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1995 Miller 225D Deutz diesel - No weld output

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  • 1995 Miller 225D Deutz diesel - No weld output

    My 225D runs fine but no weld output or AC output. Worked fine a week ago. I pulled it out the shop fired it up and no spark... I pulled the covers and don't see anything out of the ordinary. I checked fuses, connections, slip ring, and lead continuity. The only thing that I found that looked bad was the R2 resistor clamp was loose. I secured it but still no output. Three questions, does anyone have an idea what may be wrong. Where can I find a repair Manual for this machine?. I have the Owner's Manual that I down loaded from the Miller website some time back? Where can I buy Miller parts at a reasonable price. I bought an air pre-cleaner and muffler recently from my local dealer and had to re-mortgage my house...

  • #2
    Originally posted by pwellington View Post
    My 225D runs fine but no weld output or AC output. Worked fine a week ago. I pulled it out the shop fired it up and no spark... I pulled the covers and don't see anything out of the ordinary. I checked fuses, connections, slip ring, and lead continuity. The only thing that I found that looked bad was the R2 resistor clamp was loose. I secured it but still no output. Three questions, does anyone have an idea what may be wrong. Where can I find a repair Manual for this machine?. I have the Owner's Manual that I down loaded from the Miller website some time back? Where can I buy Miller parts at a reasonable price. I bought an air pre-cleaner and muffler recently from my local dealer and had to re-mortgage my house...
    These guys are pretty decent on MILLER parts

    http://miller4less.com/



    For DEUTZ engine parts

    Engine should be a deutz ruggerini diesel md151 (am guessing)

    here is the manual it will give you part numbers

    http://www.dieselbike.net/manuals/Ru...ual_MD_191.pdf

    then call these guys

    http://www.deutzpartsdirect.com/t/De...e-Engine-Parts

    Last edited by H80N; 07-23-2016, 03:56 PM.
    .

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    • #3
      pw, You haven't listed your machine's SN so we can be looking at the same wiring diagram that you would be but have you checked for a failed flashing rectifier SR3? Use your wiring diagram to help identify it if you don't already know what/where it is. Also check for corroded connections at same.

      If it hasn't failed and all connections are good, you should have battery voltage across the rotor brush leads with the unit running. No battery voltage would make me suspect a failed open SR3 (or failed fuse F2 depending on specific unit SN).

      Battery voltage at the brushes but nothing more would make me suspect a failed bridge rectifier SR2 or failed fuse F1.
      MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
      Syncrowave 180 SD
      Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
      *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
      *HF-251D-1
      *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
      PakMaster 100XL
      Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110
      http://www.millerwelds.com/images/sm...rolleyes.png?2

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      • #4
        The SN is KE579638. The F2 fuse is good. I am not certain how to text the SR3 however I juice to the + side of the SR3 form F2. I pulled the SR3 and checked for signs of a short (melted, bulged, burnt smell) and didn't see any. Thanks for your help. Should I just replace the SR3 and SR2 just for good measure?,

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        • #5
          If the R2 clamp isn't making good contact will that cause my problem?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by pwellington View Post
            If the R2 clamp isn't making good contact will that cause my problem?
            Could very well-that resistor feeds current through the brushes to the rotating field. No field current = no weld, no outlet power.

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            • #7
              Postmortem on my no weld output problem.

              I have the welder up and running. As it turns out both duaneb55 and Aeronca41 provided the insight that I needed.

              My R2 was faulty in addition to
              the strap being corroded. When Aeronca41 wrote that the R2 “resistor feeds current through the brushes to the rotating field. No field current = no weld, no outlet power” it caused me to go back and take another look. I removed the R2 and found that the back side was blistered and the coils were burned up to the point where the strap attached. Duaneb55 wrote in another posting that the R2 could work from either end. So I fabricated a new strap, cleaned up the R2 and connected it from the unused end. Now everything works fine… Thank you, thank you, thank you….

              When I reinstalled the R2 I guessed at the proper position for the strap based on a measurement of its previous location. How do I adjust the it for optimum performance?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by pwellington View Post
                When I reinstalled the R2 I guessed at the proper position for the strap based on a measurement of its previous location. How do I adjust the it for optimum performance?
                Good job on the find and fix.

                You adjust the R2 strap position (engine off) to achieve spec OCV (Open Circuit Voltage) at the weld output studs.

                Your machine specs +/-10% are:
                DC/CC = 56/69V @ Min./Max. Fine Voltage setting
                DC/CV = 26/32V @ Min./Max. Fine Voltage setting
                MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
                Syncrowave 180 SD
                Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
                *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
                *HF-251D-1
                *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
                PakMaster 100XL
                Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110
                http://www.millerwelds.com/images/sm...rolleyes.png?2

                Comment


                • #9
                  Nice work! I just love free fixes!

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