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Help My poor ol 330A/BP

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  • Thomas G
    started a topic Help My poor ol 330A/BP

    Help My poor ol 330A/BP

    Hi all. I am hear in hopes of finding info on my broken 330A/BP. It just happened. I used to work fine. I have not used in 2 years as I was building a new shop. I have not used the AC.
    Here is what I have so far. When striking an arc, it has to be maxed out on the peddle/ dial and on HI setting. This results in just enough power to weld a 1/8in. Low setting won’t come close.
    Current does go up and down with controls. Does not seem to work with HF on. But does in continuous. Work is grounded. Cleaned terminals. Can hear gas flow. HF dial was bypassed by previous owner.
    SN HK243969. Down loaded manual. Check HF gap .009. Took panels off and blew out dust. Tried again and found resistor (core control set pt# 290) on top GLOWING bright orange! and varnish melting.
    Diode appears to be OK. .5 volt drop one way open the other. I have ordered what I think will be proper replacement for these two parts but I doubt it will fix it.
    I am contemplating purchasing another machine for parts. Anyone have any suggestions? I think I covered all I’ve done.

  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    There ya go, throwin' around them there insults. Helga ain't no beast, sir. She is an exquisitely crafted example of some fine American machinery. Just because you need a gantry crane or hoist to move her around don't give a guy no reason to poke fun at her.

    Leave a comment:


  • Helios
    replied
    Be sure to let us know how it all works once you have her buttoned back up. We need all the intel we can get to keep these old beasts buzzin!

    Leave a comment:


  • Aeronca41
    replied
    Thomas, congrats on the success! Good work!

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  • Burnt hands
    replied
    Thomas,

    Glad to help out.

    It's a good feeling to find that some of the stuff
    I've collected over the years can still live a second life.

    Now you just need to name your welder like Ryan.

    Leave a comment:


  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Ya man, poke your head back in sooner rather than later. There's usually someone to help or make fun of.

    Leave a comment:


  • Thomas G
    replied
    Bin a little under the weather lately. Thanks to Burnt Hands I have new diodes and my monster back up and running. A big thanks to all here that helped. It's not completely put back together yet. I want to do a couple things before I button it up.
    I'm not much of a forum contributor, but I'll be checking every so often. I don't know much about tubes, radios, cap, and such. I'm more of a piston, cam, paint, and fab guy. I sure don't need any more projects or hobbies.
    RyanJones.... I do like the 73. heck I like most pre 80 vehicles.

    Leave a comment:


  • Helios
    replied
    I love the raw, 60Hz solar-wind sound of Hendrix's overdriven old Marshall tube preamp at Woodstock...

    https://youtu.be/TPt8vegXAx0?t=62

    Too bad the recording is so muddy. There's not much sweeter than a Stratocaster's single-coils singing through an overdriven tube preamp at air-carbon arc gouging volume. Got harmonics? Where's Gilmour and Clapton?

    But I digress.What were we talking about, again?
    Last edited by Helios; 03-23-2019, 06:28 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aeronca41
    replied
    Yep--that was real he-man electronics!

    Leave a comment:


  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    My first short wave radio set up was a heath kit 10meter and 2kw amp. The amplifier had two big vacuum tubes in it. I thought it was the coolest thing to fire that sap sucker up and listen to those tubes warm up and hummmmmm away. I wish I had that old rig still.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aeronca41
    replied
    I never had the initiative to just call and ask--just kept wondering. You're the man, Ryan. And so now we know, it's pretty much meaningless! All we need to know is how to spell it.

    I remember when motor oil designators were really simple and actually meant something: ML, MM, MS, DG, DS for services Mostly Light, Mostly Moderate, Mostly Severe, Diesel General, and Diesel Severe. ML was non-detergent. Long, long ago.....hadn't thought of that in years until you posted this. Just more useless trivia cluttering the mind. I often think about the amount of time I spent learning design principles for vacuum tube amplifiers: now, there is real useless mind clutter! It was already pretty much obsolete by the time I got into the workplace. I guess it does help today when I start trying to fix some antique radio or amplifier.

    Leave a comment:


  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    That's a prime specimen of 1973 all American steel there Thomas, you blasphemer you.

    On the A/BP....I called miller customer support this morning and asked. He brought up an old sales brochure for that machine and we had a chuckle. Basically, as I understand it, those letters mean something to Miller and nothing to the rest of us. They had different panels, an A panel and a B panel, one of the designators means it has water valves for torch cooling, high freq start, remote amperage adjustment....so basically nothing close to abbreviation for something that starts with and A/BP. Tech jargon I say. Kind of like the letter designators for what motor oils are good for which types of engines....or something. I think.

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  • Thomas G
    replied
    Burnt hands I sent you a PM

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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    Well, at least you found the problem, and and won't require tapping into the national debt to fix it.

    I assume the two types (current ratings) are used in either the 200A or 300A versions of the 330A/BP. I guess I'm a little surprised to see they selected a diode with less max current than the machine rating in both cases, but maybe they did some testing, proved the specs on the diodes were very conservative, and they could save a buck or two. Anyway, with these having even higher ratings, as Burnt says, you are building in even a greater margin of safety. I would definitely replace all four if it were mine.

    By the way, I've wondered this for years--anybody know what the letters A/BP mean in the 330 model number?

    Leave a comment:


  • Burnt hands
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    Thomas,

    It is safe to replace a diode with one with ratings above your original ones.
    According to the schematic I looked at, D1-D4 are either rated 150 amps at 300 volts or 275 amps at 250 volts.
    The ones I have are rated 300 amps at 400 volts which provide a good margin of safety.

    I have 4 and they are new or they were new when I bought them many years ago.
    Just sitting on a shelf gathering dust.
    They are straight polarity just like yours.

    The stud size is 3/4-16 not 3/4-20 as I mentioned earlier.

    https://www.vishay.com/docs/93508/vs-300urseries.pdf

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