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  • #16
    I use the small 4x6 bandsaw's at home. But at work when I did work we had these cutoff saws. I cut lots of 3/4" rebar and 1 1/2 tubing and it was perfect...Bob
    Bob Wright

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    • #17
      I've been using abrasive chop saws for twenty years, and also the DeWalt carbide Multi-Cutter since it came out.

      I'd sure like to know what you guys are doing to make your abrasive chop saws be so bad. They don't deflect when used correctly, assuming you actually have a decent one. I have both a DeWalt and a Porter-Cable. Chop saws have their disadvantages and their advantages. But I've been making accurate cuts with them for decades.

      The carbide saw is absolutely superior for the jobs that it can do, but the abrasive chop saw can do a lot more. I need both in my shop. If I could have only one, however, it would have to be the abrasive chop saw.

      What brand blades are you using in these abrasive chop saws you hate so much? Try the Sait Iron Worker 3/32"

      http://store.cyberweld.com/sachsawcu...chMaAhYv8P8HAQ
      Last edited by MAC702; 03-12-2017, 06:48 PM.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by lovetofix View Post
        That is exactly what my dad has in his shop where they build storage buildings. He has the chopsaw mounted in the bench with a wood guide going out 16 feet with a measuring tape fixed to it and a clamp stop. <br />
        When I get a bigger shop built I want to do the same thing. The problem is I will have to figure out some kind of a locking turntable to mount the saw on since it doesn't pivot to cut angles.
        The 1230LC saw base or blade does not rotate, but the fence does.
        When you need to cut long pieces with an angle cut on the end you set the saw down on the shop floor.
        Then you have a wooden block cut to the same size as the measured distance from the floor to the top of the saw base.

        Let's say you are cutting a 4x4 steel tube at 45°.
        You set the fence to 45°
        Lay the 4x4 on the saw under the blade.
        Put that wood block under the far end of the steel tubing. Now it is laying flat and supported.
        Measure, tighten down the fence clamp, and cut away.
        Perry

        P.S. to Mac072......
        I should have made my use clearer. I still use my DeWalt abrasive cut off rather than the 1230LC.
        That use is when I need to cut rebar. I do not care if the ends of the rebar is angled due to deflection, which is always the case.
        Last edited by piniongear; 03-12-2017, 07:12 PM.
        Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
        Coolmate 3
        MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
        HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
        Victor O/A Rig
        Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
        10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
        Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
        Baldor 10 inch Buffer
        Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
        Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
        Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
        Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
        Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.

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        • #19
          I've been pleased with my Milwaukee chop saw's accuracy. I use the thicker wheels.

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          • #20
            You're not wrong MAC, they can be OK to cut with. For me, I feel like I have to cut slower so I don't get that deflection and keep the long end well braced. Like you said, "when used correctly...." I have the Milwaukee something or other abrasive chop saw, it was the biggest one I could find about six or seven years ago when I got it. One thing I can say is the motor on that mammer jammer is skookum as ****. About a quarter of the time it trips the breaker when I squeeze the trigger, drives me crazy sometimes.

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            • #21
              I'm also a big fan of the Carbide blade cold saws.............I have one of the Evolution Power Tools RAGE2 running a 15" blade.........accurate Yes , I make compound miter cuts in 2x4x.188 tubing all the time .............The Bad...... is the little razor sharp chips that get stuck in your shoes...

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              • #22
                Originally posted by tackit View Post
                I've been pleased with my Milwaukee chop saw's accuracy. I use the thicker wheels.
                That is a mighty fine looking stand you have there. It looks like it makes the tool easy to roll around.
                Perry
                Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
                Coolmate 3
                MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
                HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
                Victor O/A Rig
                Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
                10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
                Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
                Baldor 10 inch Buffer
                Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
                Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
                Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
                Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
                Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by lovetofix View Post
                  I imagine 5000 cuts is more than you could get out of a bandsaw blade. The bandsaw could cut about any metal though vs being limited to mild steel with the dry cut chop saw. I could see myself building a table that would allow the bandsaw to pivot like the Hem Saw Tackit shared.
                  The cold saw doesn't just cut mild steel, the blade is what limits that.

                  I also am a cold saw converter. Bought one on a black Friday sale (Evolution Rage 2, Home Depot $155 shipped), and wonder why I didn't sooner.

                  J.Caraher
                  Wide Open Throttle Technologies (WOT-Tech), Pompano Beach FL
                  Miller Sync 300,Hobart 190
                  RogueFab pneumatic, Hossfeld Manual
                  Kitamura CNC, Bridgeport 2j
                  TunerPRO, HPTuners, AEM, Megasquirt, DynoJet
                  NASA Racing Official/Driver

                  YouTube Link, Instagram Link, FaceBook Link

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by piniongear View Post

                    That is a mighty fine looking stand you have there. It looks like it makes the tool easy to roll around.
                    Perry
                    It's been a good stable stand, the handles slides in out out of the way. That's a 10' or 11' piece of 3/16 X 4" square tube it's holding offset.

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                    • #25
                      Just got a Hem Saw Femi NG 120 ABS from Trick Tools last week and out of the box made 50 plus cuts on 2" X 2" X 14 ga steel square tubing, square cuts to almost 60 degree miter cuts and all were on the money ! The saw is very well built, the semi automatic feed is very nice set it on the piece and go do something else, makes the cut and shuts off, light weight, portable and perfect for my small shop. Clean up is easy as the chips stay with the saw unlike a Rage 3 or abrasive saw that throws chips everywhere ! I've made a number of cuts since the initial 50 plus and the blade is cutting just as good, we'll see how long it will last ? It's a great choice for a smaller shop ! Yea it's pricey but it's top quality and it's going to last along time, you usually get what you pay for !

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                      • #26
                        I bought a $250 Chinese model, I keep it down stairs by my mini lathe, it's been real handy, it has slow start and cuts accurately. I put a Morse blade on it, it's a bit under powered for me, but it's not bad, I would buy another if it went bad, it's been to handy to not have one around.

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                        • #27
                          A few pictures of the compound miters I cut with the Evolution RAGE2 saw......on a off road chassis.

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                          • #28
                            Nicely set up!

                            For terminology's sake, though, is that a compound miter? Hard to tell in the photo, but it just looks like offset miters.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by MAC702 View Post
                              Nicely set up!

                              For terminology's sake, though, is that a compound miter? Hard to tell in the photo, but it just looks like offset miters.
                              Compound miter means it can cut at an angle both laterally and transversely. In 0ther words the saw rotates and tilts, whereas a regular miter saw will only rotate.
                              J.Caraher
                              Wide Open Throttle Technologies (WOT-Tech), Pompano Beach FL
                              Miller Sync 300,Hobart 190
                              RogueFab pneumatic, Hossfeld Manual
                              Kitamura CNC, Bridgeport 2j
                              TunerPRO, HPTuners, AEM, Megasquirt, DynoJet
                              NASA Racing Official/Driver

                              YouTube Link, Instagram Link, FaceBook Link

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                We do a lot of S.S. pipe sch 10, 1" thru 4". Got this 14" Brobo cold saw 10 or so years ago it cuts super accurate but for cost it should. We also do a ton of carbon steel the blades are 180 tooth hss blades I get anywhere from 250 to about 1000 cuts per sharpening. $200 per blade and $25 per sharpening I get about 12 to 15 sharpenings before the blade is too small. The saw head rotates 45 deg both directions. I keep 4 blade in stock so as not to be without. We also have a 9" slugger saw goes thru steel like butter.

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