that the earlier machines were not so complicated and that I might have to back up to an earlier version schematic to get around what is wrong, another way over my head issue
                      Thanks for the suggestions, I was hoping this case might have been helpful for someone else in the future

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        So here is the latest
                        inside this old girl, is a very sizable resistor sitting right below the fan that the number 2&3 wires connect to, then are jumped to the volt meter gauge
                        Not knowing enough about electronics, is a bad thing for me which you all know by now
                        Im guessing most of you have probably seen at least one board or more that have adjustable pots with a screw in the middle, that are used to fine adjust circuitry, then sealed with paint
                        I never gave it one thought that cleaning up the wiring rats nest inside, would cause any issues until I discovered it yesterday
                        Now it makes sense why so many wires were several inches longer than they needed to be, and were wrapped, and or folded over each other
                        I’m pretty sure this is why I had the 70 volt draw that I mentioned in a previous post
                        I began yesterday, going back through the wiring, and located one ground wire that I had rerouted
                        When I added the 10” back into this wire and moved the ground connection, the volt meter dropped to 35 from the previous 70
                        My next move will be to determine the other numbered wires with multiple wires each, and try to figure out how they were originally
                        If I can get the gauge to read no load, I might get this machine working
                        one good thing, the CR1 relay board repair held, but neither relay is energizing now
                        Just chasing demons at the moment

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well, I found the short
                          For some reason, I thought that the 68&69 wires were tied together if there wasn’t a spot weld feature installed
                          When I clipped the wires, the short was gone, but so was the energy to the relays
                          I could manually switch the Cr1 with the Hf on start and it would time out
                          Im going to tear the welder down and put the parts on a shelf, maybe someone here will need something someday, time to move on
                          My email is [email protected]
                          Ya all take care, Randy

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Man, sorry it came to that but sometimes you just have to cut your losses, and move on, as you say. Hope you can find a good replacement.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X