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  • #1

    Miller 212 Issues

    I have a Millermatic 212 that is about 1.5 years old. I have only used about 1/2 of a big roll of wire.

    My issue is that it will start out just fine then start popping after about 3-4 seconds. Sometimes it will clear itself up, others you may need to stop welding that bead. Once the "popping" starts, the machine will have a hum/vibration to it. I dont think it is a setting issue as that it will start out great. I had another 212 before this one that did the same thing. Are there any know issues with what I am explaining?

    The liner and tip is good. The .035 wire is running through the .035 drive rolls and there is no slipping on the drive rolls. Welding with 100% CO2.

    Thanks in advance,

    Brock
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Check your wire for any surface rust/corrosion.

    Comment

    • #3
      And check your ground.

      Comment

      • #4
        The wire doesnt show corrosion. The ground looks to be in like new shape. Ive read that the clamps that come new with the machine could be bad new. any chance this is true?
        • 1 like

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        • #5
          The stamped sheet metal ground clamps suck. But sounds to me like you have a feed problem. Clean your whip and check your tip for an obstruction.
          • 1 like

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          • #6
            2 questions.....
            Where is the "popping" noise coming from?
            Why are you using 100% CO2? The machine is really not designed for that.
            And for question #3, what happened to the first machine?

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            • 1 like

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            • #7
              What brand wire...?? some offshore brands are pretty inconsistant
              .

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              • #8
                Originally posted by FusionKing View Post
                2 questions.....
                Where is the "popping" noise coming from?
                Why are you using 100% CO2? The machine is really not designed for that.
                And for question #3, what happened to the first machine?
                1.The popping I'm referring to is coming from the end of the gun. The weld is not "crisp."

                2. CO2 is quite a bit cheaper and seems to last longer. The machine references CO2 in the setup parameters. How is it not designed for it?

                3. The first machine was sold.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Originally posted by H80N View Post
                  What brand wire...?? some offshore brands are pretty inconsistant
                  I believe this is an ESAB wire, but the label has been peeled off. To be honest, I am unsure.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Two machines with the same issue, might be a setup error or a technique problem. Speed your wire up and see how it goes.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by brock20 View Post

                      1.The popping I'm referring to is coming from the end of the gun. The weld is not "crisp."

                      2. CO2 is quite a bit cheaper and seems to last longer. The machine references CO2 in the setup parameters. How is it not designed for it?

                      3. The first machine was sold.
                      Generally machines that use CO2 have the inductance tailored for that usage. Older migs like the MM200 or even the Passport. The 350P has an adjustable inductance and it makes a big difference in how it runs with different gas mixtures.
                      I would run 75/25 before I tried anything else. It might make a huge difference. Just because it WILL run with it doesn't mean it'll run nice. It would work in a pinch.
                      I have ran a lot of straight CO2 in the past and it would certainly not be my gas choice for todays machines. If your other machine did the same thing and you ran the same gas you should at least give it a try.
                      On my 350P on steel I run 75/25 on thin and use 90/10 on most everything else even tho it is primarily designed for spray.
                      I was looking at your other thread about the frame welding and was considering how much more difficult it would make it using the wrong gas and learning a new technique.
                      Everybody isn't running 75/25 (argon/co2) these days just to spend more money.......it actually welds nicer and runs smoother.

                      www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
                      Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
                      MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
                      Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
                      Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"
                      Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
                      Miller 30-A Spoolgun
                      Miller WC-115-A
                      Miller Spectrum 300
                      Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
                      Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Does the 212 have a hot start feature? I turned the hot start off on my 251 by pulling a wire off the contactor, it helped quite a bit.
                        Last edited by tackit; 12-24-2016, 03:40 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by tackit View Post
                          Does the 212 have a hot start feature? I turned the hot start off on my 251 by pulling a wire off the contactor, it helped quite a bit.
                          Good question

                          www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
                          Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
                          MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
                          Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
                          Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"
                          Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
                          Miller 30-A Spoolgun
                          Miller WC-115-A
                          Miller Spectrum 300
                          Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
                          Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            From the mm212 manual -

                            "5-3. Run-In Setting
                            Run-In is the speed of the wire prior to the welding arc being struck. This setting is a percentage of the wire feed speed
                            the unit is set to for welding. Programming values range from 25 − 100%.
                            The standard MIG gun has a separate Run-In from the Spoolmatic 15/30A spool gun. Both Run-Ins are set to 50%
                            from the factory for optimal arc starts.
                            To adjust run-in, first turn off the unit. While the unit is off, pull the trigger on the gun that is going to be adjusted, then
                            turn on the unit. The yellow OVERTEMP light will flash once indicating a trigger error. Turn the wire speed control to
                            minimum, then turn the wire speed control to maximum. The yellow light will turn off and the Auto-Set light will flash
                            indicating that Run-In is now settable. Turn the wire speed control to the desired percentage. For example, setting the
                            wire speed control to 60 will set the run-in percentage to 60%. Finally, release the trigger to save the run-in setting."

                            Closest thing I could find to "hot start", the 212 appears to have most (if not all) the settings my mm252 has, just less power/duty cycle... Steve

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                            • #15
                              Thanks for looking the information up and posting it BC.

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