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AEAD 200LE Low Power No Weld

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  • farmboy57
    replied
    Yes got it back couple days ago, had replaced bridge rectifier after calling Miller technical support to get wiring placement because the one on welder didn't have cut off corner. They told me what terminals to put wire numbers on but gave me order in reverse. Welding great again so the problem was the bridge rectifier. Would like to thank all that replied for the help.

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  • D Auger
    replied
    Any luck on the Aead ?D

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  • farmboy57
    replied
    Taking to Shop tomorrow, hopefully will be something simple.

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  • D Auger
    replied
    Hopefully Duane55 will check back in on this

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  • farmboy57
    replied
    Yes, if I strike arc welder kicks up RPMs but only get small spark

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  • D Auger
    replied
    Did you check the weld /power contacts at the back of switch make sure there clean?

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  • farmboy57
    replied
    Took a chance and replaced sr2 rectifier no luck. Checked power at brushes and get 4 volts at front, 13 volts at middle, 0 at rear. Took straps off resistors and cleaned still only 17 volts

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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    Originally posted by D Auger View Post
    There is a lot of great people with good info on these machines on this site your in good hands ,Oh and Aeronca41 told me the hertz trick for that setup I know a little about them I'm still learning as I go .But start there sounds like something simple .D
    ...and I learned it from Cruizer. This group is great-always someone to learn from.

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  • farmboy57
    replied
    Will check these items again tomorrow if get home in time. Never hurts to recheck, there was some rust on resistor tap, cleaned off but will recheck. Thanks for the suggestions.

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  • duaneb55
    replied
    To calculate RPM based on Hz the equation is:

    RPM = (Hz x 120) / 4 for 1800RPM 4-pole generators (such as yours)
    RPM = (Hz x 120) / 2 for 3600RPM 2-pole generators

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  • duaneb55
    replied
    Definitely check the resistor tap straps that D Auger mentioned and are you 100% sure bridge rectifier SR2 is good? Considering you're getting the same voltage at the 60Hz duplex at 1800rpm POWER speed and single 115V/100Hz outlet at 3000rpm WELD speed, it sounds like you're only getting battery voltage at the rotor brushes. I'd check voltage at the brushes too. Center brush is (+), outside brushes are (-).

    I would also check the WELD/POWER switch contacts for wires #51 and #54. Make sure they make contact in POWER mode.

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  • D Auger
    replied
    There is a lot of great people with good info on these machines on this site your in good hands ,Oh and Aeronca41 told me the hertz trick for that setup I know a little about them I'm still learning as I go .But start there sounds like something simple .D

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  • D Auger
    replied
    There are two resisters under the right side panel as your facing the control panel they are mounted vertical check the tap bands under neath for corrosion and make sure to check the spade connections for corrosion also .I had to do that on mine .Make sure you put them exactly back in place were they were .Hopefully Duane55 or Cruizer will check in on this ,they are pretty sharp with these machines .

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  • farmboy57
    replied
    RPM's are good, getting 18-20 volts on duplex receptacle at 1800 RPM and 18 volts on 115 volt receptacle in weld mode at 3000 RPM. What ever is wrong happened while not being used over six months. Has worked great over the 25 years I have had it.

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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    I'm not a welder expert but fix a lot of things. D Auger is right on with checking RPM first. Do the power outlets work? What voltage is on them? First thing you need is accurate RPM measurement. If your voltmeter doesn't have a Hz range, get a Kill-a-Watt meter at HF or HD or Lowes and check frequency. That, and whether utility outlets work is the first step I would try.

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