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320A / BP no arc

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  • 320A / BP no arc

    I have a 320A / BP welder that has been in light TIG service and working well for years. I turned it on and can’t get an arc with the pedal or by dragging electrode even on the ground clamp. I have not changed a thing. The pedal does activate the gas. I swapped out the torch and leads with a proven good one, but still no arc. Where do I go from here?

  • #2
    Found it. Primary overload switch was off. Sweet, free fix!

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    • #3
      Oh man...you owe us a box of donuts for that one.

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      • #4
        FYI, I think there's a switch under the cover that you need to toggle to switch between stick and TIG...

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        • #5
          There is a big copper lever on the upper left side under the front panel. Has something to do with the correct inductance for stick or tig...somehow or another. Although I've never been able to determine which position the lever should be in for scratch start tig. <br />
          <br />
          But there are all sorts of switches that need to be in the correct position to make it do whatever it is you need it to do.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
            There is a big copper lever on the upper left side under the front panel. Has something to do with the correct inductance for stick or tig...somehow or another. Although I've never been able to determine which position the lever should be in for scratch start tig. <br />
            <br />
            But there are all sorts of switches that need to be in the correct position to make it do whatever it is you need it to do.
            Use it on tig and don't scratch start. No reason IMO. Unless you simply love to grind tungsten.

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            • #7
              Or if your upside down under a trailer, or out in the yard further than the foot pedal can reach, or...I suppose...you just really like to grind tungsten. There are lots of X-ray quality welds being done in plants all over the world using the scratch start process. Sometimes, your foot pedal just isn't needed. Sometimes you can't use HF to start the arc. Scratch start is a very under rated process. You don't have to beat on it with a hammer, just a tiny little scratch off will do. A few days ago I was under a bus about 60' from the shop door. Scratch start was the way to go. I don't particularly like throwing sparks around a gas tank if I can avoid it.

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              • #8
                Oh, I forgot, maybe that new finger control would be a good option. If it holds up for you, FK, I'm certain it will hold up for my shop. That would certainly be better than scratch start.

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