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Purchased new Multimatic 215, have a question

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  • OscarJr
    replied
    Just got an answer from Kurt Smith at Miller. It's a no-go for E6010 on the MM 215.

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  • Miller Welders
    replied
    Originally posted by OscarJr View Post
    Does anyone know for a fact if the Millermatic 215 can burn 6010 stick electrodes?
    Hi, OscarJr.

    To confirm, the Multimatic 215 is not recommended for 6010 rods.

    Thank you!

    Leave a comment:


  • OscarJr
    replied
    Originally posted by aametalmaster View Post

    So did you look at page 32? 6011 is listed...Bob
    Yup. But that doesn't automatically mean that it will run 6010s. Such would be the case with cheap, small inverter stick machines. A lot of them can run 6011 great. Can't run 6010 worth a s&^#.

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  • aametalmaster
    replied
    Originally posted by OscarJr View Post

    Same thoughts here. It would be great if it could, that way I can use my TIG only for TIG, and use a MM215 for MIG/FC/Stick.
    So did you look at page 32? 6011 is listed...Bob

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  • OscarJr
    replied
    Originally posted by Bls repair View Post
    I though 6011 was the AC 6010?
    Same thoughts here. It would be great if it could, that way I can use my TIG only for TIG, and use a MM215 for MIG/FC/Stick.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bls repair
    replied
    I though 6011 was the AC 6010?

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  • aametalmaster
    replied
    Some guys run them on AC for less arc blow...Bob

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  • OscarJr
    replied
    Originally posted by aametalmaster View Post
    https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow...72989A_MIL.pdf page 32. My vote is NO 6010. No AC...Bob
    I'm confused. Which 6010s run on AC?

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  • aametalmaster
    replied
    https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow...72989A_MIL.pdf page 32. My vote is NO 6010. No AC...Bob
    Last edited by aametalmaster; 08-14-2016, 01:23 PM.

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  • OscarJr
    replied
    Does anyone know for a fact if the Millermatic 215 can burn 6010 stick electrodes?

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    The MIG basics are distilled in this booklet

    https://www.millerwelds.com/~/media/...g_handbook.pdf

    Leave a comment:


  • OscarJr
    replied
    Kinda takes some trial and error to setup the spool. I set the nylock nut tight enough that it just barely begins to freewheel backwards after the motor stops tugging on the wire. In other words, I use the absolute bare minimum on the spool just before it self-destructs by completely unraveling itself.

    I like to keep the contact tip to work distance to 3/8. 1/2" is ok, but I like the hotter burning characteristic of a 3/8" stickout for a given set of welder settings.
    Last edited by OscarJr; 08-08-2016, 05:33 PM.

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  • aametalmaster
    replied
    Yup what Meltedmetal said. Nice machine. I have one sitting on my desk...Bob

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  • Meltedmetal
    replied
    You'll probably get better answers than mine but the spool should be just barely tight enough that the spool will not "freewheel". The idea is to prevent the spool from unwinding loosely after a tug from the feed motor. If it does freewheel then the loose wire can cross and jam causing intermittent or no wire feed. It should not be so tight as to make the feed motor labor to pull the wire off the spool.

    Leave a comment:


  • pnw215
    started a topic Purchased new Multimatic 215, have a question

    Purchased new Multimatic 215, have a question

    I just purchased my first ever welder, and hopefully my last. I have wanted one forever and a day, and settled upon the aforementioned Multimatic 215. Originally I had intended to purchase the Millermatic 211 but happened upon this one and even though it's a new product, took a gamble. I will be using it for repair of equipment as well as future projects. I have already welded the bucket of my tractor which had fallen into disrepair and was in desperate need of attention (mig function-Argon/co2). It just saved me at least $200 (the cost of loading it onto my trailer and taking it to a professional welder). The welder will pay for itself over time.

    While my welding skills are at a beginner level right now, I did a lot of reading and watched some Youtube videos to prepare myself for the tractor work. It went well, and the welds, while not the prettiest in the world, penetrated well and will hold just fine. I plan on practicing on some scrap metal before I do any fab work. My biggest issue is speed, and the correct angle and distance from the gun to the workpiece.

    I only had one issue with the welder that I am unsure of- how tight should the spool be? The instructions are not very clear, and I think I tightened it too much. I had an issue with burn back and the wire slipping. This was with the tensioner on 2. I stopped welding and fed the wire onto a piece of wood and it was only feeding intermittently, and the motor sounded like it was struggling. I left the tension on 2 and loosened the spool a few turns and it seemed to feed smoothly, but I am somewhat confused as to how loose the spool should be. At first, I tightened it to where I had to squeeze it tight with my hand to turn it. It is looser now, but with fairly strong hands I really am at a loss as to what's "right." I am worried about hurting the motor. Thanks in advance for any info.

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