Installing 220 For Dynasty 200 for heavy manufacturing use

[target4fun]

Installing 220 For Dynasty 200 for heavy manufacturing use
After hours of researching the manual, online forums and doing all research I could this is the list I could come up with to properly run 220 to my garage using single phase power.

Pictures:
My dynasty has a twist lock pig tale 50A/125 (see picture)
Shopping List for 220 add on for D200

1. 30 Amp Breaker
2. 30 ft of 10-2 wire
3. 220 Outlet box
4. 220 6-50 Nema Outlet (Outlet installed Ground Side up)
5. 220 Pig tale 6-50 Male one end and Female twist & Lock Nema 6-50 50/125
6. 10-2 Cord for pig tale

Is there anything listed above that can’t be found at local home depot? I want it done right but if there is something that isn’t dangerous that is cheaper I am all ears.
Please review and make sure you don’t see any mistakes? Thanks!
*this will be a dedicated welder outlet nothing else but my dynasty 200.

[OscarJr]

No picture

[Aeronca41]

Installing 220 For Dynasty 200 for heavy manufacturing use
After hours of researching the manual, online forums and doing all research I could this is the list I could come up with to properly run 220 to my garage using single phase power.

Pictures:
My dynasty has a twist lock pig tale 50A/125 (see picture)
Shopping List for 220 add on for D200

1. 30 Amp Breaker
2. 30 ft of 10-2 wire
3. 220 Outlet box
4. 220 6-50 Nema Outlet (Outlet installed Ground Side up)
5. 220 Pig tale 6-50 Male one end and Female twist & Lock Nema 6-50 50/125
6. 10-2 Cord for pig tale

Is there anything listed above that can’t be found at local home depot? I want it done right but if there is something that isn’t dangerous that is cheaper I am all ears.
Please review and make sure you don’t see any mistakes? Thanks!
*this will be a dedicated welder outlet nothing else but my dynasty 200.

The female plug for your pigtail will need to be specified as L6-50R for cord application. Your cord for the pigtail needs to be 10/3 service cord of a type like SJO, SJOW, etc. You can use type SO or SOW but it generally costs more than the Junior since it's rated for 600 v vice 300 v. Unlike standard Romex for wiring the outlet, where 10/2 means there are 2 current carrying wires plus an equipment grounding conductor (usually bare), Service cord (the black rubber stuff) requires that you count all 3 wires). Thus, your service cord needs to be 10/3. It might be hard to find the L6-50R at Home Depot, but can't say for sure. May have to go to an electrical supply place. Prepare to be surprised by the price-they are generally not cheap.

If the plug on your dynasty is a locking 6-50, NEMA lists that as a 250 volt plug, not 125 v. No big deal, just that if you ask for a 125 v 6-50, there is no such NEMA designation to my knowledge. You need to change the designation for the plug and receptacle to 50/250 from 50/125 to make it consistent with 6-50 NEMA spec.

if you are buying a separate box and outlet to mount on the wall as opposed to a "one-piece"
black plastic outlet/box assy, you will also need the appropriate box cover plate and a box connector to clamp the Romex to the box.

Your materials list didn't specify, but I assume you are buying a 2-pole 30A breaker.

Unless you plan to make the pigtail long enough to act as an extension cord for the welder, I would just not use it. To do this much cheaper but still completely safe, I'd just change the plug on the welder to a 6-50p and plug it into the new wall outlet directly; that's what i did with my Dynasty 200. Losing the pigtail is far cheaper and actually a better installation; having less connections is always good. If you do that, be sure to follow the plug installation instructions in the Dynasty manual, insulating and tying back the red wire-it does not get connected for single phase 220 operation. However, If you need the length, you are on the right track.

[target4fun]

The female plug for your pigtail will need to be specified as L6-50R for cord application. Your cord for the pigtail needs to be 10/3 service cord of a type like SJO, SJOW, etc. You can use type SO or SOW but it generally costs more than the Junior since it's rated for 600 v vice 300 v. Unlike standard Romex for wiring the outlet, where 10/2 means there are 2 current carrying wires plus an equipment grounding conductor (usually bare), Service cord (the black rubber stuff) requires that you count all 3 wires). Thus, your service cord needs to be 10/3. It might be hard to find the L6-50R at Home Depot, but can't say for sure. May have to go to an electrical supply place. Prepare to be surprised by the price-they are generally not cheap.

Wasn't aware of these SO or SOW designations but I am no electrician. Thanks for the heads up on this I will buy 10-3 SJO or SJOW for pigtail. I was looking and was wondering if I could just use a twist style 220 outlet that would mate up with what I have, thus deleting the need for the pigtail. I have a picture of my current twist lock 220 plug I have and will post it. I was looking at this outlet (link below) not sure if it will mate up with what I have.

https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Nema-Twistlock-Single-Receptacles-30-Amp-Receptacles/Leviton/2620/product.aspx?zpid=161635

If the plug on your dynasty is a locking 6-50, NEMA lists that as a 250 volt plug, not 125 v. No big deal, just that if you ask for a 125 v 6-50, there is no such NEMA designation to my knowledge. You need to change the designation for the plug and receptacle to 50/250 from 50/125 to make it consistent with 6-50 NEMA spec.

Sorry I messed up plug says 50A 125/250V I am guessing I am good to go and no change needed on plug?

if you are buying a separate box and outlet to mount on the wall as opposed to a "one-piece"
black plastic outlet/box assy, you will also need the appropriate box cover plate and a box connector to clamp the Romex to the box.

Im lost on all these parts I understand you need a box, a cover but will need to research what a "box connector" is as this is something I was not aware of. Is this what your talking about:

https://www.platt.com/platt-electric...px?zpid=412893

Your materials list didn't specify, but I assume you are buying a 2-pole 30A breaker.

Yes first on my list I said 30 amp breaker but didn't specify 2-pole, thanks for details!

Unless you plan to make the pigtail long enough to act as an extension cord for the welder, I would just not use it. To do this much cheaper but still completely safe, I'd just change the plug on the welder to a 6-50p and plug it into the new wall outlet directly; that's what i did with my Dynasty 200. Losing the pigtail is far cheaper and actually a better installation; having less connections is always good. If you do that, be sure to follow the plug installation instructions in the Dynasty manual, insulating and tying back the red wire-it does not get connected for single phase 220 operation. However, If you need the length, you are on the right track.

I was thinking of making different pigtails for different outlets so i could use different outlets depending on situations. twist lock on one end and proper male outlet on the other end. If what I have isnt good for this then I will change, is the twist lock no good?

Id like to have pigtail for dryer connection, and another pigtail for 110 hoping with these I should be able to use it with most plugs.

I am open to advice as I know very little on this and would like something easy and less moving parts sounds good.

My current power cable coming from welder is about 6-8 ft long which should be fine for normal use but I would like to have "extention pigtails" in case its needed for dryer plug use for those rare times its used.


Thanks for taking the time to give me all this very useful info. I greatly appreciate it and it has helped me very much.

[Olivero]

The box connector is a fitting, normally 3/8" or 1/2" that keeps your MC or Romex or pipe or whatever from pulling out of the box. For EMT its a piece with male threads on one end and pipe on the other, the EMT slides in and you tighten the set screw on the pipe.

Romex and MC is a connector that you tighten 2 screws and it pulls metal closer and closer to the cable or shield until its clamping it and keeping it from moving.

They are around $1-$3 a piece I believe.

Since you are doing "Heavy manufacturing" I would just have an outlet dedicated for my welder like Aeronca mentioned, just have a plug just for your welder, wire the outlet straight to the wires coming from the panel, no pigtails and added connections. You can always replace the plug on your plasma cutter or whatever else you want to use for 220V. I don't know a lot of people that plasma cut and weld at the exact same time so you could go that route.

Just trust us, The less connections and junctions you have, the better off you are. The machine already needs a lot of juice, no need to add resistance to the circuit or potential trouble areas.

[OscarJr]

If you are a one-man shop, you only need TWO dedicated 220V outlets, each on their own 50A breaker.. One for your 3+HP 220V air compressor, and the other for whichever other 220V machine you are using (ie: welder, plasma cutter, etc).

[Aeronca41]

I was thinking of making different pigtails for different outlets so i could use different outlets depending on situations. twist lock on one end and proper male outlet on the other end. If what I have isnt good for this then I will change, is the twist lock no good?

Id like to have pigtail for dryer connection, and another pigtail for 110 hoping with these I should be able to use it with most plugs.

I am open to advice as I know very little on this and would like something easy and less moving parts sounds good.

My current power cable coming from welder is about 6-8 ft long which should be fine for normal use but I would like to have "extention pigtails" in case its needed for dryer plug use for those rare times its used.


Thanks for taking the time to give me all this very useful info. I greatly appreciate it and it has helped me very much.

Glad to help; this site is all about helping each other.

The multiple pigtails idea is a good one if you plan to take the Dynasty to other locations. Again, I think you will find the L6-50R to be pretty pricey compared to a non-locking 6-50. My two cents---and what I did with my Dynasty---put a NEMA 6-50P plug on the welder, and make your pigtails with 6-50R (female) ends rather than buying multiple locking female connectors. YMMV, but every time I go to buy a locking connector I choke on the price, and it's not like you're going to be dragging the welder around by its tail.

As Oscar mentioned, you might want to consider wiring in a 50A circuit vice 30A while you're doing it. Bigger wire will cost a bit more, but you can than plug in most any welder in the future. Not essential, but a good idea if you think you might ever use a non-inverter type welder some day. You can still use #10 SJO/SJOW for the pigtails. The "standard" welder receptacle is 50 amps, but of course is not required for the Dynasty 200.

One other comment--our resident Miller tech Cruizer recommends replacing the strain relief on the cord where it goes into the Dynasty 200; says it is so tight it sometimes crimps the conductors together. I haven't done mine yet, but intend to. And, to help prevent potentially very costly failures, it's a good idea to take the cover off the welder and make sure the internal connections to the weld output terminals on the front panel are good and tight. Do not go poking around the circuit cards; they are potentially sensitive to static electricity which may come from your body, and you won't like the cost of a new board. :-)

If we haven't explained it all yet, just keep asking. Lots of smart and experienced people here.

[target4fun]

Sounds like I will be best to redo the plug on the welder and I will do just that. I will also try to find a forum post or something on the strain relief on the cord to do that upgrade/fix. Is there any other maintenance you would suggest? I bought this machine used but it was a great deal and tested it with tig on steel and aluminum before i bought to ensure it was working well.

Is there any danger to having a 50A breaker because the miller manual recommends 30 max which i figured it it went over 30 it would flip breaker rather than hurt the machine. I can do another 50A breaker for another machine in the future if I need but inverter tig is what we will be doing 98 percent of the time.

[MAC702]

No issues with a 50A circuit. It can even be on #12 or #10 wire for welders, though this should be labeled for welder use only. Welders have a duty cycle which limits heat in the wire. The vast majority of industrial welding circuits are 50A and no one is putting in a 30A breaker when they buy a smaller machine.

[Aeronca41]

I, and I suspect many others, plug Dynastys into 50A circuits all the time. However, you are correct in the 30a max recommendation in the manual. Adding a separate 50a circuit later may be best.

I have always thought that if something serious enough to trip a 30 amp breaker happens, 30 or 50 may not make much difference.

Before you change the plug on the welder, check the prices on the locking female. If I'm wrong on the pricing, you will be wasting effort. I've been known to be mistaken on occasion; ask my wife!

There are no details on the forum, to my knowledge, on changing the strain relief. Just go to an electrical supply store and buy a strain relief that fits the outside diameter of the cord. Probably need to cut the cord at the welder and reconnect inside after installing the new strain relief. Do a search on Dynasty and cord and see what crops up. The post is by Cruizer.

[H80N]

Glad to help; this site is all about helping each other.

The multiple pigtails idea is a good one if you plan to take the Dynasty to other locations. Again, I think you will find the L6-50R to be pretty pricey compared to a non-locking 6-50. My two cents---and what I did with my Dynasty---put a NEMA 6-50P plug on the welder, and make your pigtails with 6-50R (female) ends rather than buying multiple locking female connectors. YMMV, but every time I go to buy a locking connector I choke on the price, and it's not like you're going to be dragging the welder around by its tail.

As Oscar mentioned, you might want to consider wiring in a 50A circuit vice 30A while you're doing it. Bigger wire will cost a bit more, but you can than plug in most any welder in the future. Not essential, but a good idea if you think you might ever use a non-inverter type welder some day. You can still use #10 SJO/SJOW for the pigtails. The "standard" welder receptacle is 50 amps, but of course is not required for the Dynasty 200.

One other comment--our resident Miller tech Cruizer recommends replacing the strain relief on the cord where it goes into the Dynasty 200; says it is so tight it sometimes crimps the conductors together. I haven't done mine yet, but intend to. And, to help prevent potentially very costly failures, it's a good idea to take the cover off the welder and make sure the internal connections to the weld output terminals on the front panel are good and tight. Do not go poking around the circuit cards; they are potentially sensitive to static electricity which may come from your body, and you won't like the cost of a new board. :-)

If we haven't explained it all yet, just keep asking. Lots of smart and experienced people here.

Think this might be the thread you are looking for on "strain reliefs"

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/forum/welding-discussions/34656-miller-tig-inverters-fail-often

[Aeronca41]

Think this might be the thread you are looking for on "strain reliefs"

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ers-fail-often

That's the one. I just didn't have time to look for it. Still trying to get time to look at Sync 300 schematic for Bestwskier. Thanks!

[target4fun]

The locking female didnt look too bad. 30 bucks at home depot. Assuming this one works but it looks like it from what I can tell.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-P...-202039718-_-N

If it doesn't work i can return. 30 bucks isnt bad to me.

Just found this: 20 bucks and free shipping if i buy 2 or more...

https://jet.com/product/detail/6c21be48c8744e4783daaa3aaf1b151a?jcmp=pla:ggl:a_nj_dur_gen_hardware_a3_b1:power_electrical_supplies_extension_cord_accessories_a3_other:na:PLA_648318209_30261912742_pla-166452479580:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&gclid=CKHLgtOQ7NACFeIcMgodRAYNOA&gclsrc=ds

[Aeronca41]

Not as bad as I feared. Go for it.

[Auto_Tech]

You mentioned "heavy industrial use" so I'm not sure if you've considered future growth options. It's almost as easy to run 6/3 (55A) as it is 10/2 (30A) keeping your options open later. Price difference between the two is approx $2/ft. Stripping is a bit more complicated but there are several "automatic" wire strippers out there (e.g Irwin, Greenlee, etc) that get the job done.