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Pitted rust in loader bucket

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  • #16
    I dont really see any point in welding up those spots. Or painting it really. The paint is probably just going to scrape off. If it lasted 40 years Id say you definitely got your money out of it. If it was me Id just use it till it falls apart and then build or buy a new one. If you want to weld those spots run a wire wheel over the area to get as much as the rust off as possible. Then Id burn in quick 6010 on both sides. You just want to seal up the gap so the next pass doesn't pull up all the crap so you can just drag the rod in like welding an open root if you want. After that give it a quick grind to remove the slag and crap and run a 7018 over both sides. Done deal. If you want to go the mig route I'll just say good luck. When you want to paint it maybe look into those rust conversion coatings. That or take a wire wheel all over it.

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    • #17
      So here is where my current thinking is. First, I would like to reduce the water that gets inside the bucket structure. If I seal up the backside of the bucket, that will help. I can do it with metal, or I could use some kind of body sealer. I think metal makes sense. I would also like to seal up the front side for the occasional time that the bucket gets water standing in it. That would have to be with metal.

      I could also have a strip of angled 11 ga made which I would just layer on to the existing seam in the inside of the bucket as shown in the photos. Or I could wait until things deteriorate further. I think I would like to stop the cancer now.

      So I am thinking a knotted wire wheel to clean things off. My hammer is MIG, so I am thinking of using CO2 as it tends to work better on rusty farm equipment.

      If used frequently, painting a bucket is nearly worthless. Three years ago, using a $1 paint can from a dollar store, I painted the one side of the bucket. It has more paint on than off, and I am happy with the results. I have fenders to paint for a car this summer, and the car is black. So I will buy a little extra paint, and paint the bucket. It puts a date in the sand for having any repairs done.

      The cutting edge weld is cracked, so I will clean that up, grind it down and figure out how to repair the cracked edge seam. That may be the job that has me going stick, but my first inclination is to use MIG, as that is my hammer. I don't get allot of time to weld so I try to leverage what I can do. Up to just 4 years ago, I only had gas welding equipment.

      I could use a hook or two on my bucket, so I have something else to think about. But I think some rebuild, repair the cutting edge, epoxy primer and some black urethane paint, and at least it will look cared for. I need another 35 years or so.


      • #18
        Originally posted by mongobird View Post
        I need another 35 years or so.
        Good luck with that.


        • #19
          You got a local vehicle spring shop in town? Get a slab of new leaf from there for the cutting edge if you want to do a total replacement. You can put it onto the bucket lip with E70-s6 using skip, and when you're done you'll have a 50 year edge. You want 65 years use 309 SS to weld it.

          Bear warp control in mind as you weld the edge.

          Back corners are a traditional mud collecting PITA, don't matter who made the bucket.
          Eliminate the problem by snipping cardboard or politician signs to make a pattern to eliminate the corner. By loosing about a quart of bucket capacity you eliminate corner rot.

          Far as paint on buckets goes, nonfibrated asphaltic roof coating thinned with mineral spirits. It works, it's cheap and it drys in a few days. Paint on any earth engaging surface is a waste of paint.


          • #20
            I think the paint is on there to protect the parts that don't get regularly run through the dirt.

            Do you not have a stick welder? If you do, I'd suggest again that you consider that process for this repair.

            On your cutting's likely something other than mild steel. If the weld is cracked down the middle, then you should consider a welding allow that is better suited for that repair, something with greater ductility. Although it did last for 40 years, which is dang good.

            I would expect body filler to crack out, but I'm also not a body filler guy, so that's merely a guess.

            And for closing up that seem so water doesn't get in, man, just brush the surface rust off and run a 7018 down it.

            Solid wire will just eat up a lot more of your time on cleaning and prep. Let's be honest man, it's a loader bucket. An old loader bucket. Covered in rust. That screams welding rod.

            But you could pressure wash it and soak it in an electrolysis bath for a few days if you want. That'll darn sure get all the rust off.


            • #21
              Body filler will crack out as it is hard. There is a mastic, which is paintable, which is used for sealing seams.