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Help repairing a 8' loader bucket

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  • Help repairing a 8' loader bucket

    Hi All,
    I have a 1993 Deere with quite a bit of rust as it was previously used to load salt. Its a good machine but needs work and I've been addressing it part by part. I use clamp on pallet forks to move large heavy stuff and the bucket is rotted and starting to cause concern.
    Any suggestions on how to go about the repair? Is it better to cut out the area and weld a patch or leave it in place and plate underneath?
    Ive read mixed suggestions on whether to preheat and how much. The material seems very thin (less than 1/8") and what type of material should be used for the patch? i was going to just use 7018 rod?

    thank you for the help,
    George
    Rotted bottom behind cutting edge both sides are rotted by the front edge

  • #2
    Some days you have to ask yourself when faced with something like this, do I want to work hard, do I care what other's think when viewing my work, how good you want it to look when finished and how much work do you want to go through to get it done.

    I got $5.00 that says it's mild steel, weld what you want to it and the appearance of quality over functionality will guide the repair.

    Yup...have at it. E7018 will work just fine. So would a chunk of plate brazed on to cover the hole. Bolted in place? Ok...welded.

    While I might get a thumbs down with this response, depending on the age, that blade was welded up in a manufacturing plant, most likely with SMAW if it's really old, GMAW or FCAW if it's newer in all likely hood. I can't visualize them doing much preheating on the assembly line because , I don't see much for higher carbon other then the blade and it's material thickness doesn't appear to be that thick? 1/2" ?

    However, while preheating could be done, it wouldn't do much more then reduce your need slightly for welding current, and it would reduce the cooling and quench of the weld, improving toughness with ductility over higher tensile strength and hardness.

    As far as patching in or covering over...I'm lazy and going to do what easiest. If you brought it to me, I'd ask how much you could afford. I see functionality over appearance. Then again, I have better things to do. Get it up and running and do those things. Good luck and remember it's one man's opinion on the problem.

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    • #3
      Most times I do jobs like this I go over the top with a patch because the customer wants it cheap. It works fine and it's only a bucket. Sometimes I will cut out the bad spot and overlap the patch by about 1/2" all around and weld it on both sides. This eliminates stuff from getting packed in between the patch and old floor if there is a hole. 7018 is fine and pre heat is not necessary unless it is below freezing temps and then only the cutting edge and just to warm it up a little bit. Don't over think it. Patch should be just mild steel and I usually put it on the inside of the bucket.
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      • #4
        How are the ware plate shoes/pads on the
        bottom? How thick are they?
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        • #5
          Can’t really see the back of the bucket there, but rust is always worse than what you can see. If you slap on a patch, do it from the inside, like others have suggested. Unless you’re OCD, then cut the old bottom out to good steel and replace it. It’s not a piano.

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          • #6
            thanks for the replies. The wear pads / plate shoes on the bottom are over 3/4" thick.
            I am OCD but have given up on being so when it comes to this machine. Its a farm tool, I dont abuse it and repair it as best as reasonably possible. Ill clean it up and weld in a patch. I'm glad you guys said to go from the inside as I was going to do it from underneath. I'll overlap it so stuff doesnt get in or trapped.
            I have some 3/16th steel plate kicking around, that might just fit the bill.

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            • #7
              Perfect for a farm machine.

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