Help with 1/8" 6010/6011

[dimestacker44]

Hey everybody I am looking some tips on how to run 6010 and 6011 in flat position on DC. I can't seem to figure out how to run them and what amperage they're good at. My welds end up coming out with **** near nothing to chip off for slag and look the ****s. Thanks for any help

[MAC702]

Help us help you. What is your current machine and its settings, including polarity? Can you attach a picture?

[dimestacker44]

Machine is a Miller Trailboss 325 running it on the xx10 setting around 85 ish amps

[Jayare123]

85ish should work. Have you run 6010 before and it's not the same? Or you've never run them before?

[Aeronca41]

May be just me, but I never heard of a Trailboss. Do you mean Trailblazer 325? You should be running 1/8 6010 or 6011 on reverse polarity (DCEP, or Electrode Positive), at about 80-120 amps. I think that machine automatically selects reverse polarity when you select 6010. Have to adjust amps based on conditions, and the high end is unlikely. If you don't already have it, Guidelines for stick welding are available at

https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/...lines_smaw.pdf

Besides polarity and amps, rod angle, travel speed/consistency, and arc length/consistency are the biggies. Those rods do not generate the amount of slag you may be used to seeing with 7024, 7018 or 6013. Much less slag but it's stuck on a little tighter. I think it safe to say the 6010/6011 welds are generally not quite as "pretty" as the other rods mentioned, at least when I'm the ham-fisted operator.

Post some pics; lots of experienced people here who will be glad to help.

[dimestacker44]

I have ran 6013 but not 6010 or 6011 before till a couple of weeks ago and yeah hasn't been the best experience lol!<br />
<br />
Yeah sorry I didn't even realize it said trail boss instead of trailblazer and yes as soon as I turn the dial to xx10 from say xx18 it is suppose to switch to reverse polarity. Yeah I think you may be right since I haven't really ran these rods they are quite different compared to what I'm used to like 7018 and 7014 around the farm. Thanks for the advice it's muchly appreciated. I will try and get a picture tomorrow!

[ryanjones2150]

6010 is what you need. 6011 is for AC, but can be ran on DC. <br />
<br />
You have to use some sort of rod manipulation to keep it burning. It's a fast freeze weld puddle with excellent penetration and light slag. I use whipping motion, most call it a "whip and pause". It's not nearly like cracking a whip. Once you establish the weld puddle, simply move forward two steps, then move back over the weld puddle by back stepping one step and continue. I use this motion in all positions, but my stepping out and back over the puddle vary greatly on position, heat and weld metal. Once you see it, you'll get the idea. <br />
<br />
There are lots of ways to run a 6010, but they all require you to move the burning end of the rod a bit, not at all like a 7018 that pretty much runs itself. If you try to burn a 60 series rod like a 70 series rod it will make you sad. <br />
<br />
Go to the YouTube and search 6010 whip and pause.

[dimestacker44]

I have used whip and pause before but I didn't try it on these rods. I will give it a try today and let you know how it goes. What you've said makes sense because how I was doing it, the rod was almost like it was too weak of an arc and would stick every now and again. I'm gonna watch a couple videos on how these rods are suppose to run in general and I'll let ya know how it goes later on today! Thanks a lot eh!

[OscarJr]

Rod brand also makes a difference. Lincoln SMAW rods run way better than some of the off-brand china-based or India-based rods. I just recently tried out 6010 from "Best Welds", "Anchor", and "Blue Demon".



Both the Best Welds and Blue Demon welded pretty much identical. Both are India rods. But they required much more amperage than the package states. I hypothesize it is because they have 70% more flux coating than identical "diameter" Lincoln 6010s. Anchor 6010s looked and ran like 6011.

[Bls repair]

I have a 325 ,you have to move cables manually to get dcep and dcen

[ryanjones2150]

I have never used of those rods, but I really like the fleetweld 5p+...I think that's the name of it....just had a lot of great success with that rod.

[OscarJr]

I have never used of those rods, but I really like the fleetweld 5p+...I think that's the name of it....just had a lot of great success with that rod.

Yup, that's the gray one in the pic, the "+++++". Runs great.

[ryanjones2150]

That be the one.

[kevin]

some mention of brands, has any one recently looked at the logo,made in xxxx, which used to be america, on some suppliers, it will say, assembled in america with imported components. ive stopped buying from airgas, their rods have gone to the worst. i have a feeling that airgas is like home depot with their rods, for example buy a john deere lawn mower at the box store,s, then look at the same model at the deere dealership, its a much finer product. i am thinking that lincoln is making rods to airgas specs, no proof, just a thought, if you do buy from them. dont be to harsh on your self, you may have some of these rods

[OscarJr]

some mention of brands, has any one recently looked at the logo,made in xxxx, which used to be america, on some suppliers, it will say, assembled in america with imported components. ive stopped buying from airgas, their rods have gone to the worst. i have a feeling that airgas is like home depot with their rods, for example buy a john deere lawn mower at the box store,s, then look at the same model at the deere dealership, its a much finer product. i am thinking that lincoln is making rods to airgas specs, no proof, just a thought, if you do buy from them. dont be to harsh on your self, you may have some of these rods

I don't believe this to be the case. I've bought lincoln rods in 50lb tins at both box stores and a lincoln dealer LWS. Both are identical, except for the rod diameter, which was different on purpose of course.