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Mild/stainless tig help, need proper guidance

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  • Mild/stainless tig help, need proper guidance

    Hey guys,
    New to the forums so if this post is not meant to be here ill move it to where it is specified.

    I am very much an amateur when it comes to tig welding and have been practicing lately, but ive gotten to a point where i need to make someone else take a look at my work and situation so i can get an answer as to whats going on. I have dug many hours into research and cant seem to find answers.

    I first started out on mild steel throwing down some beads pretty decently for my first time, I dont have pictures as i dont have the metal anymore however there were a couple of things wrong that i can talk about.

    1) There was porosity in my welds. Tried turning the gas up and down, no bueno. I currently run 7-8lpm when welding with pure argon. Have gone up to about 11 and down to 6 each way and same result. This is with 2.4mm thoriated tungsten and 2.4mm filler rod. This is with mild steel and stainless which i have included pictures of.

    2) My tungsten blacks out immediately after my first weld run, Just the tip. I run a pre flow of 1 second and post flow of about 4 seconds and every time the tungsten still ends up blacking out. I generally use 2.4mm thoriated tungsten with a size 7 cup and when 1/4in mild steel i use the pedal with max amps set to about 100. This is the same with stainless.

    3) My stainless welds glow red hot after turning the touch off after trying to attempt a run which i dont see in anyone elses welds, they have a black dull colour and just look horrible. I do hold the torch close to the weld after letting the throttle go to let the post flow of argon do its thing.

    Cant upload any pictures but they are as i described, the file sizes are apparently too big

    Any help would seriously be appreciated, i need to get out of this rut.

  • #2
    What machine?
    Are you certain you are on DCEN?
    Are you certain you have gas flow at the cup?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by standby View Post


      Cant upload any pictures but they are as i described, the file sizes are apparently too big

      Any help would seriously be appreciated, i need to get out of this rut.
      http://www.resizemypicture.com/ ...Bob
      Bob Wright

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      • #4
        I've never used less than 12 on the argon. Your numbers seem very low. I'd go 15-20. More if you're outside

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        • #5
          7 - 9 lpm is 15 - 19 CFH, which is the scale most of us are using. Numbers should be fine for indoors, especially if you went as high as 11 during testing.

          11 is, like, totally maximum...


          Are you using 100% argon? What kind of flowmeter are you using?
          Last edited by MAC702; 01-12-2018, 07:38 PM.

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          • #6
            Sorry. Didn't catch that

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            • #7
              Legend bob cheers for that! Here are some stainless pictures.

              As for a machine i have a Cigweld 200ac/dc (feels a little unorthodox posting on another companies forum haha) I am 100% on DC and fairly certain i am getting flow to the cup. I can tell this by feeling the rush of gas on mu fingers when i hit the pedal for a quick second.

              AS for argon im using a bittle of argon 52, which im sure is 100% argon and i am just using a standard flow meter straight off the bottle.
              Last edited by standby; 01-12-2018, 08:33 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by standby View Post
                ... I am 100% on DC ...

                I am just using a standard flow meter straight off the bottle.
                He was asking about your polarity on DC, Is your torch on the negative or positive output?

                I'm assuming "standard" means the cheap flow gauge (a calibrated regulator) that came with a cheap machine, not a "standard flowmeter" with a floating ball, but confirm the latter if so. But if you are feeling the gas, that is probably not your problem, though we reserve the right to readdress it.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by standby
                  ...AS for argon im using a bittle of argon 52, which im sure is 100% argon...
                  Actually, your Argon 52 is the problem. It contains O2 and CO2. It is designed for a spray-transfer MIG process.

                  http://supagas.com.au/wp-content/upl...tech-sheet.pdf

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                  • #10
                    Sorry i didn't really know what you meant by what type of flow meter, its a floating ball meter. The torch is negative.

                    I just had a chat with my father, who actually bought the gas quite a while ago. I remember him very clearly say it was 100% argon, spoke to him just a moment ago and now hes said its not. Pays not go off what other people say hahaha.

                    Anyway I should have done that research myself, thanks for pointing that out mac really appriciate it. Ill be buying a new bottle in the coming days, will update this post when i do
                    Last edited by standby; 01-13-2018, 12:13 AM.

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