Miller Syncrowave 250 has no remote output.

[Rob1488]

My syncrowave serial number kk302232, stick welds great, I can scratch start tig, but when I try to use the remote It doesn't work on dc high freq. start or continuous ac. I am putting the amperage switch to remote and output contactor switch to remote. also ive noticed that the gas valve doesn't turn on unless I'm using it on remote contactor and does not shut off. This machine is an old machine but new to me, and replaced my dialarc, because my dialarc didn't have high freq. There is a relay that buzzes sometimes when you turn the machine on, and will quit after ive stick welded for a while - it is the forth relay on the right, on page 74 of the tech manual figure 10-5 item #3. I'm not sure if this is normal, but I also don't know what the function of this relay is, and looking at it you can see it sparking between contacts. I checked the 14 pin connection A and am getting 13 v dc. also the 120 outlet seems to be getting 60 v ac. I'm not to familiar with the electrical blueprints so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[H80N]

My syncrowave serial number kk302232, stick welds great, I can scratch start tig, but when I try to use the remote It doesn't work on dc high freq. start or continuous ac. I am putting the amperage switch to remote and output contactor switch to remote. also ive noticed that the gas valve doesn't turn on unless I'm using it on remote contactor and does not shut off. This machine is an old machine but new to me, and replaced my dialarc, because my dialarc didn't have high freq. There is a relay that buzzes sometimes when you turn the machine on, and will quit after ive stick welded for a while - it is the forth relay on the right, on page 74 of the tech manual figure 10-5 item #3. I'm not sure if this is normal, but I also don't know what the function of this relay is, and looking at it you can see it sparking between contacts. I checked the 14 pin connection A and am getting 13 v dc. also the 120 outlet seems to be getting 60 v ac. I'm not to familiar with the electrical blueprints so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Have you tried a different "known good" pedal...??

[Rob1488]

Ive tested the pedal. The a to b switch and also the potentiometer check out good. Ive jumped a to b at the 14 pin on the machine and dont get output at tig torch - using high frequency start or continuous, the second relay from the left will buzz when i step the pedal.

[Aeronca41]

Does your machine have the preflow and/or spot time options?

[Rob1488]

No just postflow and crater time.

[Rob1488]

Ok so I went back to basics and check my power oulet in the shop, checked good but at the machine I was only getting power at one leg of the 230, the male plug on the cord ended up being the problem, which I guess is why it only had 60v ac at the outlet on the machine, anyways put a new plug on the cord and the remote worked and high freq also. I am wondering if the machine running on 120 instead of 230 could have damaged anything. I did stick weld with it before I ever tried to use the remote.

[Aeronca41]

My guess-and someone can correct me if I'm wrong, is that you probably didn't hurt anything. Congrats on finding the problem.