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  • #16
    Originally posted by Climber View Post
    sent the main PC board off and got it back with no report on the problems.
    A polite reminder is what's required.

    But off/on the topic, when you take your car in to be fixed and handed the bill...am I the only guys who asks to see the parts replaced, an explanation why they were replaced? Before paying the bill test driving to ensure the repairs were done correctly and the issues solved? Well, I don't really take mine to the shop, screwed to many times I fix it myself, but I tell my kids, this is what you should do, what should be expected from them as a service being provided and to instill honesty In a name or reputation. And never pay with debit or cash. Credit card in case of dispute.

    "yea we did a circuit test, the resister #35 shows a weakness which seems to have caused a current spike to the flux capacitor causing the neutron dance reactor to fry when the excessive current was passed into it. ".

    " Oh yea...and these are the parts we replaced, it should run like new". " Here's a print out". "And an air freshener". " And a loyalty card for a free oil change". " I do hope you had a doughnut and coffee while we kept you waiting?".

    I went yesterday to look at a dead Kia. Seems the shop took it apart to diagnose and then said this is the cost to repair? This is what I was told?

    Now I'm no mechanic, but I know enough that this wasn't required.
    They were supposed to put it back together as it did run, poorly, but going in it was a runner? Two weeks later they hadn't and he had it towed home after paying the bill.
    I asked him, why didn't you leave it there and send them a polite registered letter expressing your disappointment. Never thought of it was the reply.

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    No harm to make the inquiry. But if you do please let us know.


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    • #17
      What Noel said... It also helps to let us know what/how you tested to get to the components for replacement/repair. I looked a little more at the manual last night, and think the issue is isolated to the display meter board. It would most likely show a HLP 001 code or the machine would not work at all if there was a problem on the main board that would cause display issues. But it all starts with ensuring you have 35V power to the display board.

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      • #18
        Well, the question of where to start should have been: What voltage is the machine specified for, and what voltage are you supplying to it? If that was confirmed, I missed it.

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        • #19
          Well, the question of where to start should have been: What voltage is the machine specified for, and what voltage are you supplying to it? If that was confirmed, I missed it.
          Yeah, as a tech, "check the power supply" is always the first thing I do.

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          • #20
            Yeah that's my bad... I overlooked the "I am new to this" and went straight to the "all is working but the display" part...

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            • #21
              I never trust "all is working" until I understand what testing they did and what instruments they used.

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              • #22
                Ok I've checked and I'm not getting 35V emailed the company that rebuilt my board. They claim to have tested all components. Told me to call Miller and gave me a number. Called Miller they said check to see if I'm getting 35v to the display (as jjohn76) had said. So after work I'll check one more time before sending the main board back to Innovat. Will update when I know more thanks all

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                • #23
                  Innovat said that they had to do a lot of work to my board replacing 2 voltage regulators and 6 IC's whatever that means also fixed a circuit in the board.

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                  • #24
                    Ok, the 35V that goes to the display board does not go through a voltage regulator, and feeds both the 5V and 15V circuits. So if you're able to have it do anything, you should have 35V at the display connector. Do you have 35V across pins RC8-1 and RC8-4 on the main board?
                    if so, check continuity on the plugs and wires between the two boards. If not, find SR1 (should be the pin closest to the edge of the board and the big capacitor) on the main board and check continuity from there to pin RC8-1. Also check continuity from resistor R56 (both ends) to pin RC8-4. One of the two ends of resistor R56 should be connected directly to that pin. If you're having trouble finding R56, it's between the two heatsinks. Hope this helps.
                    Jon
                    Last edited by jjohn76; 10-23-2019, 03:03 PM.

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                    • #25
                      Better yet, check resistance on the main board from pin RC8-4 to RC1-18 (should not be open or shorted bit equal to R58's value) and use your diode tester to check from RC8-4 (positive lead) to RC1-4 (negative lead). There should be somewhere between .2V and .9V (should be, I don't know the specs of diode D26 to confirm). If you reverse the leads, it will show open loop, so be sure to have the leads the right way. This way you're not voiding any InnovatCorp warranty work with evidence of tampering (holes in the conformal coating) if there is something wrong on the board.

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                      • #26
                        Sorry for the delay. So sent the PC board back to Innovat Corp it checked out good then sent my display board a it was bad and outdated they gave me a core and I paid to have it rebuilt all back and welder is up and running. Thanks all.

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                        • #27
                          All told im in to a Miller 251 for right about $1300. I know it's not a smokin deal but I'm ok with that. I'm half the price of a new model

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                          • #28
                            The 251 was the final attempt by CowLedge trained chimps at Supergiantworldwidemegacorp in Corporate's attempt to recreate the Miller Electric MM-200 into an electronic nightmare with a pathetic arc.
                            Corporate bean counters pulled the plug after 251 and replaced the chimps with new chimps and gynoamericans to meet EEOC goals.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Climber View Post
                              Sorry for the delay. So sent the PC board back to Innovat Corp it checked out good then sent my display board a it was bad and outdated they gave me a core and I paid to have it rebuilt all back and welder is up and running. Thanks all.
                              While not much for help, what's not to like about a h
                              appy ending.
                              I salute the effort you extended and the follow up reporting the success.

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                              • #30
                                Glad to hear it's working!

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