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1980 Trailblazer 44D service manual available

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  • Miklos
    replied
    The first photo is off my welder. Inside panel where welding leads hook up. There is one similar in the owners manual

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  • cledford
    replied
    @miklos <br />
    Thanks for the pics, couldn't tell much from the last 2 pics, the first pic would be very helpful but its hard to read. Where did it come from and maybe I could find it.

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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    Outstanding! Glad you had the background to dig in and fix it. Ya gotta love it when you can save a perfectly good machine from the scrap pile for little or no cost. Of course that tends to result in bringing home more "deals" than you reasonably need.....thankfully I have a very understanding wife..but even being retired, I have more projects than time. Then too, I'm a bit slower in the late 60's than I was 30 years ago. :-)

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  • Miklos
    replied
    Aeronca41. Thanks for your help. It was the CR3 relay. Bad coil. So I took wire #107 and stuck it on the NC terminal. Welds great now. Both on AC and DC. Glad I didn't let the PO scrap it

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  • Miklos
    replied
    Connections for gas etc.

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  • Miklos
    replied
    Faceplate. It's pretty faded. The dial on the left is the amp range. Dial on the right is the fine amperage setting. The toggle switch below the fine amperage setting is idle and Weld power switch. The controls below the gauges are for the remote.

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  • Miklos
    replied
    Hope this helps

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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    You can get a manual with pictures at this link

    https://www.millerwelds.com/support/manuals-and-parts

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  • cledford
    replied
    @Miklos,
    Well the problem is all the decals for the switches are worn/faded off. I really need a pic of the front panel and the tig panel if anybody has that. Or if yours is still readable pictures would be much appreciated!

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  • Miklos
    replied
    The settings are in the owners manual. The switches are under the panel where the terminals are

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  • cledford
    replied
    I have what I believe to be the same welder. Has anybody done any tig with it? I have the torch and gas set up, but I believe I just don't have all the switches in the right position.

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  • Miklos
    replied
    I will check all that. Thanks

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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    To simplify troubleshooting, I would stick with AC on the polarity switch, and would take a look at contactors CR3 and W and their wiring and controls next. Looks like CR3 turns on W so either being a bit flaky could be the problem. See if they're mechanically pulling in solidly when they should and check the contacts for crud. Could be there is debris in the contactors that is preventing them from "making" consistently or correctly. I would also be sure the brushes are not intermittently sticking in their holders. Seems to me if it's making AC power OK the brushes should be OK but I don't know if poor brush contact might affect welding but not power. Seems unlikely but I certainly don't have enough hands-on welder fixing experience to say for certain. The left brush on the schematic is suspect if the contactors aren't pulling in. Also, check the 120/240 volt jumper connections and associated wiring to make sure they're tight and clean. You may have already tried all this stuff but it's where I would look next.

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  • Miklos
    replied
    Yes,. All of the above. The switch is in standard position but I need to verify connection is good when flipping it back and forth. AC mode is the only way I get any arc out of it at all. I finally was able to run a bead with it. Shut it down to run and get more rod. When I started it back up, just arced once and that was it.

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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    Cruizer and Duane are Real welder techs-I'm just a retired Systems Engineer with a lot of years of fixing stuff along the way so will try to help. If Cruizer or Duane or one of the other gurus joins the thread, by all means ignore me! Assume you are trying to stick weld (SMAW). Basics first-have you tried various positions of coarse and fine current controls and the polarity switch? A bad contact on a switch could be the problem-or maybe you've already checked that stuff. Remote/standard switch in Standard position? Have you tried welding on AC? That removes a significant number of parts from the circuit. Is the Process switch set to SMAW? What all have you tried?

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