I was setting the points on my sync 250 and they keep going back to the same place as soon as I tighten the set screw. I removed the set screw and found it to be the style with a needle point as opposed to a cup or flat point. Obviously the set screws are just falling into the divot from the previous setting. I moved all the points far enough to get away from the divots and am up and running again. My question is this. Would there be any harm in grinding the point off the set screws to make them a blunt point so I don't eventually fill the point body with divot holes making accurate adjustment impossible? I don't see how it could hurt, but maybe there is a reason for using the pointed set screw.
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Originally posted by burninbriar View PostI was setting the points on my sync 250 and they keep going back to the same place as soon as I tighten the set screw. I removed the set screw and found it to be the style with a needle point as opposed to a cup or flat point. Obviously the set screws are just falling into the divot from the previous setting. I moved all the points far enough to get away from the divots and am up and running again. My question is this. Would there be any harm in grinding the point off the set screws to make them a blunt point so I don't eventually fill the point body with divot holes making accurate adjustment impossible? I don't see how it could hurt, but maybe there is a reason for using the pointed set screw.
Blunting the setscrew tips is OK too.....
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The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”
Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...
My Blue Stuff:
Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
Dynasty 200DX
Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
Millermatic 200
TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000
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That is pretty much what I did, The wires need to be loosened to rotate them. I just moved all three sideways to find fresh material. I just thought a blunt point screw would prevent putting more divots in it.To all who contribute to this board.
My sincere thanks , Pete.
Pureox OA
Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
Miller Syncrowave 250
Hexacon 250 watt solder iron
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The reason I can think of for not using a blunt set screw would be if there is high degree of magnetism produced that would slide the points together without the divot hole to hold them. If the points came in direct contact, would that cause further damage. I don't know if any of that is true, but it could be a reason for not useing blunt point set screws.To all who contribute to this board.
My sincere thanks , Pete.
Pureox OA
Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
Miller Syncrowave 250
Hexacon 250 watt solder iron
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Originally posted by burninbriar View PostThe reason I can think of for not using a blunt set screw would be if there is high degree of magnetism produced that would slide the points together without the divot hole to hold them. If the points came in direct contact, would that cause further damage. I don't know if any of that is true, but it could be a reason for not useing blunt point set screws.
(Electromagnets use DC... DeGaussers use AC).
*******************************************
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”
Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...
My Blue Stuff:
Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
Dynasty 200DX
Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
Millermatic 200
TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000
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Thanks for the reply's, I might grind the screws next time the points need adjusted. The manual boldly warns about not filing or sanding the points but that is good advice.To all who contribute to this board.
My sincere thanks , Pete.
Pureox OA
Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
Miller Syncrowave 250
Hexacon 250 watt solder iron
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