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Miller Trailblazer 302 idle only / meters not displaying

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  • walker
    replied
    Originally posted by Bobby Hadden View Post
    Okay thanks sorry about that and would you have their number
    LMGTFY, You can likely get through 1-800-4 A MILLER

    Leave a comment:


  • 1997CST
    replied
    I stopped jumping all new Trailblazers. I made a mistake with one that had a dead cell. We jumped it and pulled the cables after it started and fried both brand new boards. Now if a Trailblazer with a bad board comes in and won't crank it receives a new battery. Expensive lesson for sure and honestly we've jumped off hundreds of machines before without a hitch. Live and learn

    Leave a comment:


  • Bobby Hadden
    replied
    Okay thanks sorry about that and would you have their number

    Leave a comment:


  • walker
    replied
    Number one, start your own thread, you have a totally different welder.

    number two, call Miller tech support and have them walk you through trouble shooting your welder. Have the tin off and a multimeter handy.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bobby Hadden
    replied
    I have a Miller welder 275 trailblazer it has been jump started many times it has an intermittent problem now where if it won't idle down it won't weld so after reading your forms I took your advice and change the circuit board and I still have the exact same problem any ideas

    Leave a comment:


  • sduncan9
    replied
    Good morning. I know it has been a while, but I wanted to confirm that this was indeed the correct repair for this unit.

    Duaneb55, I agree with your assessment on the logic for disconnecting the battery when charging.

    Thank you again to all who jumped in and got involved! I do hope this helps others in the future!

    Cheers!

    Leave a comment:


  • duaneb55
    replied
    Duplicate post.

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  • duaneb55
    replied
    Any news on this?

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  • sduncan9
    replied
    Gentlemen, thank you for your feedback and following along, I have learned something again here (you can always learn something new...) and I hope this helps someone else.

    I will update next after the new boards arrive.

    Cheers!

    Leave a comment:


  • duaneb55
    replied
    No doubt it's a voltage spike that is the evil culprit and what you relayed of what the Miller tech said makes perfect sense. I didn't bother to dig into it but I've read in later manuals not to jump start but rather remove/disconnect the battery to charge it. I suspect this is to remove the temptation to crank it and avoid damage from a booster charger.

    I'd say there's a 99.999999999% chance the unit will work just fine with both new boards.

    Leave a comment:


  • Meltedmetal
    replied
    Originally posted by sduncan9 View Post

    Good morning Meltedmetal,

    I was in contact with Miller Tech support again this morning and possibly received some clarification on the board failures. His explanation was that with poor battery connections or a dead battery that is not working properly (not acting as a buffer) that when stopping cranking the engine the residual magnetism can induce a very brief but high voltage spike back into the electronics of the system which may damage one or more of the boards. In a good operating system this shouldn't happen, but I think if this is the case a warning not to jump start the welders would be a prudent thing.

    In this case the absence of battery voltage between pins 3 and 5 of RC21 (on PC1 with SW2 ON) indicates that there is damage to PC2 as well. In his opinion replacing PC1 alone would likely result in an immediate failure so he recommends replacing both PC1 and PC2. I now have both boards on order (about $2300 CAN).

    At this point I have not seen any obvious component failures on the boards but will look closer after they are replaced. As I understand it PC2 is a multilayered board so damage to the center traces may not be visible and may be hard to repair.

    Thank you for being involved!
    Thanks for the update. I wouldn't have thought it would be extremely difficult/expensive to protect those boards from voltage spikes but I'm not an electronic engineer.
    $2300 CAD , ouch, ouch. Hope you get it purrrrring soon.
    ---Meltedmetal

    Leave a comment:


  • sduncan9
    replied
    Originally posted by Kpack View Post
    Would you be able to jump one from a battery of a vehicle with out the vehicle running ?
    From what I have been told and read, I believe it would be best to charge the battery without trying to start it and the safest thing would be to recharge the battery with the cables disconnected. Having said that if there was ever any question, replace the battery, that expense would be a lot easier to handle than the two boards. Also, check the voltage output when charging to make sure there has been no damage to the voltage regulator that may cause problems.

    Having said that in the real world, I know I have jumped welders more often than I should apparently. An expensive lesson learned....

    Leave a comment:


  • sduncan9
    replied
    Originally posted by Meltedmetal View Post
    Thanks for the responses. I don't question that it happens. I guess maybe one would have some clues to track it down if they had the board diagrams and knew which parts are the parts that fail. Am I correct that it is only the Trailblazer series that is susceptible to this and not all Miller engine drives?
    All I can think of is that it must be some strange current flow caused by the inrush current into the dead battery maybe by not connecting the ground battery to battery. Even if I had one I don't think I'd test out that theory though. It is a mystery.
    ---Meltedmetal
    Good morning Meltedmetal,

    I was in contact with Miller Tech support again this morning and possibly received some clarification on the board failures. His explanation was that with poor battery connections or a dead battery that is not working properly (not acting as a buffer) that when stopping cranking the engine the residual magnetism can induce a very brief but high voltage spike back into the electronics of the system which may damage one or more of the boards. In a good operating system this shouldn't happen, but I think if this is the case a warning not to jump start the welders would be a prudent thing.

    In this case the absence of battery voltage between pins 3 and 5 of RC21 (on PC1 with SW2 ON) indicates that there is damage to PC2 as well. In his opinion replacing PC1 alone would likely result in an immediate failure so he recommends replacing both PC1 and PC2. I now have both boards on order (about $2300 CAN).

    At this point I have not seen any obvious component failures on the boards but will look closer after they are replaced. As I understand it PC2 is a multilayered board so damage to the center traces may not be visible and may be hard to repair.

    Thank you for being involved!

    Leave a comment:


  • Kpack
    replied
    Would you be able to jump one from a battery of a vehicle with out the vehicle running ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Meltedmetal
    replied
    Thanks for the responses. I don't question that it happens. I guess maybe one would have some clues to track it down if they had the board diagrams and knew which parts are the parts that fail. Am I correct that it is only the Trailblazer series that is susceptible to this and not all Miller engine drives?
    All I can think of is that it must be some strange current flow caused by the inrush current into the dead battery maybe by not connecting the ground battery to battery. Even if I had one I don't think I'd test out that theory though. It is a mystery.
    ---Meltedmetal

    Leave a comment:

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