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Chop saw blade for aluminum

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  • Chop saw blade for aluminum

    Is a chop saw blade, 14" dia. All right to use, actually made for hardware wood, with carbide tips on 6061-t6 & 2024-t4 ?

  • #2
    For periodic use, you could probably get away with it, but you'd be better off getting a blade specifically for cutting non-ferrous metals.


    • #3
      I use my dewalt miter saw and Bosch table saw for cutting aluminum for than I use it for cutting dead tree carcass. You'll have to pay attention to the teeth since aluminum schmoo will tend to build up in there. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pop those little bits out. If I'm cutting a lot, I'll use a bar of soap or stick of wax to lube the blade. That helps a lot.


      • #4
        The carbide tipped blades for metal cutting are designed for the low RPM saws such as the EVO380 (and other brands) if used on a high RPM saw you may end up with carbide teeth flying careful
        West coast of Florida


        • #5
          At first I assumed it was a wood saw already set up with that blade, but now I'm not sure. Good thing to point out, Ltbadd.


          • #6
            I use the same blade for wood or aluminum. Cuts through that soft metal like a hot knife through butter. Cuts are straight and clean, just like in oak. It's just dadgum loud and the chips are mighty hot when they stick to your forearms.


            • #7
              When I worked in a cabinet shop
              for a aerospace co we use to cut aluminum also on a table saw we used a triple chip blade .
              Like Ryan said cut nice and straight just gotta keep the blade clean and watch out for the flying chips .


              • #8
                Stumbled into a $49 , 14" Dia, 36 teeth, circular blade at HD, yesterday, while getting some Sn-Cu-flux core solder for some electrical connectors.
                Brand is AvantiPro, has carbide tips, but thinner than the wood only marked blades.
                packaging indicates mild steel up to 1/4" and aluminum.

                here is the bust, states for "evolution rage" or other 14" low rpm saws
                graphic of chop saw states 1800 maximum rpm.

                my chop saw runs at nominal 3600 rpm.
                believe this blade is not safe to run a 3600 rpm because of tip speed, 2639 in\sec

                Aluminum speciality supply where I get AL uses an abrasive cutoff wheel, resulting in more melting than actual cutting.

                Strive to contribute to my own questions
                if had all the answers would not ask the question.

                currently use a horizontal band saw then have to clean up the ends with table disk slander.
                ​​​​​​​chop saw should make a nice square clean cut.
                Last edited by Almond farmer; 01-03-2018, 10:22 AM.


                • #9
                  My personal experience with Avanti blades (the "economy" brand put out by Freud) is DON'T BOTHER - but I've had good results from the Freud line.
                  Several years ago Harbor Freight had a 14" metal blade on close-out and I bought one - same deal, 1800rpm limit - I got brave/stupid, put it on my abrasive saw (3600rpm) - then I put on full leathers and (being careful to keep important body parts out of the shrapnel path) cut some 2" .120" wall square tube.

                  Made BEAUTIFUL cuts - for about 10 cuts, then started getting slower, smokier, throwing teeth - Would I recommend it?? NOT if you're smart enough to learn from OTHERS' mistakes....

                  I hated that abrasive saw so much I gave it to my kid (with some masonry blades) to do a patio project, and told him to NEVER BRING IT BACK...

                  I eventually wanna get one of the EVO 380 saws, but in the meantime I keep both of my band saws set up well enough that any cut that's gonna get welded does NOT get any "dressing up", no point - I also fabbed 45* adapters for both saws so I can miter joints as quick as I can cut 90*.

                  Works for me; YMMV... Steve


                  • #10
                    Are we about to go off on another wildly over investigated and researched to death potential interaction of a saw blade tooth to a metallic surface when cutting aluminum? Because if we are.....I can't wait....but it's not going to matter. Grab your chop saw, with the blade that's on it for wood, and cut the aluminum already. I do it all the time, others do it all the time, it's fine. No spread sheets required. No algorithms or algebraic equations necessary. No quantum physics professor input will be needed. One has to wonder if some guys ever get any actual work done.


                    • #11
                      I used a wood chop saw now for many years.
                      Trick for me is I try to have around 80 teeth if possible.
                      Freud makes one for aluminum on a standard wood saw they sell at home depot and it does ok.
                      After awhile it throws some teeth and I replace the blade. I prefer to use a plywood blade with the most teeth I can find.
                      I don't like the ones for steel on aluminum because I feel they gum up too much IMO

                      Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
                      MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
                      Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
                      Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

                      Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
                      Miller 30-A Spoolgun
                      Miller WC-115-A
                      Miller Spectrum 300
                      Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
                      Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400


                      • #12
                        I used my 82 tooth Carbide Sears Cabinet blade to saw 1/2" alum sheets into smaller parts. The saw and blade did just fine but my dust collector and wife didn't like the chips...Bob
                        Bob Wright


                        • #13
                          I cut quite a bit of aluminum with my table saw and a decent carbide wood blade. Not even top tier. However I did strip all the teeth off some el cheapo blades. I've also cut a little on my radial arm saw, and even with my Skil Worm drive for sheet with a backer board and just enough stickout to do the job.

                          Except for sheet now I just use the bandsaw. Set the blade on the stock and go work on something else. Much easier and less stressful.


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Almond farmer View Post
                   is the bust, states for "evolution rage" or other 14" low rpm saws
                            graphic of chop saw states 1800 maximum rpm.

                            my chop saw runs at nominal 3600 rpm.
                            believe this blade is not safe to run a 3600 rpm ....
                            So what exactly is the question, please?


                            • #15
                              Question is , is it ok to use a wood saw carbide blade on heat treatable aluminum, like 2000 & 6000 series or even 3033 h22 , formable
                              The fine tooth plywood saw blade seems like a plan, but need 1" diameter bore.
                              no safety issues with carbide tips flying off and less costly.