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Syncrowave 350 LX Problem with Arc Starting

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  • Syncrowave 350 LX Problem with Arc Starting

    Hello all. I am new to the forum. I am posting in hopes that somebody can help me diagnose an issue with a 2004 Syncrowave 350 LX Serial Number LE165223.

    I was welding on AC HF continuous and shut down my machine for the night. When I came back to my shop the following day and set up to weld I pressed my foot pedal and the arc did not strike. I could hear the gas flow and then I smelled something burning. I did a bit of research on this forum which led me to inspect the spark gaps. They were pretty charred up and had a gap of around .020"(Since purchasing this machine used from a welding school I had never checked these so who knows how long they had been like this). I tried cleaning them up and regapping to .012" per the manual and the problem was still the same. I ordered new spark points and installed them and also took the foot pedal to my work and tested it. The pedal worked fine on our shop machine.

    Next, I pulled the tins off and started trying to see if anyting looked out of place. The CR3 relay had some burn marks on the copper and smoke residue on the plastic and I replaced it. Still the same issue. Also, I could get the machine to start an arc if i touched the tungsten to the metal but I could not control the amperage with the foot pedal. It wasnt really a smooth lift start but just getting the tungsten to touch and spark and then a big hot messy arc. I also tried the machine on SMAW and it seemed to work correctly(first time I had used the stick feature since buying the machine).

    I consulted a local welding machine repair facility and ran down the symptoms and things that I had checked out and they told me that the problem was in the PC1. They told me to pull it and send it for rebuild and it would save me a lot of money from having them do it. I pulled the PC1 and had it rebuilt at EIC in Cartersville Ga. The tech that i spoke with afterward told me that there was definitely a problem with an area of the board(I believe he said an "analog circuit??"). They rebuilt the entire board as opposed to just repairing the damaged area.

    Now with the newly rebuilt board installed I still cant start the arc with my pedal however I can lift start and control the amperage with the pedal. I get a decent looking arc when I lift start. So far I have tried it only on DCEN with HF start and lift start. On HF start it will start the arc if i touch the tungsten to the metal and lift start actually seems to work okay.

    Does anybody have any clues as to where I should look next??? I would like to just bring this to a repair shop and nip it in the bud but I don't currently have a truck or a way to load this beast.

    I have read lots of postings here but haven't seen this exact problem listed. I have been tinkering with this thing for months and have tried all kinds of different settings so I am sure that I have left out some details. I just want to try to rule out the PC1 as soon as possble so if i have to send it back I can do it before too much time elapses.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Jason Waynick; 05-15-2018, 07:09 AM.

  • #2
    I had some issues with my helga a while back similar to what you're experiencing. Actually I had several small issues that some guys on this forum helped me iron out. The issue with my HF not starting the arc, like you're having, was traced back to the HF selector switch. The three pole switch for "start-off-continuous" was old and wore out. I discovered it by placing the machine in continuous and selecting "panel" instead of "remote", which activates the HF. I did this to see if I could find a bad connection. I found it at the switch. When I wiggled it, the HF would flicker. Replaced that $4 switch and now she's up and choochin.

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    • #3
      Thanks ryanjones2150 . I got in the machine again last night to see if anything else looked burnt or out of place. I tried resetting the CB1 breaker that controls the HF spark points. I just got the entire circuit board rebuilt which has the switch for the "start-off-continuous" on it. Not sure if they replaced or checked the actual switches. I'm going to call the electronics repair facility today and get a little more info. And tonight I'll try to mess with that switch and see if i can get it to function. I talked to my local welding machine repair and he couldn't really tell without taking a look at the machine. I'm going to bring it in possibly next week if i can't it figured out. I'm going to bring a spare pedal home from work today as well and try it. Our welder at work tried my pedal and it worked for him but since I didn't actually do it I need to rule that out for myself.

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