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  • FusionKing
    replied
    Originally posted by brock20 View Post

    FusionKing, I will try it with 75/25. I will update. Thanks, Yall.
    Great!
    I would like to know how much it helps

    Leave a comment:


  • Customizer
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	image1 (1).jpg
Views:	372
Size:	26.6 KB
ID:	576891 I do a lot of MIG welding and pretty sure you have a gas/setup issue. While spatter will increase with higher CO2 levels (generally because of gas properties and arc formation), it can be made spatter free provided you give it more voltage, power.
    Last edited by Customizer; 01-04-2017, 10:10 AM.

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  • brock20
    replied
    Originally posted by FusionKing View Post

    Generally machines that use CO2 have the inductance tailored for that usage. Older migs like the MM200 or even the Passport. The 350P has an adjustable inductance and it makes a big difference in how it runs with different gas mixtures.
    I would run 75/25 before I tried anything else. It might make a huge difference. Just because it WILL run with it doesn't mean it'll run nice. It would work in a pinch.
    I have ran a lot of straight CO2 in the past and it would certainly not be my gas choice for todays machines. If your other machine did the same thing and you ran the same gas you should at least give it a try.
    On my 350P on steel I run 75/25 on thin and use 90/10 on most everything else even tho it is primarily designed for spray.
    I was looking at your other thread about the frame welding and was considering how much more difficult it would make it using the wrong gas and learning a new technique.
    Everybody isn't running 75/25 (argon/co2) these days just to spend more money.......it actually welds nicer and runs smoother.
    FusionKing, I will try it with 75/25. I will update. Thanks, Yall.

    Leave a comment:


  • tackit
    replied
    That's a good deal alright, you got yourself a great machine. I like my 251, it's a 2003 model, it still looks like and welds like when it was brand new. I've sprayed with it and was very happy with the welds.
    Last edited by tackit; 12-27-2016, 04:52 AM.

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  • BukitCase
    replied
    Not a problem; I'd already dnl the manual for the 212, wuz gonna buy one til I found a screamin' deal on a 252 with dual running gear, 30A spool gun, 2 full size (K) tanks - guy had had it for about 4 years, ran about 3# off a 33 # spool of .035 wire, 30A had NEVER HAD A TIP INSTALLED, one of the tanks was FULL - all for just over $200 more than I wuz gonna pay for a SINGLE tank 212 with NO SPOOL GUN -

    'Bout a week after that a good friend of mine got a SIMILAR deal on my earlier MM211 with 2 tanks and a barely used Spoolmate 100 :=)...Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • tackit
    replied
    Thanks for looking the information up and posting it BC.

    Leave a comment:


  • BukitCase
    replied
    From the mm212 manual -

    "5-3. Run-In Setting
    Run-In is the speed of the wire prior to the welding arc being struck. This setting is a percentage of the wire feed speed
    the unit is set to for welding. Programming values range from 25 − 100%.
    The standard MIG gun has a separate Run-In from the Spoolmatic 15/30A spool gun. Both Run-Ins are set to 50%
    from the factory for optimal arc starts.
    To adjust run-in, first turn off the unit. While the unit is off, pull the trigger on the gun that is going to be adjusted, then
    turn on the unit. The yellow OVERTEMP light will flash once indicating a trigger error. Turn the wire speed control to
    minimum, then turn the wire speed control to maximum. The yellow light will turn off and the Auto-Set light will flash
    indicating that Run-In is now settable. Turn the wire speed control to the desired percentage. For example, setting the
    wire speed control to 60 will set the run-in percentage to 60%. Finally, release the trigger to save the run-in setting."

    Closest thing I could find to "hot start", the 212 appears to have most (if not all) the settings my mm252 has, just less power/duty cycle... Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • FusionKing
    replied
    Originally posted by tackit View Post
    Does the 212 have a hot start feature? I turned the hot start off on my 251 by pulling a wire off the contactor, it helped quite a bit.
    Good question

    Leave a comment:


  • tackit
    replied
    Does the 212 have a hot start feature? I turned the hot start off on my 251 by pulling a wire off the contactor, it helped quite a bit.
    Last edited by tackit; 12-24-2016, 02:40 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • FusionKing
    replied
    Originally posted by brock20 View Post

    1.The popping I'm referring to is coming from the end of the gun. The weld is not "crisp."

    2. CO2 is quite a bit cheaper and seems to last longer. The machine references CO2 in the setup parameters. How is it not designed for it?

    3. The first machine was sold.
    Generally machines that use CO2 have the inductance tailored for that usage. Older migs like the MM200 or even the Passport. The 350P has an adjustable inductance and it makes a big difference in how it runs with different gas mixtures.
    I would run 75/25 before I tried anything else. It might make a huge difference. Just because it WILL run with it doesn't mean it'll run nice. It would work in a pinch.
    I have ran a lot of straight CO2 in the past and it would certainly not be my gas choice for todays machines. If your other machine did the same thing and you ran the same gas you should at least give it a try.
    On my 350P on steel I run 75/25 on thin and use 90/10 on most everything else even tho it is primarily designed for spray.
    I was looking at your other thread about the frame welding and was considering how much more difficult it would make it using the wrong gas and learning a new technique.
    Everybody isn't running 75/25 (argon/co2) these days just to spend more money.......it actually welds nicer and runs smoother.

    Leave a comment:


  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Two machines with the same issue, might be a setup error or a technique problem. Speed your wire up and see how it goes.

    Leave a comment:


  • brock20
    replied
    Originally posted by H80N View Post
    What brand wire...?? some offshore brands are pretty inconsistant
    I believe this is an ESAB wire, but the label has been peeled off. To be honest, I am unsure.

    Leave a comment:


  • brock20
    replied
    Originally posted by FusionKing View Post
    2 questions.....
    Where is the "popping" noise coming from?
    Why are you using 100% CO2? The machine is really not designed for that.
    And for question #3, what happened to the first machine?
    1.The popping I'm referring to is coming from the end of the gun. The weld is not "crisp."

    2. CO2 is quite a bit cheaper and seems to last longer. The machine references CO2 in the setup parameters. How is it not designed for it?

    3. The first machine was sold.

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    What brand wire...?? some offshore brands are pretty inconsistant

    Leave a comment:


  • FusionKing
    replied
    2 questions.....
    Where is the "popping" noise coming from?
    Why are you using 100% CO2? The machine is really not designed for that.
    And for question #3, what happened to the first machine?

    Leave a comment:

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