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  • Syncrowave 250 quit working

    I have a Syncrowave 250, older one early 90's, just used for stick welding at a golf course. Was using it one day and went to use it the next and nothing. Over the years, when turning the machine on it would not arc right away and would need to be turned on and off several times but always started working eventually. doing some basic troubleshooting I found that I would get a slight arc when the "ac balance" knob is turned all the way up, but nothing when it is set to 3. no obvious problems under the cover. any direction would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Eric

  • #2
    I have a 250 also. Will yours make a tiny spark at all or nothing? The wire from the transformer go up through a Hall device. It is an obsolete part. Original part number is 156313. You can replace it with part number 124684. I searched all over the USA and Canada. I found one in Ontario at an old welding repair shop. He said he only had the one. Fixed mine. It is called a current transducer. Hope this info helps you.

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    • #3
      I get a small arc when the AC balance is turned all the way up, if set to normal position for stick welding I get nothing. I tried unplugging the Hall device and it worked, but it was wide open no amperage control. I'm not sure if this result means a bad current trans or if it another part that the trans plugs into?
      Last edited by kepink; 04-29-2019, 10:15 AM.

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      • #4
        I have 3 of the156313 part number curent transducer in good working order

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        • #5
          Where are you located at?

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          • #6
            If the hall device is reading to high of voltage I think the pc1 board will not let it have what it needs to operate.

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            • #7
              Sus*** wisconsin

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              • #8
                I'm in Florida, not sure who you were asking. so the unit does nothing with the hall device plugged in and with it unplugged it works, but no amperage control, melts whole stick. Am I looking at a bad hall device (current trans) or a bad pc1 board? Ron, sounds like you are saying the hall is sending a bad reading to pc1 so the hall is bad? Weld Dr, what is the price of the part you have? My email, [email protected].
                Thanks for the help.
                Eric

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                • #9
                  Check your p/m we can deal on the cost in private

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                  • #10
                    Kepink if you have a bad pc1 board you can get it repaired at York Electronics in Louisville,Ky. Steve York is the owner. His phone number is 1-800-669-3593. Or [email protected]

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                    • #11
                      I have the syncrowave 250 #KA777166 bought it used in 2004 and love it . I use it in all the ways it capable of being used in my business. a/c, d/c, d/c reverse on many metals . SO last week I was stick welding in A/C all day off and on. NEXT DAY turned it on and I couldn't get a arc. checked connections and obvious human factors ans still nothing. Gave up and used a different back up welder. next time I turned on the 250 it worked, all day different modes etc. today im tearing into it checking voltage, current thru switches risking my life cause I am a welder not an electrician. the main switch is good.
                      no weld power but the fan and the high frequency work, Any one have an inkling what the fix might be. any parts for my Dinosaur available?

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                      • #12
                        Any number of possibilities, but considering the age of this machine, I would first click the contactor switch (REMOTE/ON, I think) back and forth a couple of dozen times.

                        If that doesn't work, I would next find wires 101 and 105 , (TURN POWER OFF) where they come off of the PC1 board (Find number 16 on figure 10-1 in the manual) and jumper them together with a test lead. Jumpering them near the board bypasses both the potentially bad switch and a potentially intermittent thermal cutout down in the transformer, as well as a bunch of potentially faulty wiring. Turn POWER ON and try welding.

                        If it doesn't work, the problem is probably on the PC board, or somewhere downstream of it. If it works then, WITH POWER OFF, put an ohmmeter between the same two wires in place of the jumper and flip the switch back and forth. You should see OL/Overload/infinite resistance with the switch in REMOTE, and zero ohms, or very close to it, in the ON position.

                        If you don't see those readings, move the leads of your ohmmeter to wires 105 and 104 on the switch itself and try again. If it doesn't show those open/closed readings there, you have a bad switch. If it does, the switch is OK.

                        If OK, next connect your ohmmeter between wires 104 at the switch and 101 at the circuit board. You should see zero ohms. If not, you have a bad thermal cutout in the transformer. If you do get zero ohms or very close to it, the problem is most likely on the PC board. Post what you find out and we'll go from there. Don't get zapped!
                        Last edited by Aeronca41; 03-19-2020, 02:34 PM. Reason: Fixed typo-last para said "wires 104 at the switch and 102 at the circuit board." that's an error--102 corrected to 101.

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                        • #13
                          Here's the manual if you don't have one

                          https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O353B_MIL.pdf

                          There are multiple schematic diagrams in the manual. You need the one in Figure 8-1A,
                          circuit diagram number C-132 697-A
                          Last edited by Aeronca41; 03-19-2020, 02:36 PM. Reason: Added info to define which schematic diagram is correct for this machine

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