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Stick Welding on 30 amp Breaker

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  • Stick Welding on 30 amp Breaker

    Hey y'all,

    I'm looking for some practical advice on stick welding using a 210 amp DC inversion stick welder using a 30 amp washing machine wall outlet.

    I'll have the appropriate "conversion" cord, with a 50 amp 3-prong female end (welder side) and a 30 amp 4-prong male end (outlet side).

    I'll be using a Hobart Stickmate 210i (seemingly identical to the new Miller thunderbolt 210 inversion welder).

    Any advice on how high I'll be able to run the welder without tripping the breaker? It goes up to 210 amps DC.



  • #2
    You can use a basic proportion to get a rough idea. How many amps does your welder draw from the outlet when running full-tilt at 210A welding current as per the manual?
    HTP Invertig221 D.V. Water-cooled
    HTP Pro Pulse 300 MIG
    HTP ProPulse 200 MIG x2
    HTP Inverarc 200 TLP water cooled
    HTP Microcut 875SC


    • #3
      Most washing machines are only 115v. So unless your welder is dual voltage, which I have no idea of anything on that machine. But if it is, then 30amps on 115v is about the best you'll get.

      Verify your power source first.

      But welding with a 30amp circuit all depends on the amperage you're running and the duration you're running it.


      • #4
        Since he said he has the correct 30A 4-prong plug, I'm assuming it's a NEMA 14-30 dryer receptacle.

        Short answer is that this is done everyday. You can do a LOT of welding from a 30A circuit, even with a non-inverter transformer machine. With your new inverter, you'll probably never tax the circuit. FWIW, I'm a professional electrician, and most of my welding has been done with a 30A circuit.


        • #5
          Thanks everyone!

          Yeah, duh, I meant to say dryer outlet, woops!

          I'll be using a 14-30p to 6-50r adapter cord.

          Oscar, I attached a screen shot from the manual, hopefully this will help.
          Attached Files


          • #6
            43amp input amps at 210 welding amps.

            But you might not need all 210 welding amps.

            Ed Conley
            Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
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            O/A set
            SO 2020 Bender
            You can call me Bacchus


            • #7
              So, doing a straight proportion:

              ​​​​​​210/43 = 146.5/30

              Does this mean welding at 147 amps would trip the 30 amp breaker? I know there's likely way more that goes into this (electrode size, work thickness, etc), but is this generally true?

              Again, thanks everybody for the answers. I've done all my welding with oxy-acetylene up til this point and experimenting with bigger stuff.


              • #8
                A 30A breaker will not trip when you hit 30A. It's a time-delay based on time AND amperage. The more amperage you go over, the shorter the time period it will allow it. What are you planning on welding? You machine is probably not capable of a duty cycle that will trip a 30A breaker even if you exceeded 30A of input for short periods of time.


                • #9
                  Get some rods, 1/8 and 3/32, start running them and find out.


                  • #10
                    Haha, **** yes, will do Ryan, already on it!

                    Wish me luck y'all!


                    • #11
                      If you start running 5/32 rods you may have some trouble, otherwise you should run any 1/8th just fine.
                      Also your cord length and your lead lengths factor in too.

                      Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
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                      • #12
                        My vote is you'll be fine if you stick to about 145A or less. There are other things at play such as wire conductor size (the smaller it is, the more voltage drop under actual load, and this increases the amperage (compared to a larger wire with less voltage drop)), also the age of the breaker sometimes plays a part. Sometimes older breakers just trip easier than brand spanking new ones. If you want to maximize the quality of this circuit (within reason of course), maximize the wire gauge size to minimize the voltage loss under load, and pop in a brand new 30A breaker if you're not sure how old the current one is.
                        HTP Invertig221 D.V. Water-cooled
                        HTP Pro Pulse 300 MIG
                        HTP ProPulse 200 MIG x2
                        HTP Inverarc 200 TLP water cooled
                        HTP Microcut 875SC


                        • #13
                          And if it's a federal pacific breaker box, change the sap sucker out today.


                          • #14
                            I'll second what Oscar said. I've solved a lot of breaker tripping issues over the years just by replacing with new ones.

                            The exception to the rule, as Ryan intimates, is Federal Pacific--those suckers will probably STILL be able to carry current without tripping long after they have been responsible for reducing your house or shop to a pile of ashes. And they have gotten away with a web search for the whole sordid story. I got a friend pretty upset with me a few months ago because I wouldn't add a new circuit for an electric water heater to an old F-P box. He had found an old used breaker I could install.....Nope! Wouldn't be able to sleep at night.


                            • #15
                              And there are new, replacement breakers out there being made for the old FP stab-loc panels. The bus on those panels is undersized and just as dangerous as their faulty, old breakers! I explained that to the local hardware store when I saw it and I pleaded with them to stop selling the replacements. No luck there.

                              Good to see you back, Wayne.