Rebuilding an AEAD-200LE

[SteveM]

Hi Guys

This is my first visit to this site. I'm new to welding, new to portable welders, new to Miller products.

I was just given a Miller AEAD-200LE. It has been in storage about 12 years.

"It was running good the last time I used it"...Have you ever heard those words?

It has an ONAN B48M-GA18/4107A engine on it.

There is about 1/2" of rust in the gas tank.

Can you tell me a little about the machine and the engine?
Is there a drop in replacement engine (if I find this one beyond repair)?
Where would I find a fuel tank?
What might I expect to need for the generator?

Steve

[tackit]

I had two of them, great maintenance welding machines, but if your running long leads get the biggest you can put on it.. Try putting some fish tank stone in the the tank or anything hard with edges and shake the **** out it... then put some good rust remover in the tank and see what happens. They make gas tank liner products that could help the tank from rusting again.

And remember, all gas nowadays has alcohol in it which draws moisture.... so don't let the fuel set in the tank for more than 90 days.

Heres what I put in my mower gas and yard maintenance machines.

http://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-tr...th-stabilizers

[Aeronca41]

We now have sevaral gas stations in upstate NY /Twin Tiers area that have ethanol-free premium. Costs a little more but it's all I put in my Trailblazer and my other small engines, as well as my bucket truck (which sits around a lot). Look around and see if you can find any in your area.

[SteveM]

Yes, I use ethanol free in anything that sits for more than a week at a time. And I know a thing or two about ethanol.

[H80N]

Just for Gee Whiz. I would pull the spark plugs & douse the bores with PB-Blast (+ maybe a little Kano Kreen if you have it)

Let it sit for a few days.... then gently rock the flywheel.... see if you can free it...

Have seen a few that looked terminal freed up that way... those old engines are tough

Only Then would I worry about the carb and gas tank

PLS post the WELDER serial number as well (so we can download the correct version welder manual)

BTW.... Here is the link to download the Engine Service manual PDF....

http://michaelstractors.com/forum/up...e%20Manual.pdf

[SteveM]

Thanks H80N.
The flywheel moves. I went ahead and squirted the cylinders with PB-Blast. Just to give them some lube. The plugs looked good too.
I pulled the tank off. I'd rather throw it away, if I can get a new one. I will pick up some fuel hose this week end.

The welder serial number is JF946314. Can anyone interpret those?

I downloaded the engine service manual from the link you gave me. I ALMOST sent it to the printer before I noticed it is 350 pages. I'll look and see what I need to print.

[H80N]

Thanks H80N.
The flywheel moves. I went ahead and squirted the cylinders with PB-Blast. Just to give them some lube. The plugs looked good too.
I pulled the tank off. I'd rather throw it away, if I can get a new one. I will pick up some fuel hose this week end.

The welder serial number is JF946314. Can anyone interpret those?

I downloaded the engine service manual from the link you gave me. I ALMOST sent it to the printer before I noticed it is 350 pages. I'll look and see what I need to print.

We have seen this before... that tank is SCARY EXPENSIVE.... 015670 [1/PK] TANK,FUEL $492.32


http://miller4less.com/product_info....ducts_id=55765.

Soooooooooo.... you might consider rehabbing your existing tank or adapting a substitute....

[H80N]

The welder serial number is JF946314. Can anyone interpret those?
.

Here is the manual that matches your serial#

https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O411P_MIL.pdf

[aametalmaster]

We have seen this before... that tank is SCARY EXPENSIVE.... 015670 [1/PK] TANK,FUEL $492.32


http://miller4less.com/product_info....ducts_id=55765.

Soooooooooo.... you might consider rehabbing your existing tank or adapting a substitute....

That's a great price. I can't touch anywhere near that cost...Bob

[SteveM]

$500 !!!!

<cough> <cough>

OK. Step one is get the engine running with a separate tank. If successful, I can fab a tank, or have this one coated.

[Bls repair]

Mechanic at work took his tank to a radiator repair shop to have it cleaned and coated inside

[SteveM]

Mechanic at work took his tank to a radiator repair shop to have it cleaned and coated inside

I was thinking the same thing. I'll try it.

As an update, I didn't get much time this weekend. I rolled it over and it seems to have good compression. And I pressure washed it. I will begin the teardown next weekend.
I'll spend some time this week looking over the manual.

[H80N]

If it were mine...... I would get it running and test it operationally... LONG Before I thought about pressure washing it or tearing it down

Would also change oil (and filter if it has one) "Rotella T" would be my choice for oil...... get rid of that stuff that has been sitting in the crankcase the last 12 years

[SteveM]

If it were mine...... I would get it running and test it operationally... LONG Before I thought about pressure washing it or tearing it down

Would also change oil (and filter if it has one) "Rotella T" would be my choice for oil...... get rid of that stuff that has been sitting in the crankcase the last 12 years

Understood... But it was NASTY. I'm thinking it has a seal leak. I mostly cleaned the cart and battery box. I have the oil (Rotella T)

Has anyone cross referenced the oil filter to Fram or Wix or such?

[H80N]

Understood... But it was NASTY. I'm thinking it has a seal leak. I mostly cleaned the cart and battery box. I have the oil (Rotella T)

Has anyone cross referenced the oil filter to Fram or Wix or such?

the ONAN number that I found was 122-0645 (For the ONAN B48M)

and it crosses to a NAPA Gold (Wix) FIL 1348MP

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/s...Interchange=on

But pls doublecheck

IMHO the Napa Wix is a better filter than the Fram