Rust proofing after welding Jeep chassis

[BOWTIEGUY]

Need to weld on a new shock bracket for a 95 Jeep Wrangler and anyone that knows Jeeps also knows that those frames love to rot out. There are vent holes near the area that will be welded..so my question is what process do you guys suggest for rust proofing the weld areas inside and out to keep the frame protected and solid.

Thanks

[Anarchy61187]

Chassis saver is probably the best/cost effective bet. Sticking with a K series chevy will cause less headaches over a heap of a jeep.

[ryanjones2150]

Hey now, easy on the heap of a jeep stuff. My jeep is a heap and she's sensitive about it.

[BOWTIEGUY]

Thanks guys..I bought the Jeep for my 11 year old grandson to drive around on the farm. Got him a 2WD S10 a couple years ago but got sick of pulling him out of the mud. I am a Chevy guy & have (2) related forums: www.RustyBowtie.com and www.3500HD.com

[Anarchy61187]

No disrespect intended, unfortunately my daily driver is a 99 Cherokee at the moment but the price was right. I've had 11 trucks 88-98 and still have 6 of them.
Back to the topic at hand, I've heard awesome things about that chassis saver as far as it will stop / kill the rust. I know some people that do a lot of body work and they swear by that stuff.

[BOWTIEGUY]

That stuff will work on the exterior. I have a couple gallons of Fluid Film which has high marks but needs to be reapplied each year. I'm thinking I could just spray the inside of the chassis via the vent holes and paint the outside with Chassis Saver..but also give the entire chassis a coating of Fluid Film each year.

[DATEC]

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...-15-ever.4204/

DO NOT use Po-15 or Chassis Saver or any variant of those products.

I highly and solely recommend SPI Epoxy only. I have been doing bodywork and restorations for 35yrs and when PPG changed their DP Epoxy (which was the best back in the day) SPI came into the scene and they have by far the best I have ever used and it is the only product I will recommend.

by the way that is my thread and is my truck that underwent the resurection.

[ryanjones2150]

You mean POR-15? How come? That's a serious question and not sarcasm. I ask because a friend of mine used that stuff on his tracker floor pans and I thought it sucked too, but I have no experience or reason to say that, other than I didn't like using it.

[FusionKing]

Heck I've had great luck with Rustoleum.

[DATEC]

You mean POR-15? How come? That's a serious question and not sarcasm. I ask because a friend of mine used that stuff on his tracker floor pans and I thought it sucked too, but I have no experience or reason to say that, other than I didn't like using it.

Yes POR-15 sorry for the typing error.

In the thread I posted you will see Pics of what happened to my truck after using that crap. The site under went a change and the pics had gotten deleted and I had to repost them so they appear further in the thread. What you see in some of the photos is me holding big flakes of Por both Black and Grey. those pieces were from a new rocker I installed. I coated both the inside and outside of the new rocker welded it on and just coated the other side's rocker and both sides completely failed at the same time. I had also coated the complete underside of the cab and you can see just small flakes left and the floor completely gone.

When I did the underside of the cab it was only coated with surface rust from me parking it in the grass after snow plowing and never washed it when I parked it, my big mistake for being lazy and knew I was in trouble.

What happens is it will allow the metal to rust underneath the coating, it can and will trap moisture, moisture and salt, etc. between it and the metal and you will never know it till it flakes off and the rust is far worse then when you painted it with the stuff.

My frame was coated with it also and the pics show how well it worked, I think they speak for themselves how good the stuff is and what someone can come to expect.

[DATEC]

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...69/#post-52475

Here is the truck done. It is completely done using SPI Epoxy and SPI base/clear only. SPI products are by far the best you can get. The new frame has 2gal of Epoxy and the cab was completely coated with their Epoxy inside and out, top to bottom and it still looks like the day I did it.

[ryanjones2150]

I told that guy it was a bad idea to use that stuff. I told him.

[Almond farmer]

Have had my 73 CJ5 since 1973, now on fifth paint project from the original "faraway green".
Been on the CJ5 forums, since forums first appeared.

Issue with POR-15 is the product is quite hard and easily cracks with off road metal flexing of the frame.
Vintage jeep
frames are made light weight on purpose and easily flex compared to light truck frames that are designed to haul heavy loads in the bed.
The high end method on restoration projects is epoxy primer, but quite toxic and requires lots of protection equipment.

Have always used gross black Rustoleum stops rust label, applied thick with brush on the frame and under body sheet metal and zero rust,
but do not store this Jeep near the ocean where salt air is an issue.

Suggest getting product catalog from Eastwood , which has many coating products for vehicle restoration projects.

Many jeep owners have cut out rusted regions and welded replacement metal.

[pat h]

I did por 15 on my 04 suburban after stripping the rust as best I could its holding up good so far I live in the rust belt it's gotta be better than nothing

[Crepe Myrtle Farmer]

Avoid Majic (found at Tractor Supply) and Eastwood. I've been using Sherwin Williams Automotive Paints and rubberized undercoats.