My 225D runs fine but no weld output or AC output. Worked fine a week ago. I pulled it out the shop fired it up and no spark... I pulled the covers and don't see anything out of the ordinary. I checked fuses, connections, slip ring, and lead continuity. The only thing that I found that looked bad was the R2 resistor clamp was loose. I secured it but still no output. Three questions, does anyone have an idea what may be wrong. Where can I find a repair Manual for this machine?. I have the Owner's Manual that I down loaded from the Miller website some time back? Where can I buy Miller parts at a reasonable price. I bought an air pre-cleaner and muffler recently from my local dealer and had to re-mortgage my house...
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1995 Miller 225D Deutz diesel - No weld output
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Originally posted by pwellington View PostMy 225D runs fine but no weld output or AC output. Worked fine a week ago. I pulled it out the shop fired it up and no spark... I pulled the covers and don't see anything out of the ordinary. I checked fuses, connections, slip ring, and lead continuity. The only thing that I found that looked bad was the R2 resistor clamp was loose. I secured it but still no output. Three questions, does anyone have an idea what may be wrong. Where can I find a repair Manual for this machine?. I have the Owner's Manual that I down loaded from the Miller website some time back? Where can I buy Miller parts at a reasonable price. I bought an air pre-cleaner and muffler recently from my local dealer and had to re-mortgage my house...
For DEUTZ engine parts
Engine should be a deutz ruggerini diesel md151 (am guessing)
here is the manual it will give you part numbers
http://www.dieselbike.net/manuals/Ru...ual_MD_191.pdf
then call these guys
http://www.deutzpartsdirect.com/t/De...e-Engine-Parts
Last edited by H80N; 07-23-2016, 03:56 PM..
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pw, You haven't listed your machine's SN so we can be looking at the same wiring diagram that you would be but have you checked for a failed flashing rectifier SR3? Use your wiring diagram to help identify it if you don't already know what/where it is. Also check for corroded connections at same.
If it hasn't failed and all connections are good, you should have battery voltage across the rotor brush leads with the unit running. No battery voltage would make me suspect a failed open SR3 (or failed fuse F2 depending on specific unit SN).
Battery voltage at the brushes but nothing more would make me suspect a failed bridge rectifier SR2 or failed fuse F1.
MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
Syncrowave 180 SD
Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
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The SN is KE579638. The F2 fuse is good. I am not certain how to text the SR3 however I juice to the + side of the SR3 form F2. I pulled the SR3 and checked for signs of a short (melted, bulged, burnt smell) and didn't see any. Thanks for your help. Should I just replace the SR3 and SR2 just for good measure?,
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Postmortem on my no weld output problem.
I have the welder up and running. As it turns out both duaneb55 and Aeronca41 provided the insight that I needed.
My R2 was faulty in addition to the strap being corroded. When Aeronca41 wrote that the R2 “resistor feeds current through the brushes to the rotating field. No field current = no weld, no outlet power” it caused me to go back and take another look. I removed the R2 and found that the back side was blistered and the coils were burned up to the point where the strap attached. Duaneb55 wrote in another posting that the R2 could work from either end. So I fabricated a new strap, cleaned up the R2 and connected it from the unused end. Now everything works fine… Thank you, thank you, thank you….
When I reinstalled the R2 I guessed at the proper position for the strap based on a measurement of its previous location. How do I adjust the it for optimum performance?
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Originally posted by pwellington View PostWhen I reinstalled the R2 I guessed at the proper position for the strap based on a measurement of its previous location. How do I adjust the it for optimum performance?
You adjust the R2 strap position (engine off) to achieve spec OCV (Open Circuit Voltage) at the weld output studs.
Your machine specs +/-10% are:
DC/CC = 56/69V @ Min./Max. Fine Voltage setting
DC/CV = 26/32V @ Min./Max. Fine Voltage setting
MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
Syncrowave 180 SD
Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
*Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
*HF-251D-1
*WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
PakMaster 100XL
Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110
http://www.millerwelds.com/images/sm...rolleyes.png?2
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