Older Miller lectro spot model 11 spot welder

[miller_130xp]

I have an older miller spot welder with the timer build into the body of the welder. Does anyone have a manual for this?

[H80N]

I have an older miller spot welder with the timer build into the body of the welder. Does anyone have a manual for this?

Try here

https://www.millerwelds.com/support/manuals-and-parts

If you cannot find it there... try calling them...

Miller Literature Department - 920-735-4356 or 1-800-4-A-Miller (1-800-426-4553).

[H80N]

FWIW.... many of those old spotters used a Gainger-Dayton spring wound timer...

like this



https://www.grainger.com/category/sp...ecatalog/N-qgj

The timers needed replacement about every 25 years or so...

other than that... not much to go wrong.... tips would eventually wear out... but are replaceable...

power cords would rot from old age.... also an easy fix....

They are very simple

I believe the "Model 11" to be from the late 1950s early 1960s...... just a guess

What seems to be the trouble...??

[miller_130xp]

The timer operates on cycles. I'm not sure if it is the same timer you posted above.

I called literature and they are going to look for the manual on microfilm as the manual is not posted on line.

The machine is rather old. I ran a test spot weld and did not get a good weld with new tongs. I would like to know what I need to do to clean it up and get it working at top performance.

[H80N]

The timer operates on cycles. I'm not sure if it is the same timer you posted above.

I called literature and they are going to look for the manual on microfilm as the manual is not posted on line.

The machine is rather old. I ran a test spot weld and did not get a good weld with new tongs. I would like to know what I need to do to clean it up and get it working at top performance.

I would start with the contact tips....

They should be cleaned and dressed to look something like this... or if worn out ...replaced

The tapered tip with small contact area concentrates the heat

[miller_130xp]

This older welder uses vacuum tubes. Is that preferred?

[H80N]

This older welder uses vacuum tubes. Is that preferred?

vacuum tubes...??

PICS pls

the only place I could envision tubes there would be in the timer

[miller_130xp]

http://docdro.id/G2Jc7se

Here is a link to the manual that mentions the two vacuum tubes in the timer.

[H80N]

http://docdro.id/G2Jc7se

Here is a link to the manual that mentions the two vacuum tubes in the timer.

Nothing the matter with vacuum tubes

Both 6C4 Triode & 2D21 Thyratron tubes are still widely available.... but I would buy a few spares while they are...

Download and print that manual.....

[Miller Kevin]

miller_130xp

I have a pdf of the manual for this unit but it is to big to post here so I would need to e-mail it. Please PM or e-mail me if you want it sent.

[email protected]

Kevin .

[miller_130xp]

I'm not getting a good weld on test sheet metal. The tongs are brand new Millers as are the tips. The sockets for the tongs are copper and have tarnish. Perhaps I need to clean the sockets to get a good connection? I have it plugged in with no extension cord..

[H80N]

I'm not getting a good weld on test sheet metal. The tongs are brand new Millers as are the tips. The sockets for the tongs are copper and have tarnish. Perhaps I need to clean the sockets to get a good connection? I have it plugged in with no extension cord..

How clean is the sheetmetal you are spotting...??... should at least be clean and ideally shiny to spotweld

For the sockets....could clean off the copper tarnish with some Lime-Away or CLR....(citric acid)... on a Q-Tip

then wiped off with a few Q-Tips with clear water... then dried off

[miller_130xp]

The test sheet metal is brand new. I used some emery cloth to make it shine. I also used some clamps to hold the metal together

Should I open the internals to clean things?.

[miller_130xp]

could it be that I need to replace the tubes?

[Aeronca41]

The tubes are not in the weld circuit directly-all they do is determine how long the contactor is energized to turn on the weld current. So, if the contactor (CR1) is clicking closed when you try to weld, the tubes must be OK. You've already addressed the secondary side of the weld circuit by cleaning up the tips and their connections. The only thing in the primary weld circuit is the plug, trigger switch, transformer, and the contactor. The only parts subject to wear are the contactor and trigger switch. I'm guessing the contacts may be worn or dirty on the contactor and not passing full current to the welding transformer primary. I suppose if one of the tubes is weak, the contactor may not pull in as sharply as it should; if so, that could in turn damage the contacts. I'd look hard at the contactor itself first. Also verify good connections everywhere.