Implement pin hole pound out repair

[mongobird]

I have a backblade plow which I use for snow plowing. For about 30 years. I am pretty gentle with it, but the holes for the pin which keeps the plow angle have pounded out to elongated, odd shaped holes. I was trying to figure out how to repair them. If I weld a plate on top of them, the pin will rack more because of the space between the fixed holes and the holes on the plow. So I am thinking of filling the holes using MIG, and then grinding to the dimension needed for the pin. That way I can make things rather snug, using a die grinder.

The holes are rather close together, with about 3/8" spacing between them. The material they are in is 1/4" steel. The implement is a 7' back blade similar to what Tractor Supply might sell. So it is not a beefy Woods, or something like that.

Any suggestions or ideas? What has worked well in the past?

[ryanjones2150]

Ya man, use what ya got. I would probably tig it if I could.

Without seeing it and just thinking out loud, you can bevel it back a little so you don't get any trapped pockets of nothing in there, clamp a heavy-ish chunk of aluminum on one side and weld it up.

Bing bang done.

[Willvis]

I was going to suggest tig as well but an aluminum or copper backing plate is a good idea. Clamp it over the hole and blast in a weld nice and hot. Re drill holes after, its only 1/4"

[ryanjones2150]

Ya man, a copper bar would be excellent for that.

[Bls repair]

Would you be able to make a new piece with fresh holes and thicker to replace worn out piece?

[farmer welder]

Cut or drill the hole larger. And weld in a steel bushing Like it"s done on digger buckets.
If you have space. You could use a deeper bushing than the original hole.

[snoeproe]

Heavy equipment buckets/booms and articulated hinges are usually repaired by line boring then welding in a new sleeve or
by build up with weld, then line
boring for the pin installation. This removes all slop and gets everything tight again.

[tarry99]

Not knowing exactly what your doing.................But here is something I do for holes that I know will take a beating while not sacrificing much additional weight.............These are off road axle link brackets......the base material is .250 mild steel.....I add these cheek plates over the area where axle links would be attached to..........which adds in this case another .125 of layered strength to the shear holes per side........ .250 + .125 = .375 ..........The larger the area and the thicker the plate in theory the longer the life of the hole........I also sometimes stick a sleeve in......or a single machined washer for a blind hole but the plating seems to work when room permits. Keeping things tight and clamped down via proper torque and the correct fastener size is also Important. Hope this helps.

[ryanjones2150]

Once he locates the repaired hole correctly, I think that is an excellent idea. Looks good too.

[MMW]

I think this is being over thought. The original post states he has used this for 30 years and the holes are now elongated. He asked about putting some weld in the holes and then die grinding them to fit. Sounds like a simple plan and an easy fix. These are not high tolerance parts. All other ideas will work also but keeping it simple is good.

[ryanjones2150]

Agreed. But the pictures tarry posted look cool and cmon, who doesn't like a little line boring every now and then?

[Franz©]

Oddly the OP hasn't stopped back since he dropped this turd post.

In the interest of doing such jobs right (a long lost concept) I'll just mention rebuilding pin holes rarely solves the problem in devices of this nature. Experience says when the pin holes begin to wear it's time to find the slop in the mechanism the pin holds and repair or rebuild it back to a point where the pin can do its job.

Of course there are and always will be repeat customers who only want the problem they can see "solved". In such cases a weldor will index the assembly to the desired location, clamp to hold, and drop a carbon button into place to weld to. After cooling the carbon can be knocked out and usually there is no need for any machining, boring, or anything beyond billing.

[mongobird]

Oddly the OP hasn't stopped back since he dropped this turd post.

Sidetracked with crisis. Back again, and all posted read and noted. It sounds pretty stupid, but after looking at things again, there are two out of 7 holes elongated. The supplied pin is smaller than the supplied holes. I am thinking of starting with a pin which is real snug on the original holes, and seeing how loose things are in the most used position.

Rest assured this is just the starter project. I after I do this, I will be looking at other stuff, including the loader. My goal is to have urethane on the tractor and loader before fall. So I have some challenging repairs ahead of me.

Just in from spending the day on a mower jackshaft. But that is not a welding topic, but it is keeping me from welding.