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Can't get the screws out of chain saw casting

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  • Can't get the screws out of chain saw casting

    I need to split the case on an old Homelite 150 chainsaw I was given by a friend because the saw has a hydrolock and Im guessing needs a new carb diaphragm, new needle and screens, but I can't remove the screws that hold the cases together. I gave them a shot of PB blaster and left them sit for a few minutes before I tried to remove them but so far it hasn't worked. I gave them another shot of PB blaster and am letting them sit overnight, but I'm sure they are going to remain unremovable, the screwdriver comes out of the screws heads no matter how much down force I place on the screw heads. I don't think the screws have ever been removed since the saw was built.

    I'm considering taking my Dremel tool and grinding a thin slot across the raised bosses the screws go down into to allow PB Blaster to reach the screws threads, unless you guys have a better way to do it. Thanks for any ideas. I'm afraid to use heat on such thin aluminum and perhaps have an explosion due to all the oil and fuel that maybe inside the closed cases.
    Last edited by tackit; 07-29-2018, 11:05 PM.

  • #2
    Buy an impact driver. It is a tool that turns the screw when you hit it with a hammer.

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    • #3
      I have used a hammer and a small chisel & then a punch to get them started or an electric impact driver or a manual impact driver. The manual one turns the bit when you strike it with a hammer.
      Like this- https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...et/A-p8311615e

      ---Meltedmetal

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      • #4
        yep
        That's the style

        www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
        Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
        MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
        Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
        Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

        Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
        Miller 30-A Spoolgun
        Miller WC-115-A
        Miller Spectrum 300
        Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
        Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

        Comment


        • #5
          I've tried the hammer and rattling the screw with short bursts with my bosch impact driver, which turned the head off one of the screws, I thought I broke it loose until the screw's head fell on the bench. I'm afraid of hitting the aluminum housing with a hammer type impact tool, it's not that thick, I don't think the cases would be able to take the force of the impact .

          I'm going to clean out the case best I can and fill the fuel tank with water and apply heat, the new carb kit comes with a new fuel tank filter, if heat doesn't work I'll slot the cases with my Dremel tool to create an opening for the PB Blaster to get to the threads.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by tackit View Post
            I've tried the hammer and rattling the screw with short bursts with my bosch impact driver, which turned the head off one of the screws, I thought I broke it loose until the screw's head fell on the bench. I'm afraid of hitting the aluminum housing with a hammer type impact tool, it's not that thick, I don't think the cases would be able to take the force of the impact .

            I'm going to clean out the case best I can and fill the fuel tank with water and apply heat, the new carb kit comes with a new fuel tank filter, if heat doesn't work I'll slot the cases with my Dremel tool to create an opening for the PB Blaster to get to the threads.

            Air scribes work great for backing out screw and small bolts. Especially where is worried about breaking the piece with more drastic measures.

            HTH
            Griff

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            • #7
              Originally posted by griff01 View Post


              Air scribes work great for backing out screw and small bolts. Especially where is worried about breaking the piece with more drastic measures.

              HTH
              Griff
              I'll look into that along with using a hammer and chisel to turn the heads if the heat doesn't work. the screws sit in a hollow so it's a bit hard to get to them, or I would try grabbing them with a pair of pliers.

              I'll go check on a air scribe, that sounds pretty cool.

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              • #8
                How big are these screws? All of the above have worked at times for me as well. I have also had good success, and usually as a last resort, an air chisel to turn the dadgum things.

                As for the penetrating oil, I have had good success using a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.

                Are you able to drill and EX-out the broke off stud?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                  How big are these screws? All of the above have worked at times for me as well. I have also had good success, and usually as a last resort, an air chisel to turn the dadgum things.

                  As for the penetrating oil, I have had good success using a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.

                  Are you able to drill and EX-out the broke off stud?
                  I haven't gotten a screw out yet so I can only guess it's size, by looking at the broken off screw it's a 3/16 Philips headed cap screw.

                  I should be able to drill it out, I left it soaking In PB blaster overnight as well as the two other screws that need to come out. I have three or four types of easy outs with the proper size drills so I'm hoping at least one type will bring the broken screw out.

                  I'll take pictures and post them tonight.

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                  • #10
                    Ah, you got a little climber's saw. That's what it looks like at least.

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                    • #11
                      I found a pic of the two screws that need to come out.

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                      • #12
                        Now it makes more sense the bit about putting. Couple of slits in the housing.

                        Worst case, you cut off those mounts, do a little aluminum build up and shaping, then a transfer punch to relocate the holes, drill and tap.

                        Fun project.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                          Now it makes more sense the bit about putting. Couple of slits in the housing.

                          Worst case, you cut off those mounts, do a little aluminum build up and shaping, then a transfer punch to relocate the holes, drill and tap.

                          Fun project.
                          I think I'll have to go slow, I ordered a product called Screw Grab, I used a product like it years ago to remove scope rings whose screws were buggered. It made a world of difference in the way the screwdriver gripped the screws, but of course, if the screw has been annihilated it won't do much good. I don't want to damage the saw if I don't have too.

                          Found this it's cheaper, canceled the other order. https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-47...QWBQX3ZBKG9ZY&
                          Last edited by tackit; 07-30-2018, 02:09 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Says it gives 700% increase in torque to back the screw out. No idea how it does that, but I'm interested in how it works for you.

                            Try that acetone and ATF mix. It's worked for me in the past. You don't need much. You could probably mix it up in a bottle cap and use an eye dropper.

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                            • #15
                              Hey tackit, one trick that's worked for me in the past is to get the screwdriver in the screw then hit the handle driving driver into screw with a hammer a few mild wacks then a hard one or two being careful not to hit it so hard it damages your chain saw. I've loosened up stubborn fasteners this way before. If that doesn't work maybe try a bigger hammer
                              alot like the impact driver others mentioned but you hit and try and turn in separate steps. Hope you get em out.

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