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DialArc Vs Syncrowave 250 vs Dynasty 280 DX

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  • #16
    Originally posted by tarry99 View Post
    Thanks Guys for the responses....................Fusion ......you wrote: "It has tons of features if you can work the software" Just how hard is it to teach an Old Dog New Tricks? ..........I mean I can learn and all ............but playing with the machine for months while learning how to use it is not what I had in mind............Can I not just use the "Pro Set" feature and then tweak from there when some advanced programming needs may be required?

    I have a feeling that after welding most of my welding life with the Dialarc ( Land Line ) that anything that comes out of the Dynasty 280 DX will properly put a big grin on my face.............

    So what about Noise on the Dynasty...............ear plugs ? or comparable to the Dialarc? I mean the Dialarc and the Bernard cooler are in no way quiet.........

    And the remote Pedal...........is that a maintenance nightmare or worth the extra $$$ ............I've been dragging around the old Miller RFC-23a for years so I'm OK with the lines if the remote is an issue?

    Torch size...........I love the WP-20 sized torch........Having never used anything larger do you think that is an issue and will all the old gas lenses components work or do I have to start over?
    If you have a lot of newer style electronic devices in you home, and you work them yourself, then you will pick up on the software very easily.
    Default ("Pro Set") is great for starters. You can go from there. You won't have to worry about "playing" with it for months tho.......you'll be playing with it for LIFE!!!!
    The new cooler is quieter than the older 200 cooler. The fan on the 280 itself is a bit louder (but better and operates impressively)
    You might wanna get the remote pedal, we did. It's the only pedal we have anymore. It is great to quickly test for problems with other corded remotes. Since we only have the one, I can say it has been good for us and works fine. I find the pedal way too constrictive to lay nice welds in various places. We promote the "east-west" style fingertip controller, and train our employees to use it as well. Once you force yourself to become proficient with it, the pedal will simply collect dust.
    20 series torches are what we use along with the stubby style gas lenses. Usually #6 and #7 on aluminum.
    Anywhere you cheap out you are gonna cuss if you use this stuff to make a living.
    HTH
    Garry

    www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
    Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
    MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
    Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
    Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

    Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
    Miller 30-A Spoolgun
    Miller WC-115-A
    Miller Spectrum 300
    Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
    Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

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    • #17
      Originally posted by FusionKing View Post

      If you have a lot of newer style electronic devices in you home, and you work them yourself, then you will pick up on the software very easily.
      Default ("Pro Set") is great for starters. You can go from there. You won't have to worry about "playing" with it for months tho.......you'll be playing with it for LIFE!!!!
      The new cooler is quieter than the older 200 cooler. The fan on the 280 itself is a bit louder (but better and operates impressively)
      You might wanna get the remote pedal, we did. It's the only pedal we have anymore. It is great to quickly test for problems with other corded remotes. Since we only have the one, I can say it has been good for us and works fine. I find the pedal way too constrictive to lay nice welds in various places. We promote the "east-west" style fingertip controller, and train our employees to use it as well. Once you force yourself to become proficient with it, the pedal will simply collect dust.
      20 series torches are what we use along with the stubby style gas lenses. Usually #6 and #7 on aluminum.
      Anywhere you cheap out you are gonna cuss if you use this stuff to make a living.
      HTH
      Garry
      I should have the parts I need for my Old Dialarc here in a few days...........the good news is my son-in law wants it for his shop and on Friday FED-X should be delivering my new Dynasty 280DX package w/ wireless foot control..........So back to school I go learning the new techniques of a much more advanced welder.......I'm OK with that and enjoy the education..........Make a living off this? "Nope".......but does support the Racing of which I do take Seriously. I'll take a look at that fingertip torch you mentioned , although I'm not crawling around under these things anymore so I think the pedal will be just fine..........I did find out , the supplied W-280 size torch is the same size as my old WP-20 and uses the same parts........so that's good news..

      Thanks again Garry for your input ...........and sharing some of that beautiful work you folks do. I especially liked what looked like some out drive struts that you rebuild.........Nice stuff

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      • #18
        New 280 DX by Friday! You are the envy of many people here! Please post your thoughts and experiences when you have that sweet thing running.

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        • #19
          Am I the only one that doesn't get to eat lunch with the cool kids here? <br />
          <br />
          ...me and my old junk....

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
            Am I the only one that doesn't get to eat lunch with the cool kids here? <br />
            <br />
            ...me and my old junk....
            Then again.....

            you do have that Invertig 221 AC/DC Inverter Welder ......

            which is not exactly an antique slouch in the TIG dept.......................

            BTW...when are you guys gonna run that Ranchero in the standing mile...???

            http://ecta-lsr.net/

            http://standingmile.com/

            I want to see it break the 200mph mark......
            Last edited by H80N; 08-17-2016, 09:58 AM.
            .

            *******************************************
            The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

            “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

            Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

            My Blue Stuff:
            Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
            Dynasty 200DX
            Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
            Millermatic 200

            TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
              Am I the only one that doesn't get to eat lunch with the cool kids here? <br />
              <br />
              ...me and my old junk....

              I'll swap you my 61-F for Helga, then you will REALLY be at the bottom of the totem pole.

              P.S. I meant "plate of spaghetti" in a nice way.


              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
                New 280 DX by Friday! You are the envy of many people here! Please post your thoughts and experiences when you have that sweet thing running.
                I'll do that .............but for right now I want to get the right Contactor for my old Dialarc........seems what I just got sent from a friend is different in the way it mounts........is the mounting base for these 60 Amp 3 pole 120 v coil Contactors standard or does it vary between manufactures? I mean I can make it fit but would like to keep it all looking original..............What say You?

                Cruizer: In a previous thread I asked about disconnecting the PF in my DialArc and You wrote : "Merely disconnect the power factor caps, unless your using the machine 12 hours a day, the PF's are useless" ..........Question ? What am I looking for inside this Box?


                Pictures of the Contactor that I just pulled:

                Comment


                • #23
                  Mounting is sometimes the same, sometimes close-I have never run into a wildly diff config but I suppose it's possible. On a machine that old finding the exact same mounting may be difficult. If you don't want to drill new holes in the machine so it stays original, you could make up an adapter plate using countersink head rivets and/or screws (flathead).

                  one thing that does make mounting very different is if the replacement is for DIN rail mounting. DIN rail has a "top hat" cross section for which components are made to fit; they snap on to the rail. But those components often have provision for screw mounting also.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Well I guess my maxstar isn't old junk either...I just like to hear my stuff run I guess. <br />
                    <br />
                    The Bamchero...was going back to drag week, but we found some serious trouble with the rear end, so we're considering other options. <br />
                    <br />
                    No offense taken to the sketty comment, I took it as the highest of compliments. <br />
                    <br />
                    I think tinkering with your old gear is cool. The more I tinker, the more I learn, the more I want to tinker.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
                      Mounting is sometimes the same, sometimes close-I have never run into a wildly diff config but I suppose it's possible. On a machine that old finding the exact same mounting may be difficult. If you don't want to drill new holes in the machine so it stays original, you could make up an adapter plate using countersink head rivets and/or screws (flathead).

                      one thing that does make mounting very different is if the replacement is for DIN rail mounting. DIN rail has a "top hat" cross section for which components are made to fit; they snap on to the rail. But those components often have provision for screw mounting also.
                      I took the old switch apart and 2 of 6 contacts looked hardly used , on the other 4 another pair had moderate wear with some blackening and the final 2 had some pretty good divets in the surface and also blackening.................refinished all 6 contacts and stuck the Contactor back in and Walla she runs again!............How About That?................

                      Still going to call around tomorrow and see if I can find something that fits better , since this machine is going to my son-in-law.....but at least it seems to confirm that was the issue.

                      Question: This calls out a need for a 60 Amp Contactor......will something in a higher amperage rating work OK.......like a 75 or 90?
                      Still need to hear back from Cruizer on where those Power Factor Caps are and what they look like.

                      Thanks Guys!
                      Last edited by tarry99; 08-18-2016, 08:51 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Yes on the larger ampacity contacts-just don't go smaller.

                        Cruizer has been pretty busy lately.

                        disabling PF correction should be as simple as disconnecting a wire and insulating it well so it won't short out. will try to ID tomorrow unless Cruizer shows up sooner.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                          The Bamchero...was going back to drag week, but we found some serious trouble with the rear end, so we're considering other options. <br />
                          <br />
                          .
                          Ryan

                          you might look at the dif from a late model COP Crown Vic....... mounts different... but they have BIG disk brakes.............

                          .

                          *******************************************
                          The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                          “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                          Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                          My Blue Stuff:
                          Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                          Dynasty 200DX
                          Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                          Millermatic 200

                          TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
                            Yes on the larger ampacity contacts-just don't go smaller.

                            Cruizer has been pretty busy lately.

                            disabling PF correction should be as simple as disconnecting a wire and insulating it well so it won't short out. will try to ID tomorrow unless Cruizer shows up sooner.
                            To disable PF correction, look at page 32 of OM-315D, which should be the manual for your serial no. Find item #10, which is a set of two capacitors tied together under one mounting band. Unplug the welder and find the caps. Short across the two terminals of each cap with a well-insulated tool like a screwdriver with a dry PLASTIC handle-don't touch the metal on the screwdriver while doing this. Then, Disconnect the wires going to the caps and insulate the disconnected ends well. Do NOT connect any wires together that are not already connected together. Good insulation is required-these will be hot wires hanging around in your machine-don't just put a wrap of electrical tape on them and forget it. I would suggest several wraps of rubber electrical splicing tape (the kind with the peel-off back) followed by a number of wraps of everyday plastic electrical tape, then tie them somewhere they will be safe. If any doubts ask more questions. Remember, welder unplugged, not just turned off.
                            Last edited by Aeronca41; 08-18-2016, 09:59 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post

                              To disable PF correction, look at page 32 of OM-315D, which should be the manual for your serial no. Find item #10, which is a set of two capacitors tied together under one mounting band. Unplug the welder and find the caps. Short across the two terminals of each cap with a well-insulated tool like a screwdriver with a dry PLASTIC handle-don't touch the metal on the screwdriver while doing this. Then, Disconnect the wires going to the caps and insulate the disconnected ends well. Do NOT connect any wires together that are not already connected together. Good insulation is required-these will be hot wires hanging around in your machine-don't just put a wrap of electrical tape on them and forget it. I world suggest several wraps of rubber electrical splicing tape (the kind with the peel-off back) followed by a number of wraps of everyday plastic electrical tape, then tie them somewhere they will be safe. If any doubts ask more questions. Remember, welder unplugged, not just turned off.
                              Aero , I see Item #10 on Page #2 but don't see a page # 32 in my manual??did you mean Page #2?.............The Item I think your talking about is two long ( maybe 6-8 inches) Flat sided shaped Tubes with a metal clamp holding them both together?...........there up under the Fan in the rear of the machine and according to the parts list I have are part # 045-057 .............Is that correct?...........If so I'll discharge them first and then disconnect the wire and put some heat shrink around the loose wire ends.

                              Another question: For a replacement Contactor.........this fellow Weldmart Online , out of Cleveland ,Texas , anyone do business with them and are there parts OK?

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Sounds right. The two caps are together right near the fan, and that's the right shape. Here is the manual I'm looking at

                                https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O315P_MIL.pdf

                                -It's interesting that the file name in the URL is slightly diff from what's printed on the page.

                                - I would probably double the heat shrink just for good measure.

                                - Don't know a thing about Weldmart other than having heard the name but nothing more. Maybe other members have.

                                Hope my earlier post didn't sound like I was talking down - just not sure of your knowledge level and don't ever want anyone to get hurt.

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